I assume you are saying the steering wheel is trying to turn left and right and wabble is wobble.

Was this problem present before you did all the work?

Rotors, new or otherwise, are always suspect when a problem occurs under braking. It only takes about .003 of rotor warp to cause braking issues. Sometimes the rotor is fine but is not flat to the hub or torqued poorly. Rotors can be checked with runout gauge. Sometimes you can feel uneven braking if you brake lightly from 35-40 MPH, an indication a rotor is not true.

Could also be a sticking caliper. If your tires were not road balanced that would be worth a try. Alignment is a possibility. Could be something going on in the suspension, if you didn't do a complete suspension rebuild. Most of the suspension parts have reached the end of their life cycle around 100,000 miles.

If you haven't had an alignment done since the work you need to do that anyway and roadforce balancing is almost always an improvement. I don't know if local autoparts stores rent runout gauges like they do other tools. If so, the tool is easy to work with and all you have to do is remove the tire to check how true a rotor is. As a matter of fact just yesterday I replaced a close to new rotor on my wife's 335 that was out by .0035. Was terrible under braking--all better now.

This is what you posted:

New bushings for the tension arms or the control arms?

I'll get it checked by the brake shop in the morning thanks guys

Rotor warp can cause it, but that is usually felt through the pedal. I think the most likely cause of steering wobble during braking is the lower thrust arm bushing failure.

I had a warped rotors but i didn't feel it on the pedal.. Only felt it on the steering wheel (shaking/vibrating). I changed the rotors and everything went back to normal.. huge difference in driving...