![]() |
Stiffening plate removal / reinstallation
I'm in the process of investigating a potential new oil leak, and looking at the necessity of removing the stiffening plate to see where the oil is coming from. I know I have weeping power steering lines, which I intend to replace over the Thanksgiving weekend. I have also seen what appears to be oil on the ground, dripping from the front opening in the stiffening plate. What I'm curious about is, could this fluid dripping from this front opening simply be old oil (from previous oil leaks which I fixed), being mixed with ATF from my power steering lines, since the foam on top of the stiffening plate can hold quite a bit of oil itself?
Now my question: I understand the bolts for the stiffening plate are one-time-use, torque to yield bolts. Should I also buy new nuts for these bolts? Any advice / tips on removal and replacement of the stiffening plate is greatly appreciated. :thumbup: EDIT: Please only feedback if you've replaced the bolts / nuts for your stiffening plate. I understand this is a matter of personal preference, and have no desire whatsoever to re-start the argument of whether this is necessary. Having worked in the plant where my X was built for nearly 15 years, I have my own opinion on the matter, and feel no obligation to argue the point. Thanks. |
I would be more than interested to hear your opinion on this Gary - even if it means using different bolts and nuts on reassembly (i.e. Replacing with non one time use units)
|
Quote:
It is only the bolts that are supposed to strech when tightened to torque spec. not the nuts. So i would assume that you could re-use the nuts. That been said, if i were convinced that i needed to replace the bolts, i would go all the way and replace the nuts too. When you remove & replace the plate, you will notice that there isn't much space to get your tools in place. But with a little fidgeting it is a relatively easy task. Make sure you have enough working space under the car to loosen the old and tighten the new bolts with quite a bit of torque. (stage 1: 56 Nm, stage 2: +90 degrees) Edit: I almost forgot.. If you find that pesky oil leak, please let us know where it was. I have that same oil drip from the front of my pan. :) |
RB, the car was designed with TTY bolts for a reason. I'm not privy to the design reasoning for this, nor do I wish to be. I'm an electrical engineer by degree, not a mechanical engineer, so such topics are beyond my education and experience.
I have no problem replacing all 6 bolts and nuts, and I'm only really curious about whether the nuts should be replaced as well. DISCLAIMER: Opinions are always welcome. Flames > /dev/null :rofl: |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
I use an offset box end wrench to get the nuts off. It's long enough that I can wedge it against something and just remove the bolts with a ratchet.
|
I have done this twice. A second set of hands to hold the lower wrench is the issue as the bolt faces upwards (nut on top of the plate). If you use a long ratchet handle it is real easy. Replacement is a challenge as you need to hold 23# of plate up as you install the first one. Hence the second set of arms/hands solution.
I voted to replace both nuts and bolts. Oil leak will be Alt/Oil filter housing and P/S hoses. God help you if it is the oil pan too. |
Quote:
And I also agree with Stephen, hoping its just your PS hoses but didn't you say you did your OFHG last year? If not, that's probably it - and God help you, like he said, if its the oil pan |
Quote:
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:46 AM. |
vBulletin, Copyright 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.0
© 2017 Xoutpost.com. All rights reserved.