I'm a bit late to this particular party, as I am to most, but I believe the bolt on the swing arm (#18 in the image below) changes the camber. The toe adjust is on the front upper arm (#7).



https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...suspension.png

Made by the cheapest process since they are not BMW original part AKA Cheap China made crap. Since you want to drive the "Ultimate Driving SUV". I would go with the polyurethane bushings. Had poly in my X when I had the X and the ride never appeared any harsher than previously.

Now my Lotus with Heim jointed suspension that a different story.

Rock Auto lists Lemforder bushes - shirley they're good enough quality?

If someone buy the bushings they can post the country of manufacture. I’m guessing it is going to be China.

Not according to NEWTIS. Camber is controlled by the control arms, toe by swing arms. In the rear.

That contradicts the Bentley manual?


https://i.postimg.cc/dZY79HQy/IMG-1384.jpg

Yes, correct. That great diagram is even accurate enough to show that the bolts and washers are eccentric. Those are the places where the adjustments are made.

Of course, with suspensions there is almost always some cross-coupling between adjustments, so camber adjustment may also change toe a little. So on these cars, the spec is to set camber first, then toe.

And failed components away from the adjustment points can cause the problems. Even as my 2001 3.0i approaches 200k miles, many components are still doing fine in there. But the ball joints (#2 in the diagram) were severely deteriorated around 170k miles when I replaced them due to increased tire wear and un-correctable camber.

My forward upper control arms = "guide links" = #6 in the diagram were inspected and are still working fine as originals. Swing arm bushings in part #15 are too, but if I had known the bushings were available separately, I probably would have replaced them due to being in there.

Interestingly enough, yes, it is contradicted by the section of Newtis I looked at. I'll have to dig deeper.

I’ve just tried reducing my rear camber and can’t get it to less than about 2.8 degrees. What’s the wear/failure mode of that #2 ball joint? And any idea how much replacing it changed your rear camber?

It will be pretty quick to just look under your car. Very clear which are the eccentric bolts - as discussed above.