CleanIsFast Journal: BMW X5 4.6iS
 

Surprised I don't see more of these journal threads, but I'll start one for my recently acquired 4.6iS. Picked it up last week from my local mechanic that I've known for years.

Background:
August 2003 build
Black Sapphire Metallic
Black Sport Interior
Titan Trim
82k on motor
122k on chassis


Upcoming Maintenance:
[ ] License plate lenses
[ ] License plate bulbs
[ ] Rear trunk emblem replacement
[ ] Full Paint Correction
[ ] Headlight restoration
[ ] Cluster fix (terrible pixel issue)
[ ] Upgrade Steering Wheel

Other than that, no real modifications in the near future. Rather keep it OEM and keep it maintained.

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdm40ditz.jpg
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...pshz2huqxo.jpg

Clean as fuckkkkk

that's the x5 4.6is that I got hook on ............Just be sure to have a trusted mechanic to work on her............

A few more random photos. I knew there was a aftermarket rear camera installed by the previous owner, it wasn't working when I received it but I played around with a bunch of wires in the trunk over the weekend and got it to work! No delay when switching between drive/park to reverse. Also came retrofited with an escort 8500 radar detector system, pretty clean install.

Overall, very happy with the interior condition. Leather is fairly good on all seats, came with weathertech all weather mats, I'll probably chuck those and get the standard BMW all weather mats. Weathertech ones are bit bulky. I'd also like to get an all weather trunk mat.
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psssxz31sr.jpg
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psexe4vzgr.jpg
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psikybkbd1.jpg

Looks like carbon copy of my beast minus back up camera and radar. Lucky for me I don't need it here in NYC since I'm on the force not that I speed.

Love the oem pedals.

:drool: :thumbup:

Can't decide if I like Styling 168 or 87 more :)

Do you have a pic where we can see your non-oem rear view camera and the way it was fitted?

Have you been able to sort out all the issues you've been having with your 4.6? Thought you were actively selling yours?

They are? I thought they were aftermarket

87 for the win!

Yea i'll take some pictures, it's mounted to the rear license plate frame. This writeup looks to have similar; if not all, parts: Backup camera install write-up...

I decided to keep her and will be eplacing wheel bearings next week. After looking around there isn't really anything out there that is this fast, sexy and spacious for this amount of $.
I have my commuter car and this is my fun car.

Ah nice, glad your keeping it!

They might be I'm sure copies or counterfeits were made but these are the OEM ones -

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...s/IMG_1212.jpg

Interesting, I don't have the dead pedal piece.

Its sold separately so its a good chance the owner didn't want to pay the $90 just for dead pedal

haha gotcha. Wonder what the price of it now is. Any chance you know the part number?

edit* nevermind I found it: 51470390284

^Yep that's it - would be a nice match and easy DIY!

Yup, i'll match them at some point but for $90-95 i'll wait. I'm sure other items will take precedence.

Any plan to have Brian @SpeedFreak get a hand on it?
Keeping miles off your M5 too.

Oh yea for sure. I've been in contact with Brian months. He performed a single stage paint correction and opti-coat on my M5 a couple years ago. Results were amazing; if you think your paint is clean, it's not haha. Brian does amazing work, I highly recommend him to any in the local area.

Yup, I hope to reduce the annual mileage on the M5 going forward. It's been a great daily for over 3 years. :thumbup:

That looks so weird - I can't get my head around the pedals on that side of the car! ;)

Yes this is one nice set of aluminum pedal set. I installed a set from BMW on my X5 last week. Looks good IMO. Notice how the interior trim profile of the OP's X5 is a different trim profile of my 2003 X5 4.6is which in turn yields a different dead pedal cover.
[IMG]http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/...l%20Covers.jpg[/IMG]

Small update - 11.09.16

Parts finally came in, stupid license plate lens were special order...Took 5 days to come in. Old lens were probably original, a little burnt and disgusting. One bulb was out so this will get rid of the 'check license plate light' for good, along with a fresh new emblem on the trunk. I hate seeing BMWs with faded/chipped emblems

Upcoming Maintenance:
[X] License plate lenses
[X] License plate bulbs
[X] Rear trunk emblem replacement
[ ] Full Paint Correction
[ ] Headlight restoration
[ ] Cluster fix (terrible pixel issue)
[ ] Upgrade Steering Wheel

Was able to source a used Perforated ///M Steering Wheel, should be here next week. It'll be a nice change from the sport steering wheel in my opinion. I was trying to source the E46 M3 Steering Wheel brand new, but I must've missed the dip in prices because they have sky rocketed now! Slowly but surely working on the cluster pixel issue. Meeting up with my buddy tomorrow who has an NCS Expert software so he can pull the ZCS codes for me on the vehicle. After that another one of my other friends is able to remanufacture clusters and should take care of the pixel issue for good. I may even put in the grey-faced M5 cluster, the ///M symbol will give it a nice touch (if he has one in stock).

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psspkbuucw.jpg

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps55afbzrm.jpg

Upcoming Maintenance:
[X] License plate lenses
[X] License plate bulbs
[X] Rear trunk emblem replacement
[ ] Full Paint Correction
[ ] Headlight restoration
[ ] Cluster fix (terrible pixel issue)
[ ] Upgrade Steering Wheel
[ ] Replace driver side door lock pin
[ ] Replace front floor mats with OEM all weather mats (toss the weathertech ones unless someone wants them)
[ ] Engine cover lock pins (noticed 2 out of the 4 are missing) - bought 4 new ones

I'll take those weather mats off your hands :D


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I'll let you know when I take them out. It would just be the front mats (Driver and Passenger)

Sorry, I didn't even notice your location, I'm in Chicago lol. Unless you could ship and I would pay for shipping. Nah nvm it's not worth your time.


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Cluster pixel fix underway, mine are very bad:

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psp5lp1aja.jpg


I have an inquiry in with my buddy Paul down in NC. He remanufactures clusters (pixels, LEDs, etc). Hope to have the pixel issue resolved in the next 1-2 weeks. Upgraded to white LEDs and utilized grey face M5 cluster should look really sleek.

This afternoon picked up some small parts from the dealership. New door lock pin (mine was missin), new wiper blades, new rear license plate bracket, engine cover lock pins, all weather front mats.

Upcoming Maintenance:
[X] License plate lenses
[X] License plate bulbs
[X] Rear trunk emblem replacement
[X] Replace driver side door lock pin
[X] Replace front floor mats with OEM all weather mats (toss the weathertech ones unless someone wants them)
[X] Engine cover lock pins (noticed 2 out of the 4 are missing) - bought 4 new ones
[ ] Cluster fix (terrible pixel issue)
[ ] Upgrade Steering Wheel
[ ] Full Paint Correction
[ ] Headlight restoration

Cluster and steering wheel on there way.

Steering wheel arrived. Thanks again Adam! Was very lucky to snag this up, it's no longer available. Came in the E46 ZHP 3 series as an upgraded option (I think). I've actually been looking for one of these for the ///M5 for awhile and could never source one. Definitely got lucky stumbling upon this one.

PN#32347906682

Cleaned it up this afternoon. Started with just some hot water and a applicator. Amazing what came off with just water. Then used a toothbrush and Gliptone cleaner around the entire wheel and stitching. Followed by Gliptone conditioner and amazing how it came out. Pictures aren't doing this justice, the lighting is terrible. I should have some better pictures once installed.

Before:
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psddticz0f.jpg

Hot water + applicator pad:
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psuhdjeibs.jpg

Scrubbing it down, section by section:
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psptlgn8ul.jpg

After:
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...pstedmlftw.jpg
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps0wpq63g8.jpg
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...pswu69fe5u.jpg

Lookin good! That steering wheel is quite the rarity.

Good looking 4.6

That looks good, you are making fast progress on your TODOs :)
The steering wheel looks like new, amazing...

Feels good as every item gets fixed, right? I know this feeling ;)

Thanks Daniel!

Appreciate it


Yes sir! Well process is moving along because I've been planning for a few weeks ahead. A lot of these things are small items anyways.

Gliptone makes great leather products

Would you recommend gliptone for the seats.


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Most definitely :thumbup:

There is nothing more satisfying than to see someone else using a toothbrush on car parts.....:thumbup:

The only recommendation I have to offer is to treat the leather 2-4 times with a 24 hrs set up time between applications as it will soften the leather and make it more consistent across the entire wheel as all the oils and dirt are pulled out.

Thanks Stephen. I haven't installed the wheel yet. I was going to give it one more treatment of conditioner as well. It's been about 72 hrs since it's first application soi'll hit it one more time before install.

Pedals are aftermarket, OE pedals were black rubber.

Maybe he meant the OE 'BMW Performance' Pedals? I think that's what they are, but I have no idea, it came with the vehicle.

My X5 has the metal alloy with rubber inserts and its from BMW. It is an option

To best of my knowledge it was not an option for the build sheet on a 4.6. It may have been available to purchase from the parts department.

"Dealer Installed Equipment"- done after sale or anytime someone purchased the parts and the dealer/seller installed them.

Tow hitches, extra lights, interior do-dads, etc, whatever the BMW parts dept could get their hands on and the sales people could move. 50%-200%+ profit items. I have an old BMW dealer add on catalog that shows all the optional parts for upgrades a US dealer could offer. Some nice, some tasteless.

Anyone for Sheepskin seat covers with a BMW logo? :yikes::bustingup

I meant OEM BMW Accessory - I never implied installed prior to delivery -

No one is busting your chops on that as OEM means just that. "BMW approved" ha ha ha :rolleyes:

Just for clarification

Options-generally refers to features that can be added on or upgrades to standard equipment available from the factory when ordering a new vehicle.

OE-original equipment, genuine BMW replacement part.

OEM-Original equipment Manufacturer, replacement part made by the original BMW supplier but is labeled with supplier's brand name. May or may not be to BMW quality specs.

BMW accessories- purchased in parts department, can be dealer installed or otherwise.

Aftermarket- Parts that don't carry the BMW brand name. Often refers to performance or appearance upgrades but can also be superior, same or inferior quality stock replacement parts marketed as equal to or greater quality than genuine BMW parts.

You're so cool and knowledgeable bro.


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Okay it is available from the BMW, dealer installed the pedal covers, sold to customer in that manner. While not factory installed its still an option as an accessory. My point is BMW approved the design, placed their name behind it and offered is as upgrade to customers.

11.19.16 - Steering Wheel Install!

Spent about 60 mins this morning swapping the sport steering wheel to the newly acquired ///M Steering Wheel. Taking all the crap out of the trunk to access the battery takes the longest, after that the swap is very straight forward. Here are some before and after shots. I am very satisfied with the end results. FYI - old sport steering wheel is for sale @ $200 + Shipping.

BEFORE:
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...pslghif1kc.jpg
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psyuxwozfd.jpg

AFTER:
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9kkifpmx.jpg
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...pskeclvkze.jpg

Next up is the cluster swap, I already have the cluster. Just scheduling some time with my mechanic who has the autologic to perform the coding.

Looks really nice, I like it :)

FYI: cluster swap is not only some simple swapping and coding. At least if milages differ between the old and new one.

Hey can change the mileage through that as well?



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After performing a ton of research and asking various people about cluster information, I am fairly confident I will be able to have the new cluster match up everything correctly. I have the autologic step-by-step screenshots for recoding the new cluster, I'll report back once everything is squared away.


FYI - here is the cluster i'll be swapping in:
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psruk5piun.jpg

Nice.... an E39 M5 cluster.

Beautiful, can you please share the steps if you can get it to work. There's a 4.8is cluster laying around but I have no idea how to get everything to work, besides removing the tamper dot and changing my vin to it. I'd really like to correct the miles and get the oil temp to work. Thanks clean.


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Update: 12.01.2016 - Cluster Swap!

Hope you all had a nice Thanksgiving. I was finally able to swap the new cluster in, and it's even better than I expected....Well worth the wait. My buddy Paul was able to hook me up with a nice clean E39 M5 Cluster, upgraded the pixels so they will never fail again, and upgraded to white LEDs. I love the new look, it really ties will with the upgraded steering wheel and the white LEDs just set it off. I can FINALLY see my mileage, outside temp, trip!

For those who need pixel fix or led upgrades or just need another cluster visit him at: www.facebook.com/fixels

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psjbmomcpa.jpg

And for those who think it's IMPOSSIBLE to swap clusters without buying a new one you are wrong. I used an autologic and here are the screenshots step-by-step:

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2naaz9uz.png
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr41ue95q.png
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...pstssr1txk.png
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps1rvknbfy.png
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psri2rxn07.png

The DSC, Brake, ABS light will be on after coding. You need to power cycle the vehicle and they should go away. Or start driving the vehicle and they should go away.

Looking good! I'm getting my X5 4.6 pretty soon, can't wait to dive into that. Except mine needs chain guides so I'm diving straight into the deep end of X5 ownership. Good thing I've done chain guides like 6 times already on other M62TU-powered cars.

Thanks and Welcome! Please post a detailed DIY on the TCG!

Thanks! And you bet I will! I'm planning on writing up a very comprehensive DIY that will cover all the various quirks of each M62TU application, since I've done guides on an E38, E39, Range Rover, and now an X5. I'll take lots of pictures :) I'm super active over on Bimmer Forums and I hope to contribute lots here as well.

Oh yeah, and I was able to source a brand new DINAN intake for the beast :) It arrives Tuesday.

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7yin27kq.jpg

Doesn't that kinda negate the X5's (limited) off-roading abilities by putting the air intake lower to the ground and thus closer to sources of water? I guess if you're just driving it on the street then it's fine.

^:xoutpost: dannyzabolotny
Did you just get that 4.6iS? Where's the intro thread :D

Oh yeah, I should totally make one. This one's been in the works for about a week now, but I refrained from posting about it until it was a done deal. Since I signed all the paperwork and wired the money today I guess it's about time to write about it haha

Nice work :)
The white LEDs are looking really bright, won't they glare too much at night?

Btw: I didn't said it's impossible to swap. I said, it's not possible by "simple" coding (means by using the standard BMW software).

It was an impulse buy because the price was good. But I don't think the 4.6 intake is like the M5 or 5 series intakes where the tube goes down into the fog light area? I could be wrong, but the pictures show the intake up top in the engine compartment, I don't think i'll have any issues with water. And no this vehicle won't be going off road anytime soon :rofl:

Looking forward to it :thumbup:

The LEDs are bright, I drove this morning to work and no issues of glare at all. Maybe it looks uber bright due to the cellphone picture? Here is another from this morning. I think the white also is such a different brightness compared to OEM standard yellow that it may come off "too bright" from the pictures:

:thumbup: have to admit it looks really really good - although I'm usualy not a fan of led tweaks ;)

Just an idea: maybe changing the amber leds at the bottom to yellow ones (like the original cluster color was) would look even better/up-to-date

I dont think the bottom led ribbon was changed? Even the original was amber color

I meant the original yellow leds behind the upper gauges :)

The bottom line was amber on all, correct...

You're right. Dinan filter sits where the OE filter box is. No problem with water whatsoever.

TMV is right about the Dinan intake set up no worries on where it picks air from. I run it on my 4.6is and I love it. The one thing/modification that I made on it was to the turn the air intake hose for the air pump up to where the air filter resides so that it would not sit lower than the air pump. There is a small 2" air filter that is in the Dinan kit for the air pump. Once you do this you should have no worries about picking up water. Enjoy.

Thanks for the tip Jay. I may be PM'ing in regards to that later on. It comes with instructions but we'll see how intuitive they are

Its an easy install so you should have no problems. As always I am here to help so feel free to drop me a line anytime. Now that I got all the major maintenance squared away on the X5 4.6is I need to do a thermostat change on the E39 M5. BMWs are definitely a labor of love but once you get them straight there is no other vehicle experience that compares with them.

Ah, gotcha. Well thanks for clearing that up! My experience with the Dinan intakes is mostly from the E39— my M5 had the carbon fiber Dinan intakes and they sat super low to the ground. I'm glad that Dinan designed the air intake to work with the X5 properly.

That's the one that is from the BMW dealer, I think in California?

Mine has been in place since 2003, no problems and if installed correctly the intake hose faces upward. Agree that install is straightforward. I've had mine out many times. Vertical piece toward engine is a bit tricky to get in place but not anything that will hold one back. One thing that is important. Make sure the air filter is not excessively oiled. It should be a very light pink using the Dinan stuff. Use very sparingly. If it is oiled too much it will murder the MAF sensor.

I suggest that those adding the COI at least hunt up a Dinan throttle body and purchase the Stage 3 tune still available from Dinan. I know the OE MAF housing is smaller which must restrict the air some so I would also try to find their MAF housing and then you can go to the stage 4 tune. If ones 4.6 is bone stock, the very first thing I would do is a low restriction exhaust, wouldn't have to be Dinan.

Isn't the stock 4.6 exhaust supposed to be more free-flowing than the regular 4.4 exhaust? That's what I've heard, but it could just be marketing.

You are correct.

However, there are extremely few applications that performance is not improved but reducing back pressure up to the point of direct exit headers that there is some science that needs to be considered. I added electric cutouts just for that reason, not headers, but I can't justify them, too many $$$ too little gain.

In addition, most of this conversation is about mods that let more air into the engine. More air in means got to get more 'air' out--less restriction equals more 'air' out.

Update 12.02.2016: Auxiliary Cable

Vehicle actually came with it, but I couldn't get it to work. Ended up having to take out the navigation screen and low and behold, the harness for the auxiliary cable was unhooked. Simply plugged it back in, put everything back together, selected mode and viola:

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psj4cj1tta.jpg

Also, here is another picture of the cluster during the day (no leds on), all gauges function 100% even the start up oil temp:

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psgbqnysgu.jpg

Very nice! And oh yeah, didn't every X5 4.6 come pre-wired for aux-in from the factory since they're 2002/2003 production vehicles? That has me pretty excited. My 2003 540i M-Sport was pre-wired for factory aux-in so installing an aux-in jack was the easiest thing ever.

Aren't all X5's prewired


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When you coded your cluster, it automatically changed the miles to what they originally were?


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I graduated through every Dice model to the Mediabridge and don't recall if I could get the AUX option from the mode selection on the radio before the first install.

Yes the mileage matches to the vehicle. Probably through the EWS or something (all the abbreviations / tech stuff is over my head). Again, no issues with coding the cluster to the vehicle utilizing the autologic. It takes the information from the vehicle and puts it on the cluster. I followed the screenshots and no issues.

Update: 01.03.2017 - New Year Bump

Haven't updated in awhile. Have taken trips up to Delaware and North Carolina with the vehicle. For the most part, it performed very well. Such a comfortable ride, with power at any moment. Was dealing with an evap code for a bit, but replaced with a brand new OEM gas cap and that has taken care of the code for now. Started to misfire in cylinder 2, need to take the cover off to see if there is any oil in the spark plug area or possible valve cover gasket leak. Runs a little rough in the morning on cold start but smooths out after and drives perfectly fine.

Only negative so far was a window regulator crapped on me while I was down in NC (rear passenger window).

Notable Future Items:
- Upcoming Oil Service
- Transmission Flush/Fill
- Tires: fronts are noticeably balding the rears aren't as bad. I currently have Conti DWS on the vehicle, I would like to switch to Bridgestones or Michelin but I may stick with all-seasons for the time being.
- Base support: been looking for base support for a ski rack
- Tow hitch: OEM retrofit
- DINAN CAI installation: still in the box

I'll be heading up to NY in 2 weeks then PA (Camelback) at the end of the month.

Updating the log: 01.13.2017 - Took off some of the older items that were complete, and added a few more.

Upcoming Maintenance:
[X] Cluster fix (terrible pixel issue)
[X] Upgrade Steering Wheel
[X] Door lock fix
[X] Driver side wheel bearing and wheel hub assembly
[X] Rear passenger window regulator
[X] Brand new Continental DWS06 Tires 275/315
[ ] Intake Filter replacement
[ ] Oil Service
[ ] Transmission Fluid service
[ ] Rear trunk deck lid lense
[ ] Automatic trunk open springs
[ ] Replace wheel cap roundels - updated version
[ ] Full Paint Correction - Spring 2017
[ ] Headlight restoration - Spring 2017

I have approx 8 of the old center caps if you need a few more!
Suggestions: Balance the tires at the same time, wash, clay, and wax the barrels it makes it so easy to keep sparkling clean during these nasty salt days.

I will be buying the newer updated version wheel roundels. Thanks though.

Tires were all mounted & balanced at the same time @ Gary's :)

At this moment, no time to take off the wheels, wash, clay, wax them. Vehicle is used daily, no garage, no spare vehicle to use instead. Some of us don't have the luxury of multiple vehicles and garage space :rofl:

Tire cleaning is drive way wash and then roll the tire inside for buffing and waxing in comfort! Like heat:rofl::rofl:

Roll them inside? Lol you mean carry them up 3 flights of stairs. If your offering up your space let me know :thumbup:

Follow up from an update I had earlier this month when I had a misfire in cylinder #2. Moved coil to cylinder #5, and now #5 is misfiring (P1351 & P0363). Just ordered a new OEM coil and spark plug boot. Drove up and back to NY this weekend and couldn't push the vehicle past 3k rpms without it misfiring. Other than that, drove very smoothly, fresh tires are great - little to no road noise, great grip. Comfortable 550 miles trip.

Next up is ignition coil replacement and see if it's still misfiring and oil service.

What brand of ignition coil did you order? My 4.6 had a new BMW ignition coil on cylinder 8 that was from "Pulse" and it was made in China in 2013. It started misfiring shortly after I got the engine running, so I swapped in a used Bremi ignition coil from 2001. So far that's been working perfectly, so I'll stick to ordering Bremi coils.

I ordered OEM from the dealer. BMW Fairfax by me usually has some of the lowest prices on OEM parts. Lower than ECS, BavAuto, Turner, etc I hope it doesn't say Made in China on it when I receive it. :confused:

Bremi Coils are a good quality coil

Bremi used to be the Genuine BMW coil until they switched to Pulse. This is what the Genuine BMW coils look like now:

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/142514_x800.jpg

I think its safe to say that BMW after sale parts, some of them, have gone down on the level of quality vs the original. If I have to replace a coil I am going for the BREMIs

Great...well we'll see which brand I get from the dealer. Now I know to use bremi if it winds up being that chinese pulse one. I am picking up the part today.

Wasnt Bosch an OEM supplier as well?

Rockauto has coil with spark plug connector for ~$46 from Bosch. Seems like a no brainer to me

I've never seen a Bosch coil as OE in an M62tu. Maybe it was original in other engines? Every single M62tu I've seen so far had Bremi coils as stock (by stock I mean matching production date to the engine).

Whats the difference between these two bremi coils? They are different prices, and actually the one with the boot is less.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bremi-pa...137599219~bri/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bremi-pa...131703228~bri/

Just going by what I saw on Pelican Parts noting as an OE supplier

You have the "older version" of the BMW coils. One the Bremi made coils. Make sure you order the replaceable spark plug coil boot from Bremi also. It is nothing more than a short plug wire. One for every coil. Most of the misfires from "coils" come from too high resistance in the secondary ignition system over time (plugs, coil boots, HARD driving, towing, city driving - same thing that wears plugs faster, making the coils run at max saturation (long dwell) which leads to overheating and then coil windings/insulation breakdowns (it shorts out). Most owners cannot feel the misfires poor acceleration/performance, and keep driving until the coil can not overcome the resistance on hard acceleration (going up a hill for example).

Recommendations: If you vehicle has replaceable coil boots, replace at 60-80K when changing the plugs. They are cheap cheap cheap. Buy the ones for the COIL not the one that is cheapest. For those who like to test, get your OHM meter and you should not see anything over 5K OHMs. Install with a little dielectric grease to seal out moisture. If you do the boot will not "stick" to the plugs over the next 60,000 miles.

See Bremi's catalog- recommends this coil.
11860T
Zündkerzensteckerlänge 118mm
Length of spark plug terminal
118mm
12 Volt
Verwendung für: / applicable for:
ALPINA
BMW
LAND ROVER
ROVER

Downloads | BREMI

Ignition coil BOSCH 8 12131703228 $85.84
01 Ignition coil BREMI 8 12131748018 $85.84 ENDED
01 Ignition coil BREMI 8 12137599219

Bremi cross ref shows the following
12 13 1 748 018 = 11859T
12 13 1 748 018 = 11860T
12 13 7 599 219 = 11859T
The dif is 1 mm coil term length........:dunno:

Note: Bremi is a part manufacturer, that sells both in the OE business and the aftermarket. The latest catalog is your best friend. NOT A VENDOR'S WEBSITE.

Well I picked up the OEM Dealer coil and it was PULSE Made in China. I put it in this afternoon. No misfire in #5 anymore. Now it's back to cylinder #2. Got dark out so I couldn't swap coils and test...Hate not having a garage.

Another note, oil in the spark plug wells bank 2? (cylinders 5-8). So looks like leaky VCG. Didn't even open up the other bank, but I would assume the same shit. Also noticed cylinder #6 had a different date stamp then 7 & 8. #5, 7,8 all had original date stamp 2003. #6 had 2011.

Replaced #5, no code anymore but upon startup it bogs down hard, almost to zero rpms and then smooths back up to about 600 rpms after 1 second. Idles fine unlike before when it was running rough. Went around the block, drives fine, did one pull and flashing SES again - misfire cylinder #2.

It is that ROVER coil you but in there...... :rofl::thumbup:

Adding valve cover gasket job to this list.

Upcoming Maintenance:
[X] Brand new Continental DWS06 Tires 275/315
[X] Intake Filter replacement
[ ] Oil Service
[ ] Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
[ ] Spark Plugs
[ ] Ignition Coils + Boots
[ ] Transmission Fluid service
[ ] DINAN Transmission Software
[ ] Rear trunk deck lid lense
[X] Automatic trunk open springs
[ ] Replace wheel cap roundels - updated version
[ ] Full Paint Correction - Spring 2017
[ ] Headlight restoration - Spring 2017

Update 01.28.17: Weekend Work

DINAN is having sale on software for E53 so I jumped on it. Not many times DINAN is 50% off anything. Another reason being; my transmission has the harsh 2-1 downshift at normal operating temp. Only time it is not there is prior to normal operating temp, and sport mode. Adding the DINAN Automatic Transmission software couldn't hurt. For $280 for transmission and engine software was a no-brainer for me. The shop didn't even charge me labor and hooked me up with a DINAN t-shirt. I also snagged some old DINAN brochures because I thought they were cool.

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...pskpmnqz5l.jpg
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psp2in77da.jpg


StephenVA was nice enough to let me swing by his house today and wrench on my vehicle. Super knowledgeable and has all the tools. Thanks again! About half the plugs were covered in oil, the other half were just old. Really surprised I wasn't having misfires in cylinder #4 & #8 because those were the worst ones. Fresh NGK Iridium plugs and Bremi coils in. Still need to replace the valve cover gaskets, that'll be next. Beast started right up, idled much better (rough idle is gone), misfires are gone now. Did an oil service as well when I got home. Previous owner had a Hengst oil filter in there :confused:. Fresh Mobil1 0w-40 and Mann Filter. :thumbup:

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psmjiurx89.jpg
http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...psiwugi7ep.jpg


Upcoming Maintenance:
[X] Brand new Continental DWS06 Tires 275/315
[X] Intake Filter replacement
[X] Oil Service
[X] Spark Plugs
[X] Ignition Coils + Boots
[X] DINAN Transmission Software
[X] Rear trunk deck lid lense
[X] Automatic trunk open springs
[ ] Transmission Fluid service
[ ] Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
[ ] Replace wheel cap roundels - updated version
[ ] Full Paint Correction - Spring 2017
[ ] Headlight restoration - Spring 2017

I use Hengst filters all the time, they've always worked great for me. Mann is fine too. As long as it's a German filter and not some generic Autozone filter it's probably fine.

Those NGks are way better than the bosch for these engines. You should experience a much better response from your X5

OOh I think I'll be making an appointment to get the Dinan software on the X5!!!!

CleanIsFast so how is the Dinan software? What do your have you noticed over stock?

Trans SW : Fun on a bun!


I'm still debating Stage 1 engine SW :)

I'd love to hear more about the differences from stock. I'm all about upping the fun for a few hundred bucks, but ~8HP at an RPM range I never see doesn't do much for me on paper. Would love to understand it in real life.

Yes so far so good! :thumbup:

Figured it was a no brainer at 50%, basically 2 for the price of 1.

Yes I do notice a difference but in my case it's night and day different because I had the misfires prior to the software installation and coils/plugs. So obviously everything is going to "feel" better to me. Overall, I believe it keeps the rpms slightly higher at idle which in turn helps with the harsh 2-1 downshift. Vehicle definitely shifts faster, and when you want to get on it - it'll keep the revs longer before the next upshift.


I really just wanted the transmission software but while I was there I said why not the engine software as well. I do have a DINAN Intake laying around I could install as well. I just wanted to have the vehicle sorted before making it look pretty :bustingup

I didn't notice too much with the trans SW performace, but as said above the behavior of the trans is what changed. I like that I can stay in gear without a forced shift and the slightly higher rev limit (In manual mode) is nice. I love it for canyon driving.

Stage 1 Engine SW is kinda "meh". You wont notice the HP, but what you likely will notice is the throttle remapping and "feel" faster. Some say that since it's optimized for 91AKI you get a smidge better MPG, but it's not like we count that anyway :rofl:.

How much did your idle change with the Dinan Software?

Key benefits of transmission software are faster and firmer shifts and shift points that are in a better HP/TQ range than stock tune. Both contribute to faster 0-60mph times.

All Dinan engine software is designed to work best with other Dinan mods. Depends on the stage as to what else is needed to generate their numbers.

Dinan doesn't run many sales, certainly not 50% off. I think they do that once a year. Both trans and engine software are great prices! HP gain doesn't matter as much as torque gain and the associated curve. It doesn't take much to make a worthwhile difference.

Hengst filters are the original BMW ones :)

I think it raised it ever so slightly, maybe a few hundred rpms. I didn't have the before number so I can't say definitively.

Thanks for letting me know, I just found it odd because I never used them. The oil filter housing gasket ring was also white not the usual black I am used too. I'll continue to stick with MANN filters.

Keep using Mann -

My Genuine BMW filter I purchased about 3 months ago and just installed last weekend when I did my bi-annual oil change was a Mann filter - BMW has switched suppliers a few times over the years, both are good.

Mann and Hengst are both fine, I wouldn't worry about it. It's the bootleg Autozone filters I'd worry about— whenever I see those in a car I get a little worried.

You should definitely sell me the dinan intake :D

PM me :thumbup:

Are you talking about cold air box?

Yes DINAN Cold Air Intake.

__________________________________________________ ___

On another note, I took the X on a long drive last night and the 2-1 downshift lurch is still present. Definitely not as bad as before the transmission software, but it is still there. New transmission fluid next.

I thought we came to the conclusion that this mod (dinan CAI) is worthy of your X5? I am getting Dinan stage3 and auto trans software on Monday.

P0741 came back this morning on my way to work. This is only the 2nd time it's happened and I started to notice when it occurs. It only triggers if I am going uphill (or an incline), and I let off the gas? If I let off for a second or two it's fine, but anything longer it triggering the torque converter code. Transmission shifts very well in my opinion, up and down. Only time it doesn't is 2-1 downshift at a light or stop sign when temps are at 210* (dead center). Anything prior to normal operating temperature and the 2-1 lurch is not there at all. I've learned to coast to the stop sign (or light) with light brake pressure to get from 3-2, 2-1 and it helps a little. Still looking to do a transmission service (fluid, filter, pan gasket). I'd really like to do it myself since it seems fairly straight forward and I assume that there is enough clearance for me to just get underneath the vehicle without lifting it (even though that would be a lot easier). I guess I need to invest in some jack stands. Funny, I called my local stealership and they said "We will not perform that service on automatic transmissions. It is lifetime..." :bustingup Even if the customer wants it done.

I wouldn't even try without jack stands. If you buy jack stands look for long version from craftsman and then a floor jack at some point that will raise it up that high.

I suggest checking the pan temp when you experience the problem to see if it is in normal range. Overheating can cause trans to do weird stuff. Laser temp readers are one of those tools you won't need often but is important and justified as a small reduction in the labor cost you are saving because you DIY.

You may have a problem with the internal heat sensor which is built into the wiring harness that you can replace when you have the pan off.

If the heat sensor was bad, wouldn't the temp read differently on the cluster?

Coolant temp can normal and trans oil temp too high. Heat sensor in trans or trans cooler can be be malfunctioning and coolant temp fine.

This isn't a Range Rover, there's not THAT much clearance under the X5. You'll need to buy 4 jack stands so you can lift up the X5 evenly. That's the other important thing to note— the vehicle has to be level to do the fluid service correctly.

Interesting, i'll have to investigate. Makes sense because anything prior to 210* on the cluster, it shifts great. But if this is the case, the fluid will still need to be replaced because it's probably getting burnt

Looks like my next purchase :iagree:

Update: 02.08.17 - Transmission Service

New transmission filter, seals, pan gasket
It took 7 liters!
Shifts great. I'll report back on the 2-1 downshift, I haven't driven it far enough to get up to normal operating temperature.


Upcoming Maintenance:
[X] Brand new Continental DWS06 Tires 275/315
[X] Intake Filter replacement
[X] Oil Service
[X] Spark Plugs
[X] Ignition Coils + Boots
[X] DINAN Transmission Software
[X] Rear trunk deck lid lense
[X] Automatic trunk open springs
[X] Transmission Fluid service
[ ] Valve Cover Gasket Replacement
[ ] Replace wheel cap roundels - updated version
[ ] Full Paint Correction - Spring 2017
[ ] Headlight restoration - Spring 2017

:thumbup:

I'll be interested to hear how that works out for you. Mine has a harsh down shift too and I need to get this done here soon.

Okay so I was able to take the X for a long enough drive to get everything up to normal operating temps. New fluid and filter definitely helped. You can still "feel" the downshift but it's definitely not as harsh as it was before. I'll see what the wife thinks because she drives the vehicle daily currently around town.

Note: To my knowledge, old transmission fluid was ORIGINAL. Had never been serviced before. Upon inspection of the little magnetic on the oil pan, there was NO debris, metal flakes, etc. Filled with fresh ZF specific fluid, cleared adaptations, ran through all the gears (P,R,D,1,2,3,4,5), driven around the block. Back on the lift and topped off.

Next up: I have a small vaccuum leak somewhere. I may swap a MAF from my M5 (since I run Alpha N and it doesn't use the MAFs), and see if that helps. I think I have some CRC MAF cleaner laying around somewhere. The previous owner had an oiled intake filter that I threw away because it was gunked up and never serviced. If not, i'll have to do a smoke test. Even though we did one a few weeks ago and it yielded nothing. Could be fuel related?

Good to know, glad it helped out. Hopefully here in a few weeks I can get this hammered out. Need to work on the wife's car first.

Swapping the MAF might help. I had some harsh shifting and a pretty bad idle (sometimes the engine would stall) when I first got my 2000 540i touring. I bought a brand new Bosch MAF and that solved the issue completely. Nobody ever replaces the MAF so they do start acting up with age and mileage.

Yup I plan on swapping to see if that helps, but I have to wait a few days because I dont feel like wrenching outdoors when its 20* outside :rofl:

CIF - Your making good headway on your To Do List :thumbup:

Add fuel cleaner to your next tank. It can not hurt! There is so much trash in today's "winter gas" especially in Maryland and North.

If you pull your codes and look at the fault readings you should see the MAF fluctuations.

We did fuel cleaner last month. I don't have BMW Specific software to pull all the codes. I just have the Autolink AL319 one, the SES light is NOT on currently. You remember the engine gasping for air after we didnt the spark/coil replacement. Idle hunting.

It's not bad at all, I opened up the secret menu and the rpms fluctuate from about 500-700rpms at idle. Barely see the needle moving

Worked on taking apart the intake system and cleaning up the MAF sensor to see if that cures the idle bounce. I inspected all the intake hoses and the hose to the secondary airpump. No signs of tears or holes of any kind. Put everything back together and idle was steady around 600-625 using the secret menu (option 7). I'll continue to monitor but looks like the MAF just needed a cleaning.

Looks like I am off to the dealer for two airbox lid clips :yawn: Both fell down into the engine compartment. I couldn't find them at all looking from the top. Decided to remove the lower splash guard...What a PITA! Whoever designed that thing was a moron. Why must something be held on by six 10mm bolts, and eight 8mm bolts...To sum it all up, the clips weren't even down there...Oh well there goes another $8-10 to buy two new clips.

Been there and done that. The clips hang around and you will see them under the headlamps after receiving your new clips. I have a few extra now just for this reason. :rofl:

Yep, these X5's swallow up parts and tools like it's nothing. My 4.6 has eaten an o-ring, a valve cover + washer, a 10mm socket, and a 10mm/11mm ratcheting combo wrench. Neither have come out after 1000 miles of driving so they must be lodged in pretty deep.

Murphy's law of DIY: What you drop will delay the completion of the project. It will be a specialty item, cost will be shocking, something that has to be ordered, parts stores are closed or will require a search and drive that takes a minimum of four hours. You will not find the item or it will magically appear where you are positive you looked three to five times, that will be at least one day after the vehicle is back on the road. Footnote--Just before you drop the item you will say to yourself that you have to be very careful not to do so. And, if you buy only one replacement it is likely you will drop it again. If you buy more than one you will not drop it and never need the item again.

Well I ordered (3) airbox lid clips and (1) airbox mount. Looks like the airbox comes with two rubber mounts, mine was missing one. There is a lot of play/wiggle-room when the airbox is bolted down. Probably due to the missing mount. Another trip to the dealer, and another $12 :rofl:

:iagree:
Sounds like words of wisdom and experience :D

You're lucky that your dealer actually stocks that stuff. Neither of the 2 BMW dealers in the Phoenix area stock anything for my old BMWs— everything has to be shipped to the dealership. And if I have to wait multiple days for shipping I may as well order from an online store like FCP Euro and pay less.

SES keeps coming on for torque convertor stuck open....What's weird is, whenever I drive the vehicle, it never comes on. When the wife drives it, it's been coming on more frequently. I really can't afford to drop $$$ for a new transmission. I'll continue to monitor but this may be the last straw. :(:banghead::bawling:

- At a stand-still if I let off the gas, the vehicle moves/pulls away
- At rolling speed, if I take my foot off the gas pedal, the revs hold (slightly drop after a second)
- Transmission shifts fine, no slipping
- 2-1 downshift is much better since new fluid/filter and software. Still present but not as bad

I've read that I should address the TC sooner rather than later to not destroy the rest of the transmission? Most people buy re-man TC or new TC's, and others just buy a completely new transmission. Almost 130k on this transmission.

If she drives like mine, going with operator error, lol!

I feel your pain on this one. I know I will eventually have to come to the decision on the tranny. Mine isn't bad but it just doesn't feel 100% at times. I hope a flush helps some symptoms but I know it won't go forever. Love the X but just wish there was simple way to get a better tranny and have RWD only.

For the TC I know you can get remans or have yours rebuilt, but few shops are able to effectively do it. The 4.6is has a bigger TC and they are harder to source. The TC would be easier than a whole tranny so may be worth a shot to get a refresh one and see if it helps.

Yea I need to figure out what she is doing for the light to keep coming back on :bustingup I literally drove it 40 miles over the weekend with her in the vehicle and it never came on. I drove it all last week when she was away for work and it never came on. Past 2 days, it's come on twice for her. Only time it ever came on for me was going up an incline and I let off the gas to coast to a red light. So, I normally just stay lightly on the gas now on hills.

I do not feel the transmission slipping at all. No hard shifts into any gears. No clunking P-R-D/S.

Making the 4.6 RWD isn't as easy as the 4.8. I think you would need a modified driveshaft, possibly some coding?

I have not called around to see how much it is to rebuild the TC, but I'm not sure how I even feel about that. If it's going to cost $2-3k for new TC, you might as well spend the extra $1-2k for transmission as well? Either way, I am in no position to spend that. I am being pessimistic because I rather be surprised with it only being the TC and it being fairly cheap (relatively speaking).

I would do a remanufactured ZF5hp from ZF. You could change the TC but you will already have the trans out might as well do the reman Trans and keep rolling.

You can get a remanufactured Trans from ZF for about $3k which includes the rebuilt TC.

Have you had a diagnosis done by a local independent transmission shop that is familiar with the ZF5HP24 transmission?

Do you have a link for that? Only ZF reman transmissions I've seen are for about $4,100. I still have to call a few places.

Not yet, because I haven't found a good transmission shop around me. I'll have to ask around and see.

After some research, these are the place to possible get a reman transmission:
Go-Powertrain (Harrisonburg, VA)
ZFtranspart - Eriksson Industries (CT)
ImportPerformance - (Wayne, NJ)

Either way; right now, I can not afford a new transmission. :shakehead: Now, the SES light is off...

I went with GoPowertrain for the Remanufactured ZF trans

So, for 5 weeks the 4.6 has actually been behaving! Transmission/Torque Converter code has not comeback and overall has been a blast to drive. I drove it to work everyday last week, and no real issues. I periodically hook it up to the autolink to see if there are any codes/pending codes. To my surprise there was absolutely nothing. When I used to perform the I/M Readiness check, there would always be faults in the O2, Evap, Air, Cat, etc Now, all green check marks. I was actually surprised as hell and almost proud.

But of course when the beast starts to return some joy it takes some back. Started to notice during rainfall, water starting to leak through the homelink area??? I couldn't believe it. I removed the entire homelink unit, lights, and surrounding trim and I could not for the life of me figure out where the water was coming from? It's just an empty space up there. There is a startup squeak from time to time from the starter.

We recently acquired a 2011 X5 35d, so that'll be the new wife mobile. We got an excellent deal on it at our local dealership. Happy wife happy life.

FWIW, I tried to do the same. They told me the nearby factory where they get all the parts was shut down for retooling. They have no ZF transmissions and no ETA. I would have LOVED to get one from them though. I ended up going with Eriksson Industries bc I had little other choice. This extended the down time since they take in your core, rebuild it, send it back. That process alone was at least 3 weeks maybe 4 with shipping. My E53 was out of commission for 4-5 weeks.

Now, having said all of THAT... The damn thing is awesome. Not just the drive. Which is SO way better. But the *knowing*, ya know? Like I *know* that damn transmission will shift. Well.. let's be truthful. I *expect* it to shift the way it's supposed to. And THAT expectation is VERY different from what it once was.

Before the transmission swap, I always had a bit o that 'Bimmer' worry in the back of my head. I would think like we all do.. not 'what if' it screws up.. but *when* it screws up. It was today.. I think.. Hot shift at highway speed. Maybe 6-5. Everything felt exactly like it used to when the old unit would slip. Catch. Jerk. Whatever. And that uncertainty about 'when it'll mess up' is getting less and less certain. It's changing the pleasure with which I enjoy the ride. It's removing the big ole 'But' from driving this car. There is no longer a 'but'. There is only... Oh.. hell.. yes.

For the E53 pundits out there... And even for them that long for the 'old days' of reliable Bimmers- which never existed. People like to say that BMW's used to be reliable the same way everything used to be better than it is today. 'Old timer-itis' I say.

This is the *THIRD* BMW transmission I have replaced. The first? My 1975 2002 with just a tinge over 100k. (sound familiar?) It should. BC that transmission was the FIRST time I replaced it. Less than 5 years later.. I replaced it again under warranty. And all of THAT was after I'd already replaced the motor with less than 110k.

Let's hope that THIS transmission gives me another 25 years of service like the 2nd one did in the '02. But let's do us the favor not to fool ourselves into thinking that a company built on performance ever once suggested the cars are anywhere close to reliable.

On the other hand, my transmission is going strong after 117,000 miles. I drive hard and the transmission is handling much more HP and TQ than stock.

04.01.17 - Interior Vacuum Time!

Decided to take the seats out and vacuum the interior, not as dirty as I suspected. Only found $0.36 under the seats. Taking the driver & passenger seats are very straight forward. (4) 5/8 (16mm?) bolts, (2) bolt caps, seat belt harness bolt and the electric harness. Surprisingly the seats weren't as heavy as I thought they would be. I'm pretty sure my previous E83 X3 and current E39 M5 seats are heavy. Haven't tested the E70 seats, but I would image those bad boys are heavy!

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/a...pst16nphel.jpg

On a positive note, the transfer case code as not been back in weeks! Maybe that transmission fluid/filter service worked? I still get the 2-1 downshift lurch but have learned how to minimize it coming to a stop (again in sport mode, it doesn't happen). I tend to drive the 4.6 about 3-4 days out of the week to work. I would still like to do the VCG job but I am on the fence about doing it because everyone says to just do the timing chain guides as well since you are 1/3 of the way there. TCG is a very invasive and expensive job, and after dumping a ton of money into this thing over the first 2 months of ownership, I have a sour taste in my mouth.

I would also like to address the suspension: rear passenger side squats like a fat lady - possible upper control arm? Front looks like I have positive camber? Afraid to bring it to a shop in fear they will tell me I need a complete suspension overhaul! But I think if anything the engine stuff needs to be prioritized first.

Suspension is no biggie. Take care of all the engine stuff like the leaks, timing chain guides and timing chain. Then you can come back to the suspension.

You say you get a rough 2-1 downshift. How rough? Mine is almost painful, ha. I hate coming to a stop!

Well it can definitely be bad at times, but I've learned to pretty much coast to a stop keeping the rpms around 1k and easing to a stop and it's a lot better.

I will give that a go, mine once up to temp feels like I've either been rear ended or I've slammed the brakes for a split second.

Engine or transmission problems that aren't corrected quite often lead to much more costly issues. I would visit a well recommended independent transmission shop familiar with BMW transmission for a diagnosis.

Do as CleanIsFast suggests. Come to a complete stop everytime you drive it. Or manually shift and leave stop signs in second gear. Either way you will not experience the rear ended feel. I had the same problem in the last X5 I had. Sold it to my brother in law under instructions to drive it the way I described... no problems since.

I also used to experience a delay when shifting into reverse. I think that is also fairly common when experiencing the "kick in the rear" problem. I believe solenoids fixed the issue for a couple of people on the forums. I'll try solenoids first before buying a whole transmission if the 4.8is ever experiences an issue. :thumbup:

When you changed your trans fluid you used about 7 liters? I recall that when I did the flush on mine it was close to 13L due to the TC.

Yes it took a lot, at least 7L to 8L

I replaced the transmission valve body and did not have any issues with this for the rest of the time I owned the vehicle. I think the cost of the part was $2,300 from BMW however my indy picked it up directly from the distributor for $550. This was on my 2000 4.4.

It's just very hard to pinpoint what is exactly wrong. Some people say a fluid/filter changed cured, others say wire harness replacement, solenoids, complete torque converter replacement, complete transmission replacement, valve body megatronic, aftermarket oil coolers, etc

Most people just replace the entire transmission because it has new components of everything listed above (minus the aftermarket cooler). Pay once and it's all over with or risk trying to replace one item and hope for the best. It's tough because you have to pretty much drain the fluid out to do anything, and the fluid is expensive as-is.

I'm surprised that after all of these years and the number of occurrences that a common cause has not been identified. Surely this one problem can't be problems which were addressed by these fixes.

Might try to PM to RRPhil. I think he is the best here as it relates to transmission problems.

Yes RRPhil would be the best resource especially on the rebuild side. Pitty he is not in the US

Yesterday I took the 4.6 for a nice long (& spirited drive). What a machine....I eventually tried sport mode with manual shifting. This is the first time I've summed up the courage to try the manual shifting and to my surprise, it shifted flawless with no slipping, noises, etc from 1-2-3-4-5 and back down. Wondering If I just drive this way all the time and when coming to a stop just leave it in 2nd and see if the downshift lurch stays away.

At some point that Tranny will have to to come down to address its problems. But until then enjoy it in sport mode.

Does anyone know if the oil temp on the cluster is in *F while everything else is in *C? I was curious to see at what temperature the 2-1 lurch occurs and usually it's right before dead center (or "normal operating temperature"). But when I looked at the secret menu option #16 it's saying OELTEMP: 93*C? Why would the cluster say almost 210 (center). I did the conversion from *C to *F and it's pretty damn close which leads me to believe the cluster is in *F for oil temp.

Cluster is Fahrenheit. Don't know for sure why the conversion, have assumed it is converted in cluster for US vehicles.

Weird that they changed it, mine says 100 dead centre.

Well 100*C would be 212*F (dead center is about 210). So makes sense

So the 2-1 starts around 90*C

Am I confused? Are talking about engine oil temp and its relationship to how the transmission downshifts from second to first? If I am not confused, why do you think there is a connection between engine oil temp and 2-1 transmission lurch?

Yes the engine temp.

Because the 2-1 downshift lurch is not present until right around "normal operating temp" in my case. Not sure why, but that's what I've noticed.

This is exactly the same for me, absolutely fine until full temp.

Correlation is that both heat up to the designed temperatures as the engine runs. The transmission temperature is independently managed. If the 2-1 lurch is temperature related it would be related to the temperature of the transmission fluid. If the transmission is overheating the usual symptom is that it begins to have a mind of its own, downshifts for no reason or stays in a particular gear.

Some have corrected 2-1 problem by changing the fluid, adding fluid because it is low or an EGS update. For others the problem was internal.

I have already replaced the transmission fluid and filter. About 2,000 miles ago. Symptoms is the same before and after.

Possibly a bad wire harness transmitting bad temp readings?

If you did not replace the mechatronic harness sealing sleeve it would be a good idea. The shop I was at would not do trans service without also replacing that seal.

Original Poster I believe does not have the 6-speed Auto Trans so no Mechatronic with sealing sleeve. He has the 4.6is with 5-speed trans

Jay is correct, 4.6iS so only a 5-speed here (5HP24)

After reading this, I am more inclined to say it's a temperature thing with these transmissions: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...-solution.html

Even after TC replacement, he was still having the 2-1 downshift. So, I've seen aftermarket coolers help along with different thermostats.

I am certainly not a transmission expert but from my experience the symptoms don't really match up with bad temp sensor. However, I would eliminate the potential of an overheating problem by reading the pan temperature with an infrared heat reading tool after a few miles of driving.

There is wiring harness that goes into the transmission pan that does have a temp sensor on it that sometimes fail. It a fairly easy DIY but I wouldn't go there without more troubleshooting. And, there are other reasons the transmission could be overheating, if in fact, you verify that is the case.

As an aside, how did you verify the transmission is filled to the proper level?

I mean I have to have some sort of trust in my local mechanic that he knows what he is doing. It took about 7-8L when it was refilled. Properly filled going through all the gears, driving, back on the lift and fillled again until overflow.

Not challenging, thought is a good idea to make sure since low fluid can cause your symptoms. You mention driving in the process. The second fill should be done at or very close to 140 degrees.

+1 - if the second fill to obtain the correct level was after driving (even a short distance) then the fluid is likely to be too hot for a correct level check and the level will be slightly low.

Okay, I ordered another liter of ZF AT Fluid and will top off (if necessary). I still don't think it'll aleviate the issue but cost of 1 liter is worth a try. :thumbup:

Also ordered a cabin filter to replace the old one. Just in time for pollen season.

Cabin filter replaced (amazing how big it is). Still waiting for a day to get underneath the beast and possibly top off the transmission fluid (if needed). I also ordered a blackstone oil lab kit for next oil service. Possibly get a quick oil analysis to see the relative health of the motor without dropping the oil pan.

Vehicle still pulls like a freight train. No real chain slap or "marble in can" noises at all. I have a startup squeal from the starter so that'll have to be replaced sometime soon. A bit embarassing having the startup squeak in public...Other times it starts up perfect - super quiet.

Okay these quotes are from the 4.6iS Registry thread. I didn't want to muddy up that thread about transmission woes.

""

Basically just need to get some software and look at the readings. But here is another wrench I'll throw in that I noticed today and it was a bit shocking.

So it was about 95*F yesterday so obviously I had the A/C on in the vehicle. I noticed on the way to work that the 2-1 downshift lurch wasn't there anymore. Completely gone, baffled...Then I thought to myself "well maybe the vehicle didn't get up to normal operating temperature 100%" - which could be possible since it's only about a 12 mile drive to work.

Figured I'd see if the same thing occured on the way back home that evening. Same scenario, blazing outside, A/C on. This time stuck in DC metro traffic (car fire on the highway), two lanes were closed off so it took a lot longer to get home. Vehicle was definitely up to normal operating temperature. Again, the 2-1 downshift lurch wasn't there...So, once I got off the highway I turned off the A/C and continued to drive as normal. Lo and behold...it came back!

My assumption, the A/C unit when on keeps the rev's slightly higher which 'somewhat' cured the transmission 2-1 downshift??? I highly doubt the A/C is cooling the transmission or transmission thermostat. This brings me back to - when the vehicle is in 'sport mode' the 2-1 downshift lurch is not there at all either. My assumption is that 'sport mode' keeps the rev's slightly higher as well. But the 2-1 downshift isn't present until 'normal operating temp' as well, any temp before and it's not there at all.

Maybe my vehicle is idling too low? Maybe I can program the rev's to be slightly higher?

The transmission operating temp is reached in very few miles or idle time. I don't think idle or A/C is part of the problem. I doubt that it has anything to do with trans temp. But, as suggested, use a infrared temp tool to read trans fluid temp cold and let it idle for 10 minutes and read it again. Normal operating temperature ranges from 176-212 F. Start by reading temp, easiest and cheapest thing to do. It is not unusual that the 2-1 rough shift does not happen in sport mode.

What you're describing is quite common, actually. My 540it had the 2-1 downshift lurch when I bought it last year, mostly because the seller kept the AC off. Once I turned the AC on I never experienced that shifting issue ever again. I keep my AC on 24/7/365 so that's a permanent fix for me.

I'm sure if I went outside and drove my 4.6 with the AC off I'd get the same downshift lurch despite having a rebuilt transmission with a new torque converter.

That's not normal, problem is still there just masked. Air conditioner on is just covering it up.

I agree, just seems very odd

Get some actual temp of coolant. I had some horrible engine performance problems when my thermostat soft failed. I only knew it failed when the ambient temp dropped low enough the heater no longer warmed the cabin. Turned out my thermometer effectively opened at 65C vs 90C and because of the utterly moronic non gauge that looks like a gauge but functions like an idiot light (by snapping to 12 o'clock position between 60 and 110°C) it's worse than useless for determining anything useful. Use hidden odometer functions to read engine temp and if possible oil or transmission temp


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Coolant temp is good, I checked to make sure my thermostat was working properly. I checked the secret menu (option 7 I believe) and thermostat is in proper working order.