I could see the bumps in the abs ring. One side is supposed to have a wider chamfer to help get it centered / started. All bets are on the back band towards the car centerline

Thanks Crowz and Andrewwynn. That's how I installed the bearing. I just finished front right side. The left side will be for tomorrow.

While I was removing the old bearing using my 20-ton press, I forgot about the loud bang when bearing releases . . . scared the shit out of me :yikes::lmao:

Also, half of the bearing race stayed on the hub. I have to slightly cut it using a dremel without leaving a mark on the hub. I then use a torch to help expand and split the journal. Once it is split, I use a cold chisel to walk it out of the hub.


One important thing when pressing the new bearing on the spindle especially with a press . . . when it is about to hit bottom, keep a watchful eye on it and make sure it is close to or fully seated. Try fitting the wheel sensor making sure it does not rub against the bearing.

Wheel bearing job from hell.....
 

I did my first one at 11pm in the dark alley. Imagine MY SURPRISE.

BETTER: I preloaded with 10,000# more than the push rod was designed and it didn't move: until i heated it to about 240°F and THEN the BANG! I was sure the knuckle split.

I didn't just get the one bang. Since I was using a threaded rod press, I got bang-bang-bang-bang. The secondary bangs were not as loud.


I used to use that method now I use my 4.5" right angle grinder and cut parallel to the hub face to make a 1/16" slot in the bearing race that I can use a chisel to push the race off. No heat needed.

That is the normal for the bearing. The inner race will always stay behind.

The Honda Odyssey Front bearing is fun to watch.

Without the use of any press...

These guys should have use a piece of wood to hold the spindle while banging it out...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edabaqTXBYw


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For the OUTER Race, I wonder if we can use a small angle grinder or dremel and cut a 45-degree groove (making sure you do not go through the racer and cut into the spindle), deep enough to make it weak, then bang it out using cold chisel?

I found the answer to the OUTER Race inside the spindle, this guy used a "rotary tool" (probably angle grinder with small blade or dremel) and make a 45-degree cut, then tap it out...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nifUUKDMiw


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Same principle applies. I use my 30T bearing press and my 760 ft·lb impact to knock out the bearing. Clever to use a Dremel if you don't have the tool but I wouldn't hammer the new bearing in.

Actually...

- Few people own a press, so dremel 45-degrees should help removal.

- New bearing: use installation tool or, actually if you have a big socket or old bearing OUTER race, gently hammer it in as long as you hammer the outer race, it will be fine.

Many people remove/install bearing with little understanding of how bearing works. If people do a bit of reading then they will know the "dos and don'ts".