anyone replace their inner tie rod?
 

I tried searching but it says "tie" and "rod" are too short haha.

I took my 01 3.0 x5 in for an alignment and they called me saying I needed a new rack/pinion to the tune of $1600 lol. um no. I went to pick it up and then go order a new rack to install and just real quick asked them why I needed one when it wasnt leaking or anything...

they said the inner tie rod was worn out and not allowing any adjustment and that its integral with the rack. ok...

So I was looking online and I can buy the inner and outer tie rods...anyone done this or is it really a sealed unit?

I've replaced inner tie rods before and the bmw service manual I have does say in section 320-17 that it can be replaced with a "special service tool 32 2 160" which looks like a crows foot to me. The other tool "special service tool 32 2 110" looks like a wire on the end of a piece of metal. I can probably just use a small allen wrench to lock whatever I need in place.

I can get the inner/outer tie rods from the parts store for $60 for the set but if it "shouldnt/cant" be replaced, the rack is only $240. just looking for advice either way...

looked on youtube at a couple bmw tie rod videos as well as online at the actual tie rods. looks even easier than most. just a big wrench to pop the inner one loose. :rolleyes: standard tools for the outer one.

Based on what you said in post #1, I would re-start the analysis with the assumption that anything the shop told you should not be trusted.

I would say get a second opinion first. Then visit your indy (not the dealer) for an accurate inspection.

I've done both sides on mine, with new boots too.

All you need is a giant wrench and a ball joint separator. A pipe-wrench might even work in a pinch, although that would be the tool of last resort/not recommended.

Hardest part of this job was tensioning the inner boot clamps.

already got the driver side off. it definitely wobbled front/rear when wiggling the wheel before taking it off. probably my wobble I felt when hard braking. the passenger side wobbled but just barely. though I could grip them and turn them easily by hand. either way both sides are worn out. already have new rods on order for friday morning.

I have a newborn otherwise I would have jacked it up in the air a little while ago and figured out what was going on but instead, "family issues" arose so I used it as an excuse to take it to the alignment shop and let them diagnose/misdiagnose the issue for me.

aside from them telling me the rack was bad and not serviceable (probably trying to make a quick buck but whatever) they were spot on. everything else was fine. hell, even the dust boots on the tie rods are still intact so I'll re-use them.

took 15 minutes to pop the driver side off only because I had to use an allen wrench to hold the outer tie rod mount in place it was that loose in the socket :rolleyes:

I did both inner tie rods as well as the outer tie rods on the Soccer Mom Minivan. Bought a tool on Amazon that looks like a muffler clamp with a cut out for a 3/8" breaker bar. Used a cheater pipe with the breaker bar to unscrew the inner tie rod off the steering rack. There may be a bent over tab washer that has to be straightened in order to remove the inner tie rod from the rack. Use a little blue locktite on the new inner tie rod to rack connection. There are a couple of videos on Youtube showing this tool in action. I rented an inner tie rod removal tool set from Advance auto part, but couldn't get the outer tie rod off the inner tie rod so I wasn't able slip the tool onto the inner tie rod. With the tool I bought you don't need to take the outer tie rod off the inner tie rod in order to loosen the inner tie rod off the rack. Also by removing both inner and outer tie rod, I just measured the distance for the assembly and install the new assembly with the same measurement thus saving me from having to get an alignment right away.

Are inner tie rods a common failure?

I'm planning my suspension overhaul and was wondering if I should just do the outer tie rods. No slack or noise from mine and just thinking if it aint broke don't fix it? Would save couple bucks as well just getting the outer. Never had any of my cars fail on the inner.

I completely forgot about this thread haha.


I wouldnt say its common but they are still a movable joint. they arent that expensive and you are going to have to have the alignment done once you do the outers anyway so why not?


at this point, I'm getting ready to do both sets of lower control arms because those are completely toasted. I just wish...when I take it in for an alignment they find ALL of the issues at the same time so I dont have to keep peacemealing it all back together. my back cant take this crap haha.

Don't touch the outers unless you plan on getting it aligned afterwards
Usually the 1st time one replaces them is from new and they are either seized or supposedly seized....well, standing there for 10+ minutes with a torch is time/money.

I usually spray a little fluid film once a year just to mitigate this and if I plan to do a alignment, I always spray some kreep oil on the areas the alignment guy will need to touch just to make things as smooth as possible - oftentimes I'll spray like 2-3 times a week in advance.