DIY: 36-mm Axle Nut using floor jack anyone?
 

I just saw this on youtube and wonder if anyone has used this trick for the old-school 36-mm axle nut.
I understand that one can use air tool, 4-foot long pipe, even driving the car with the breaker bar on concrete etc., but this trick is very cool to me.

I certainly will try this floor jack trick at the next axle job but just wondering if anyone has done this using floor jack (of course, you want to use penetrating fluid such as PB Blaster and some heat)...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OIpj5mmmLs

I prefer standing on a cheater bar (pipe), since the axle nut is exposed.

But yes, I have used that trick (jacking up the breaker bar) when underneath the car, when it is not feasible to fit a cheater bar in there, or stand on it. Works great, just like in the video. Jacks obviously can put out a lot of force.

I've also got a torque multiplier, but as long as the thing you're working on is exposed (like an axle nut) you don't need that - but that has not always stopped me from using it anyway.

In my 1998 Volvo S70 GLT, if I stand on the end of the 4-foot long pipe (breaker bar inside the pipe), then the axle nut comes loose.
I am about 140lb so: 140lb x 4ft = roughly 560 ft*lb of torque will undo the axle nut on the Volvo.

Most breaker bar is about 18" long or 1.5ft, a floor jack can easily lift 1000 lb, so even with conservative estimate, this floor jack trick can put out 1,500 ft*lb of torque!

Theoretically; but you're going to shear the pin in the head of the breaker bar long before you reach that kind of torque.

I use a 3/4" cheater bar reduce down to 1/2" so that I can use my 1/2" 36mm impact socket on the axle nut. Rather than using my hydraulic jack, I use the handle from the hydraulic jack on the 3/4" cheater bar to remove the axle nut. With the hydraulic jack handle on the cheater bar I have a 4 feet moment arm at the socket. Even with a 300 ft lb torque on an axle nut I only need to exert a force of 75 ft lb. at the end of the bar to loosen the nut, or I take out my impact which can develop a torque of 700 ft lb.

Over the years I used 1/2 inch socket + breaker bar but recently I bought 3/4 inch socket + breaker bar, it feels much more solid.

I also posted this on Volvo forum, and people say this trick works!

I use a 40.00 Harbor Freight Electric Impact gun. I just used it a week or so ago when trying to remove my outer joint (could not get the hub off at the time). Granted, it turned very slowly, but it was very rusted on. And I did this with the wheel already jacked up. I am yet use an air powered gun since I still can not make up my mind on which one, so I bought this in the meantime. I am only posting this since others may not want to buy an air compressor etc, and may want to know if there are other options that take less space and cost much less money. 40.00 with 20% off coupon that are everywhere.

I have a 1/2"drive 18 volt impact that I use for getting the wheels off and spinning the lug nuts back on, but when it come to an axle nut, the big cheater bar or an air impact is the only way to go.

I m surprised your electric impact will not do the axle nut. Mine does, but then again, it is only about 2 years old or so.

My Harbor Freight $39 air impact gun has loosened all four of my axle nuts.

Now putting them back on with that 300 ft pounds or so is another story! :wow:

Mike