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-   -   Pixelfix (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/106255-pixelfix.html)

wpoll 05-15-2017 04:44 PM

Isn't one of the steps to drill a hole or two in the cluster to access a couple of hidden screws? I'm sure I saw that in one of the DIY videos... :dunno:

I have three columns out on my MID but it's not getting any worse and it doesn't affect most text displays -but I will drop in the pixelfix silver cable sometime soon though.

*edit* here's a walk through from a 7 series forum - pretty sure the cluster is very similar: -

PIXEL FIX DIY write up, about a 2 hour job and some patience (Long pic warning)

I also found this note note on here (from TrickerZ)...

"Drilling the holes is the easiest option so you don't have to mess with the needles. If you really want to do it without drilling holes, you need to take pliers and grab the shaft of each needle from behind right between the motor and the PCB and then pull the cap off (try not to twist too much or you'll screw up the spring). To make it easier to replace the needles, move the needle (usually has to be pulled past the little pin) counter clockwise until you feel it stop. Once you know where the needle should be at the stop, you can line it up at that stop when reinstalling it. Otherwise you have to run the car and calibrate it. RPM, fuel and coolant are easy, the MPG and speedo are difficult. RPM should read about 500 at idle when the car is warm, coolant should be in the middle when car is warm and fuel should be at full when the tank is full. You would need GPS or someone driving beside you to calibrate speed and MPG is pretty much impossible I think. I guess you could floor it before taking it out and see where it peaks and make note of that, then try it after installing the needle and see if it ends up in the same spot. "

williamx5 05-15-2017 10:03 PM

Good day!!

I did this on my 2001 540i... I pulled the needles off and damaged a couple springs... I happen to have another cluster from an older 97 in my vast collection of BMW parts... I pulled the needles off the motors, leaving the shafts in the motors which keeps the springs perfect... I had to crush the needle plastic at the pin to remove the needle without moving the pin in the motor... I replaced the motors on my original board and used the original needles (after pulling the shafts from them)... I made a note of where the needles pointed prior to starting... I got them really close once I was done... The only issue I had was pushing the needle on the fuel gauge motor ended up pushing the needle into the motor more... It caused an interference somehow and it hangs at 3/4 a tank... I can tap on the dash lightly and it moves to it's correct spot... 1/2 to empty is perfect...

I took pictures, but I will need to find them if anyone wants to see... I did the cluster and midi... The midi didn't hold... I have two rows out again... The cluster is perfect still...

Cheers all!!

tmv 05-15-2017 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jontezan (Post 1108963)
What do you mean with "drilling into" like using a drilling machine? The guides i have watched doesnt involve a drilling machine [emoji41]

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Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1109023)
Isn't one of the steps to drill a hole or two in the cluster to access a couple of hidden screws? I'm sure I saw that in one of the DIY videos... :dunno:

I don't know about another method, but the one I used was drilling holes into the cluster, in order to expose the screw head for the display screen.

jontezan 05-16-2017 02:34 AM

I have ordered a set of needle removal tools. The drilling adds risks to. I think if i hold the shaft with the tool there aint going to do any damage to the needle motor. I will found out soon when the parts arrive [emoji1]


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jontezan 05-17-2017 07:25 AM

Pixelfix
 
Today i recieved the package. I ordered a ribbon cable attached to a new lcd for the instrument cluster. This is going to be nervwrecking! Stay tuned [emoji41]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0d27d74472.jpg

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jontezan 05-22-2017 02:31 PM

Finished the job today. The gauge needles came of easy with the counterholding tool. I put most of the time on cleaning the connector surfaces for the new ribbon cable. It took me about 2.5 hours to complete it. Look at the result! Happy camper! [emoji1][emoji106]
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a462a9828b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...987d9f26d4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...09fe24c548.jpg


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williamx5 05-22-2017 03:00 PM

Good day!!

Looks great!!! Very nicely done!! Which tool is the holder tool?? I need to get one!! Were the needles correct after you got it back out on the road?? I did this to the E39 cluster, but they are a dime a dozen in the YPIY here... The 4.6is version is a little more scarce!!! Great idea with the tape!! I think I might have to use that!! Thanks!!!

Cheers!!!

jontezan 05-22-2017 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by williamx5 (Post 1109547)
Good day!!



Looks great!!! Very nicely done!! Which tool is the holder tool?? I need to get one!! Were the needles correct after you got it back out on the road?? I did this to the E39 cluster, but they are a dime a dozen in the YPIY here... The 4.6is version is a little more scarce!!! Great idea with the tape!! I think I might have to use that!! Thanks!!!



Cheers!!!



Thx! I havent driven the car yet. I have started it and the rpm, watertemp, fuel and oiltemp seems to work as before. Water and fuel doesnt have mechanical stops built in, therefore it is nessesary to mark the position before removal. I posted earlier a picture of the recieved parts, the holding tool is the one that looks like an icecream stick with a little cut out in one side. The oiltemp needle doesnt need counterhold. I ordered a cable with a new lcd. The new lcd has a glossy finish, where the old one was matte. I ordered from pixelfix.net, the package came with instruction booklets. [emoji1]


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williamx5 05-22-2017 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jontezan (Post 1109548)
Thx! I havent driven the car yet. I have started it and the rpm, watertemp, fuel and oiltemp seems to work as before. Water and fuel doesnt have mechanical stops built in, therefore it is nessesary to mark the position before removal. I posted earlier a picture of the recieved parts, the holding tool is the one that looks like an icecream stick with a little cut out in one side. The oiltemp needle doesnt need counterhold. I ordered a cable with a new lcd. The new lcd has a glossy finish, where the old one was matte. I ordered from pixelfix.net, the package came with instruction booklets. [emoji1]


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That is what I figured... The red tool didn't look long enough... Do you prefer the matte finish or your new shiny LCD??

Cheers!!!

740iS 05-22-2017 03:27 PM

God kväll,

Grattis, det ser bra ut.


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