DSP Wiring
 

Wiring diagram of the DSP amp, showing which wires go where and what each of the 3 connectors do.

Mines a Facelift 2004 model, 4.8, with widescreen satnav and subwoofer.

The pinouts for the 15 pin connector (X18771 - Black Connector) are:
PIN - CONNECTION
1- Sub 1 +
2- Sub 2 +
3- LH Rear loudspeaker - (Touring LH rear speaker ground) YELLOW
4- Radio on/antenna signal
5- RH rear loudspeaker + (Touring RH rear +) BROWN
6- Sub 4 -
7- Sub 3 -
8- Terminal 30 connects to Fuse 56
9- Sub 1 -
10- Sub 2 -
11- Touring LH rear + BROWN
12- Touring RH rear - BLUE
13- Sub 4 +
14- Sub 3 +
15- Terminal 31 connects to Ground Point


The pinouts for the 18 pin connector (X18772 - Black) are:
PIN - CONNECTION
1- Not used
2- Low freq. negative (-) signal - Transceiver/charging electronics
3- Not used
4- Not used
5- I-bus Signal Line - Splice X18344
6- Not used
7- Not used
8- RH front speaker - Connects to Radio
9- LH front speaker - Connects to Radio
10-Not used
11 Low freq. voltage (+) signal - Transceiver/charging electronics
12-Not used
13-Telephone mute signal - Transceiver/charging electronics
14-Not used
15-Telephone ON signal - Transceiver/charging electronics
16-Not used
17-RH front speaker + - Connects to Radio
18-LH front speaker + - Connects to Radio


The pinouts for the 26 pin connector (X18773 - Blue) are:
PIN - CONNECTION
1- LH front woofer + BLUE+WHITE
2- LH front woofer - BLUE+BROWN
3- Not used
4- RH front mid-range - BROWN
5- LH front mid-range + BLACK+GREY
6- Not used
7- Not used
8- Not used
9- RH front mid-range + BLUE+YELLOW
10-LH front mid-range - BROWN+GREY
11-Right rear mid-range speaker/tweeter + BLACK+WHITE
12-RH front tweeter + BLUE
13-RH front woofer + BLUE+RED
14-LH front tweeter + YELLOW+RED
15 LH front tweeter - YELLOW+BROWN
16-Left rear mid-range speaker/tweeter - BROWN+YELLOW
17-Not used
18-Not used
19-Left rear mid-range speaker/tweeter + BLACK+YELLOW
20-Not used
21-Not used
22-Not used
23-Not used
24-Right rear mid-range speaker/tweeter - BROWN+WHITE
25-RH front tweeter - BROWN+BLUE
26 RH front woofer - BLUE+BROWN

The number of speakers are:
2 in the rear door cards = 4
2 in the front door cards = 4 (up higher near the outside mirrors)
2 in the dash up high (base of the windscreen)

Highlighted in Bold are the ones you will need to tap into. I have also included the colours.
Essentially, if looking at the car from the back you will need to tap into the following from the 26 pin connector:

Front Left (Passenger):
Tweeter - 14, 15
Mid (in Dash) - 5, 10
Sub - 1, 2

Front Right (Drivers):
Tweeter - 12, 25
Mid (in Dash) - 4, 9
Sub - 13, 26

Rear Left (Passenger):
Tweeter/Mid - 16, 19
Sub - 3, 11 [15pin Connector]

Rear Right (Drivers):
Tweeter/Mid - 11, 24
Sub - 12, 5 [15pin Connector]

I'll have a look over the diagrams in the morning and confirm the pin assignments for the dsp amp connectors, from the e53 docs online at bmwtech.ru

*edit* forgot to ask - what are you tapping into the loom for - adding another system?

Hi, I am installing a new Android Head unit.
The head unit will be hooked up to an amp (via RCA cables) to power the door speakers (up-rated door speakers) and a subwoofer.

So essentially, I would like to use the existing car wiring which feeds the speakers, the only thing I want to do is tap into them and hook them up to my amp.

I need to power my android headunit, so would you also be able to tell me which is the Pos and Neg (Ground) in which connector which fed the widescreen satnav bmw original headunit? I also will need a switched power feed and a illumination feed (so that when I turn my head lights on, the android headunit buttons light up).

I started putting together all the info. you need and it's fast becoming a large collection of files.

It might be easier for you (and more informative) if you can get the BMW Tech WDS site running on your computer (Windows is best).

WDS BMW Wiring Diagram System - X5 E53

You'll need Java and the Adobe SVG plugin. You'll also need to set a Java security exception for the bmwtech.ru domain/website.

I can tell you that the pin out you have in your first post is essentially correct.

The Amp. in the left side pocket is called module A18.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps1c8mcr72.png http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psezniqhhs.png

X18771 = 15-pin (black)
X18772 = 18-pin (black)
X18773 = 26-pin (blue)

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psqts59hw1.png http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psdly7h43r.png http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psl2dn5cev.png

See the attached PDF for details (virtually the same as your list).

The Radio in the boot is called module N9. The main connector on this is X18126 and the connections on this vary from year to year.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...pssmikefgd.png http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psvy6jhp3d.png

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...pss8gwzabg.png http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...pskhifporj.png

The main display unit is module A196.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...ps8ggqebaw.png

It has two connectors - X18801 and X18802. Wiring details are in another attached PDF.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...psdo2a9ssx.png http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...pslgnwlhqf.png

Both X18801 and X18802 have the same pin layout (shown above).

I can provide wire colours to go with all this data, as the BMW Tech WDS site has this data on the actual circuit diagrams - sadly the colour data is not in table format. :(

Hope all this helps ya! :thumbup:

wpoll,

Great Info!:thumbup:

Thanks for sharing!

Oh, forgot to mention - to answer your Q2 - the rear door "woofer" speakers are on the first connector on your list (the 15-pin - X18771) and are labelled "Touring" (dunno why).

X18771, Pin 3 & 11 - Left rear low-range speaker

X18771, Pin 12 & 5 - Right rear low-range speaker

Wow. This is extremely useful. Many Many Thanks.
Im just trying to get the WDS to run on my machine, I have downloaded the SVG Viewer, but I am running wiondows 10.

Windows 10 will be a challenge (in more ways than just this!) - I'm not sure if the Edge browser works with Java and I know Chrome doesn't - you might need to try Firefox, the latest Java, then create the exception in the Java control panel.

The WDS system is leaning on some pretty old tech but it works well on my Windows 7 with Java 8b91 and IE11.

I see you have updated the bold items in your list. If I get time in the next day or two, I'll make up a table of those connections along with all the matching wire colours.

Can you read colours in German? It's pretty schwarz and weiss. :D

Just making sure, but is the OP aware that you cannot connect an aftermarket amp directly to the stock speakers without some sort of crossover?

By "crossover" do you mean some manner of frequency division so that each speaker is only supplied a frequency range it can reproduce? If so, then you are correct, as the OEM system uses an active crossover design in the amplifier.

But so do many after-market models. An unit that provides individual output for low-, mid- and high-range speakers wouldn't need a crossover. Such a unit would need to have at least 8-10 speaker output pairs. A simple 4 output "stereo" would need a crossover, as you suggest. A simple passive crossover or filter on each output would suffice, although an active one would be better. More complex/expensive/troublesome-to-install though! :rolleyes:

Just making sure the OP isn't going to try and connect a typical aftermarket amp or head unit directly to the factory speakers. His "new" stereo setup would be short-lived, particularly the tweeters!

I'm running an 8 channel DSP handling the crossover chores with 8 channels of amplification. I don't care for rear speakers, so I only needed 8 channels. The stock speakers sound REALLY good with this setup, except for the factory subwoofers. I'm using a single 10" sub in place of the factory subwoofers.

Hi, all the stock speakers are being replaced so the crossover issue will disapear.

On the back of my BMW wide screen SatNav headunit there are two male connectors, which the 2 female connectors fit into (from the wiring loom).
Looking at the headunit from the back, the top one is blue, the bottom one is white. This corresponds to the colours of the male connectors which are also blue and white.
The connectors are slightly different in shape (forcing you to use blue to blue and white to white), however they do have the same number of pins.
In the previous post, it was said both are blue (in the pdf).
In the posts picture, one of the connectors seems to be at the top of the headunut, while the other is towards the bottom.
However, on the back on my headunit, they are positioned one above the other.

So can someone tell me which is the X18801 and which is the X18802?
This will be vital as i need to tap into the correct one to get the power and ground/negative for my aftermarket headunit.

Further digging in the BMW Tech WDS site indicates that the connectors are colored thus: -

X18801 Component connector (12-pin, blue)

X18802 Component connector (12-pin, natural)

(This is a cut'n'paste from the docs)

The check will be that pin #2 on X18801 is a solid brown wire (no colored tracer) and is an earth connection.

There's a small amount of conflict in the BMW Tech WDS from time to time - not surprising, given the changes in the X5 over the model run. And the sheer amount of wiring! ;)

Yes there is a solid brown wire on X18001 - Blue Connector.
The only brown wire on X18002 - White connector is a brown with red one.

Many thanks.

On X18001 - Blue Connector, does it matter which "positive activation" i use? Can i use either pin 3 or pin 10 to power my headunit?
Is there a difference? E.g. is one a permenant live and one a switched live?

The BR/RT wire on X18802 (pin #7) is a video earth from the nav unit in the trunk.

Neither - in this case "positive" refers to the id of a balanced signal - from the radio.

Power is on pin #7 of X18801 - red/white (RT/WS - Rot/Weiss). It's a switched power feed from fuse F75 in the trunk fuse panel.

The same fuse also feeds X18802 on pin #8 (RT/WS).

Brilliant, im still an amateur in installing car audio...picked a difficult car to start on..lol

But all this info is very good, will help others im sure.

I cant seem to get the Headunit on. As a test, if i simply connect the GND to the Negative terminal on the cars battery, and the B+ to the Positive terminal, this should mean there should be power going to the Headunit right?
I have tried the above, with the ignition key in Position 2.

Attached is a picture of my Headunits connectors table.

Can someone tell me which ones from the Blue Box I need to connect?
There are no wires present for Pos 1 and Pos 11 in the K box (Blue Box)

As I am powering the speakers via a amp, I will be using the RCA connectors as per Red Box. Although I am unsure what Pos 10 (ANT) is or what it would connect to.

In addition to GND and B+ you'll also need to connect pin 12 - Acc-IN (red) to a switched power source. B+ should be connected to an unswitched (permanent) power source.

You might not find a switched power source in the OEM wiring to the old Nav display, as it used data signals on the I/K-bus to turn the unit on and off, not switched power.

Pin 10 on connector E (Blue) labelled "Ant" is to power an electric retractable antenna - you can ignore it - or use to to power an active antenna system if you have one.

Cheers.

I have the headunit working. Steering controls do not work, but that is a minor inconvenience.
I tapped into the Glove Box Torch (Purple wire) for the Switched Live.

Main pain is that the headunits wiring came with 2 iso connectors. Which I cannot use due to the X5 having a wide screen satnav and DSP.
This makes wiring difficult for an amateur like me.

Questions:
For the Illumination, Could I tap into the X18801 (Blue Connector):
Pos 1 - Night light signal Connector?
So when I turn the headlights on, the Headunits buttons should illuminate.
This will connect to the Orange wire going to the H/U.

There are many wires which go from the H/U into a small module titled "CAN BUS Decoder". Unsure what to do with most of these.
The wires are:
Red - Switched Live
White
Green
Orange with white stripe (splits off into a wire to H/U and a wire called BACK-CAR)
Yellow - Permanent Live
Orange (loops into 2x iso connectors)
Pink (splits off into a wire to H/U and a wire called BRAKE CTRL)
Orange (splits into a wire to H/U and a wire called ILL)
Black - Ground

There is also a Yellow RCA type connector called CCD AVIN which cones off the H/U connector. I am assuming this is for a Reversing Camera?
How would the H/U know the Reverse is engaged in order to flip the images being displayed on the screen to that of the Reverse camera?
The Reverse camera I have has the following:
Yellow RCA on the camera module - for Video
Positive power wire - I can tap into the Rear reverse light wiring harness for this
Negative power wire - I can tap into the Rear reverse light wiring harness for this
It then has a long Yellow RCA cable, assuming this is to route to the H/U.
On both sides of this Yellow RCA cable, there is a Red wire. I am assuming this is for a signal to tell the H/U reverse has been engaged? If so, where would the H/U side's Red Wire connect into? Maybe it connects to Pos 6, Blue wire, CAM-LINE in my picture (Blue Box, Section K)


There is a Brown wire called KEY1. I think this is for the steering wheel controls, but cannot be sure. What would I connect this to?
According to the Picture I posted, there are 2 KEYS, K1 (Pos 3, Brown) and K2 (Pos 12, Brown+White). Surely both should be connected?

Sorry, More Questions:
In the Green Box in my picture (H connector), there are 2 Yellow RCA connectors.
Pos 5, Video IN - Assuming this will play anything so long as source is transmitting via Composite out? (Sound will be via the Aux R and Aux L)

Pos 6, DVR-CVBS - Unsure what this is. I am assuming it is the same as VIDEO IN, however this is purely for video, so no sound via Aux R and Aux L?

Pos 3, TV-IR - This seems to be a standard wire with a clear/blueish plastic cap over it. What would this be for? IR suggests infrared?

Wow - OK, a few questions in there...! :confused:

Great that it's running. The steering wheel controls connect to the head unit via a data bus, so it's not surprising that they don't work. You'll need the correct data interface unit for your car and the stereo to sort this - more on this below...

Yep, it looks like you can connect X18801 pin #1 to the H/U Connector K pin #13 (orange - ILL) for button illumination.

We'd need to know a bit more about the aftermarket H/U you are installing to answer this bit - what is the brand, model and version? Hopefully, it supports pre-CANBUS vehicles, as I don't think the E53 is CANBUS, only the earlier I-Bus/K-Bus data systems. I think CANBUS was introduced on the E70 and later X5s (2007?), although it was a little earlier on other BMW models. Basically this decoder picks up data intended for stereo functions and decodes that data into signals for the stereo - stuff like the steering wheel controls, speed-based volume changes etc.

Not sure what "CCD AVIN" means - "CCD" usually refers to a camera sensor type and AVIN might be "AV IN" - Audio/Video Input. So yeah, that might be a camera input... check your manual.

Yes, there will likely be a signal wire from the car to tell the H/U to display the reversing camera input (the "CCD AVIN" signal?). This is often done as part of the data bus I mentioned earlier, although it can also be a discrete signal line. It seems possible that the red wire that runs along-side the video link from the rear camera would be this signal, so you can try connecting it to connector K pin #6 Blue and see if it switches the H/U display to the rear camera input when you put +12v on it. BUT, before you do this, once again, what does the reversing camera manual say about this wire? And what is the brand/model etc. of the reversing camera?

Not sure what KEY1 is- it may be as you suggest but I'm thinking that the two K pins on connector K are not related to KEY1 but are more likely to be the K-Bus data lines. I wouldn't connect anything to these until you are sure what they are. :dunno:

Seems a safe bet that "Video In" is just that - a video input.

"DVR-CVBS" is "Digital Video Recorder - Composite Video Broadcast Signal" and usually refers to the output of a DVR. What does your manual say about this? It could be that the R means receiver, in which case the input is intended to be connected to a TV receiver. And then the IR line makes sense too - for an IR remote, as you have suggested.

Boy, you picked a real monster of a first-time project! ;)

Yeh I know, tell me about it, this was not a good headunit and car to start on..lol

The Manual to the Headunit only talks about the fucntions, not the setup. So Zero help.
As for the reversing camera, there is no manual.

The Headunit is an XTRONS PF7553BA:
XTRONS PF7553BA Quad Core Android 5.1 Car DVD Player Stereo GPS WiFi BMW E53 X5 | eBay

The Camera is a generic camera:
Waterproof Wide Night Vision HD Car Reverse Camera/Rear View Parking LED Sensor | eBay

The Radio Ariel that came with the H/U has a weird connector on it.
Where would this connect to? (See attached image)
Can someone share an image to what I need as I am unsure what the actual connector is called.
It may be easier to just buy a new Ariel and keep it behind the H/.U?
A link to the 2 options above would be ideal.

Found the user manual online...

http://xtrons.com/user-guides/Androi...ser-Manual.pdf

Like you said - not much use.

It does however shed some light on a couple of your questions. The DVR-CVBS is an input for a dash camera - the H/U can be set to record the video signal from dash camera (page 17).

The term "Canbus" is used throughout the advertising and in the manual - OK, let's just call the data bus system in the E53 "Canbus" and not split hairs about what sort of bus it is - the crux is, the H/U should connect to your cars data bus and communicate correctly.

Maybe I can shed some light on the Canbus unit wiring: -

Red - Switched Live - self explanatory
White ??
Green ??
Orange with white stripe (splits off into a wire to H/U and a wire called BACK-CAR) ??
Yellow - Permanent Live - self explanatory
Orange (loops into 2x iso connectors) ??
Pink (splits off into a wire to H/U and a wire called BRAKE CTRL) - connects to park brake switch to allow video playback only with park brake applied - a requirement in some markets.
Orange (splits into a wire to H/U and a wire called ILL) - possible to control night lighting dimming?
Black - Ground - self explanatory

The wires marked with ?? are anyone's guess - but there must be a data bus connection somewhere - I'm just not sure where.

Regarding your aerial connection, the end with the long silver pin goes into the back of most aftermarket car stereo H/Us - the other (small black plastic) end connects to the BMW OEM aerial cable.

But here's your major problem - one I guess you have been dealing with all along. This H/U unit isn't designed for you car. :(

It's designed for an E53 all right but one that has the standard OEM stereo system and not the full DSP system. The standard OEM stereo has the tuner and amplifiers in the dash, so adapting an aftermarket unit is easy - you can even get BMW-OEM to DIN adapters to make this whole installation plug-and-play.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA1MFgxND...FVyhf5/$_1.JPG

In your case, the radio tuner and amp are in the back of the car. I'm guessing you have gotten around this with a long loom from front to back and you'll need to extend the OEM aerial too, if you wish to connect it. I doubt you get decent radio reception with an aerial down the back of the dash.

Your unit is very similar to the Eonon Android unit that many people have successfully installed. Look further at the eBay listing and you will see an illustration of the unit with wiring and part details. The unit as wpoll said is for a non-dsp E53, but can be used with an optional wiring loom. The aerial lead adaptor is shown, as is the canbus box. This connects to a provided extra short loom to the head unit. You will most likely find, as I did with my Eonon, that not all steering wheel functions are supported, but you will get volume and the ability to step forwards and backwards through music/video files as well as the scan function of the radio. Good luck!

All,

Nightmare installation this is.

Part 1
I took all the door cards off, therefore had to disconnect the switches etc, as I was upgrading the speakers and Headunit.

However, I have reconnected the switches, both rears and both fronts.
But now when I press lock or unlock on the remote fob, it simply opens the rear doors. The fronts do not open. I have to Manually open them and lock them with the key.

The electric folding mirrors have also stopped working (when I press the square button). The Window switches work.

Any Ideas?

Part 2
The headunit has 4 RCA outputs.
2 for Front (L + R) and 2 for Rear (L + R)

I have connected all of them successfully and they all work.
However as soon as i switch the ignition on, a massive whine comes out of the speakers.
But one 2 RCAs - so only 2 lots of speakers, either rear or front.

1. The whine was coming from the rear speakers, so i disconnected the rear RCAs (Going to the Amp) from rear RCA inputs (on H/U).
Whine Stopped.

2. I then took the front RCAs (Going to Amp) out the front RCA inputs (on H/U).
No sound at all, which i what I expected.

3. I then connected the front RCAs (Going to Amp) to the rear RCA inputs (on H/U).
No Whine. Which was confusing as I thought I may have made a mistake in the Rear Wiring.

4. I then connected the rear RCAs (Going to the Amp) to the front RCA inputs (on H/U).
Whine started again.

5. I then disconnected the rear RCAs (Going to the Amp) and the Whine Stopped.

So what I have concluded is, for some reason it doesnt like ALL 4 RCAs connected at one time when the ignition is ON.
However it is OK when the ignition is OFF.

I even tried a different RCA, but never made a differences.

For the H/U, the Ground I am using is the one for the Glove Box Torch.
The Positive is taken from the existing SatNav connectors.

I am totally lost on this one.

The only thing I have totally disconnected is the Wide Screen SatNav.
The DSP Amp, CD Changer and the Bluetooth receiver.

I'll defer to the more experienced crew here on the door thing but my only comment would be - disconnect the battery for 5 minutes (if you didn't have it disconnected when you disconnected the door wiring - and you should have!).

Regarding the whine - sounds like interference from something, probably due to the earth connection you have used. For an installation like this, you want a REALLY good earth on the main amplifier, and preferably the same good earth point as the H/U. Hard to do in your case but if you have the main amp. in the rear, then connect the amps earth to the negative battery terminal. Then connect the H/U earth to the large earth terminal under the bonnet (hood) on the left side. You can make these temporary connections (with BIG wire!), then test your sound system again. If the whine is gone, you know what to do... :D

BTW, all this talk of CAN bus etc. got me interested enough to learn more about the buses in the E53 and as usual, Qsilver7 comes to the rescue. :thumbup:

Turns out there IS some CAN bus in the E53 but it's restricted to DME/DDE, AGS, DSC and LEW comms. Here's a diagram Qsilver7 posted on another board (and likely this board at some point!).

http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...Diagnostic.jpg

Doesn't change your H/U install but it's interesting to see how the various buses connect etc. Most aftermarket systems are going to call any of the buses in a BMW "CAN bus" - it seems to have become a generic term for any bus system in a car these days.

The above diagram also shows why it's possible to work on E53 cas with only a low-end KK-line OBD-II adapter - the CAN bus isn't used for diagnostics (except via the bus gateway in the IKE). KK-line adapters are much cheaper that the DCAN units required for later cars.

I also had a good read of a really great document on diagnosing D, I, K, CAN and P bus faults. Man, I'm glad I've got an oscilloscope! :yikes:

Used a Ground Loop Isolator on Amp side - got rid of 95% of whine.
Will install another one on the head unit side, so hopefully it will reduce it further.

Mirrors, locks etc working now. Disconnected battery for 15 mins, reconnected, and now it works.

Cheers for all your help. Much appreciated.

I have updated my original post to also include the colours of the wires.

thanks for the post ! for whatever reason, the ISTA database under my VIN didn't have info for the DSP version of the amp.

Here's pinouts I put together when I was making a DSP interface harness to add to the info from BMWx5e53.

https://i.postimg.cc/1s296j26/DSP-Amp-Pinout-Small.jpg

I used BMWx5e53's info and Tis to build it. I don't remember if I found discrepancies for my 2006 4.8is w/ Nav and DSP.