ARE THESE PLUGS NORMAL??
 

I removed these plugs at 34,500 . The motor is 234,5K total miles. I still get very smooth acceleration, no excessive oil burning, smooth idle and good mpg. Are these normal wear for this condition? I am trying to figure out if I still have good combustion and no coolant leakage into cylinders before I invest in intake/ccv,vaccum lines etc. Waiting for friend to help with compression test.
Thanks
Attachment 72840

Attachment 72841

Attachment 72842
Hope I ddi this right. Thanks again.

Some of them seem quite dirty (at least on the threads).

Did you by any chance keep track of which is which (cylinder number)?

The electrode on some does seem a bit short but that might be normal, you'd neet to compare with a new one.

Yes, they go 6 -1 left to right in the pic. The clean one was wiped. It may be that I used to much anti seize when I put them in. I don't recall the electrode sticking out. I'll check the parts. Thanks. But is the light brown/whitish normal?

https://www.amazon.com/Laser-Platinu...3.0+sparkplugs
Found these on Amazon. NGK's. Notice even the BMW OEM the electrode doesn't extrude beyond the ceramic casing.
I wonder if I am running lean and hot. Even though I have never over heated.

On the pictures, yours seem to be recessed but that may be perspective.

as for the color, mine were the same, I'm not expert enough on modern engines (give me an old aircooled and its an other story) but brown usually is good.

Knowing if you're running lean or rich need looking at the fuel trims with an OBDII since the ECU will adapt the mixture to run correctly.

Do you have an issue you're trying to pinpoint or are you worrying because of mileage?

The color looks perfect to me. No oil residue and if you were lean you would experience knock and the plugs would look like peppered.

:iagree::thumbup:

Ok, than I guess I can proceed with the intake manifold / ccv, vacuum line updates going forward. I was concerned because I have high mileage.I think I was concerned about coolant leaking into a cylinder or two. But I have been very good about maintaining the vehicle. Thanks.

My 2004 325xi has 296,000 runs like a Swiss watch. Power on brother

WOW, that's what I am talking about. I think I should replace those block water hoses , they're original. Did you have any issues with abs/speed sensors? Are yours original?

They look good, used yes

Yes; these look fine to me.

We do not speak of things that are original & still working! :rofl: In all seriousness, no issues with the abs sensors, they are in fact original. Mostly the normal maintenance stuff.

Plug color for your application is NORMAL.

The only way to read plugs correctly is to do a drive cycle, kill the engine and pull the plugs. The tip and porcelain can be read as if you were reading snow fall. Just the top layer is the last run. If you would run Highway speeds for 1 hr and then pull the plugs, you would see a whiter ceramic and less "brown colors". Idling, short trips, colder weather, etc. All of this will create a colder running plug like you see in your pictures. All is NORMAL.

Replace them (Pick a brand you like), add a DOT of anti seize on the thread shell, check the gaps on the plugs before install (.032"), use a torque wrench set at 20-22LBS and ignore anyone who tells you differently as they have no experience in the plug world other than screwing them in and allowing someone else later on to pull them out, threads and all.

Tip: Change your plugs to the later technology fine wire single side strap as this will provide a better idle and tip in acceleration. Example NGK Iridium Xi plugs. Yes, there is a small improvement in fuel economy when compared to other multi-prong plug brands. No there is no horse power gains as all you are really doing is providing the engine power cycle with a clean longer burn time in mil secs. Yes, emissions gets better as a bonus if you are worried that your X5 is killing your local snail darter population or tree owls. ;)

Drive on

Colors in pictures are dependent on photo lighting, the software used to transfer it to a posting file and the device each of us use to view your pictures.

That said the engine could be lean. I think if the engine was running rich it would be apparent from the photos so I don't think the engine is running rich. If the colors of each one is the same that's good. If none of them show oil that's great.

Based on my monitor the air/fuel mixture is fine but if you are concerned I would show them to a local tech to read.

Just did the compression test. May have messed up. Does the engine have to be warm? Mine was 50's cold from last night. From 1-6 this was my reading: 120, 90, 100., 100, 120, 70,
ouch. How can this explain puurfect idle, smooth acceleration, mo major oil burning.
Weird. What did I do wrong?

I'm guessing that's PSI?

Did you have the throttle fully opened?

All these values seem low, should be > 140 if memory serves.

The engine should be warm so that the pistons are fully expanded and you get the best seal.

Yeah, I messed up. Not sure what you mean by throttle open? I had the fuel pump fuse out and just turned the key. Didn't pump the accelerator . NO the engine was 50's ish. from last nite. I think I just go with the toasty brown plugs.

Engine needs to be able to ingest air in order to compress it. Compression test is always done with a WOT (wide open throttle).

Throttle needs to be open.

In other world, press on the gas pedal fully while cranking

OH crap. SO, then the accelerator is pressed down an open. Darn. OK, that being said the number used air being sucked in through the intake valves then? IN which case they're about right? I figure the pressure necessary to suck air through the intake with the tb closed is fairly high, with open TB it's another 40-60 psi I am missing. Just shooting at the dark now.
Probably do it again tomorrow.

You got it.
Test 1.
Air in, compressed, PSI reading DRY
You are looking for a result of more than 20% difference between cyls.
example: 140, 138, 139, 120, 145, 100 PINGO!
Test 2
add a spoon full of oil through the plug hole and crank a few times Then retest = More than 20 % increase? Y/N (compression Ring test)

There will be no change if the valve is burnt as the cyl never compresses all the air which escapes through the valve/seat area.

Next step is a "Leak Down Test" you will need a compressor and a gauge set. Google that test and you will see what is required. This is really the only best practice for engine mechanical health

At the very least you should do the dry test again to see if your cylinders are all in range and similar.

In your first post you state--no excessive oil burning. How much oil are your burning?

I use about a pint every 1000 or more miles and that's at 2800-3000 rpm in final drive.
I avg. 20 mpg mixed. It has a puurrfect idle. Accelerates smoothly and quickly in the top gear when you step down to highway pass above 70. Other than the loss of small amounts of coolant recently this engine and transmission have both been flawless.

If you've got no issues, just drive. If you want to do some diagnosis, get INPA, it'll let you see smoothness at idle, sensor values and much more.

Ok, what's INPA ? Where do I get it? I like to be as preventive as possible. I'll admit sometimes I over react, but it is rounding up 234567K miles. And 90 % is original. So what's common? When you read some of these posts it's a bit bizarre. INPA, I'll google. Thanks

INPA is bmw software that will allow you to monitor a bunch of sensors and values from the engine to the lighting.

You need to buy the cable, probably jump pin 7&8 and install BMWEasyTools.zip (google it).

There's a recent thread in this very forum "INPA wanted ... "

Its good to take care of your car but when something will be wrong, you'll feel/know it and INPA will help pinpointing the issue with the data and BMW specific error codes.

This is great to know. But it is just Windows PC compatible? Not a problem. Are the posting s on eBay for the cable and software reputable?

Yes it is windows based but it runs perfectly in a windows XP virtual machine on my macbook pro using virtual box.

The cables are all the same, get the software from google.

Thank you so much. I'll go begin the search and purchase. I am sure it will help with my intermittent ABS Trifecta light issue and maybe if I am lucky, it will turn off the canceled rear air suspension light. Great news.

With inpa and BMw Easy Tools comes all the software you need to recode your car but maybe start slow and easy and also get the BMW Scanner cable which will allow you to use PA Soft 1.4 (that I can email you if needed) which will allow you to do some light coding and clear errors easily.
Don't abandon the INPA cable for the PA Soft, INPA and NCS Expert allow you way more information than PA Soft but PA Soft is friendlier for simple coding like DRLs and auto lock when driving.

woah, slow down, I am old dude, new to all this techno BMW stuff. I started on E30's. But it's all good. If I understand correctly, I buy a INPA cable which on eBay comes with a software disc. I download Virtual box and then the INPA stuff. I connect to my MacBook pro and voila I can read codes etc. BUT, if I want to do some simple code changes to my X5 I should get a PA Soft1.4 scanner cable? The only thing I want to code off is the suspension light since I now use a coil springs suspension and dumped the air. Right now, I use the old school black out method. Electric tape. LOL.

You will need to download windows and install it in virtual box. There are many ways to get windows, either an old disc or downloads.

Once you have it installed in Virtual Box, you install BMW Easy Tools (no need to use the disc that came with the cable, most are full of viruses)

Once its installed, you're ready to go.

PA Soft will not code suspension. you can ignore it.

Youtube and google will show you how to set up everything.

Scourtad, thanks for all the important information. I have access to Windows stuff, bro is IT expert. Thanks for the warning on virus discs. Good to know. So, you must love living in Geneva. Nice. I'll start buying the stuff and I imagine I can connect and download car information real time while driving around? I read somewhere you get a different list of things during driving under load than at idle. Do you find that to be true?

I am a MacBook also -
I portioned the hard drive with bootcamp and have my BMW software on Windows 7 through a "virtual machine". Going to give Virtual Box a try this weekend - THANKS for posting that.

Also I have smartphone app - OBD Fusion and an EBay OBD2 wifi/Bluetooth (little black box that plugs in under the dash). Lets you read and clear codes, and real time diagnostic and performance info while your driving -(yeah, pull over when your working on it). Setup about $25. Not including the iPhone Or Android

Thus far,I don't think your symptoms are indicating a major problem. Engine is running fine, MPG are good, oil consumption is a little high but not outrageous. The only symptom you have mentioned is that you are losing a small amount of coolant and thus far have not found the source of the leak. What is a small amount and over how many miles?

FYI, it is easy to overfill the expansion tank. The float is as high as it will go well before the tank is full. If it is overfilled when the engine is at operating temp that excess will be pushed out.

If there is any smoke coming out of the exhaust note the color. White=coolant, blue=oil. Coolant has a distinct sweet smell. If the coolant leak is internal it has to go somewhere. You have no indication it is getting into the oil. Often you can smell a coolant leak when you first shut off the engine if you are in closed area where it builds up some in a few minutes.

IMO you should still be looking for an external leak by checking the engine for coolant traces when the engine is stone cold and when it has been at operating temperature, searching both when the engine is running and not running. Suggest you start at the top of the engine using a very strong small flashlight because that's easiest to do. Obviously, you will have to remove the engine cover. If you don't find anything it is time to look under the engine. Best to clean as much of engine with a degreaser before looking. It will be necessary to remove the plastic cover under the engine and may be necessary to remove the metal skid plate to be sure you have completely eliminated the leak is not external but I wouldn't do that initially. I don't recall every having to use a pressure tester. You may not find any liquid but a leak will leave a whitish trail to the source. If you see a trail, clean it off and check a few days later to see if it returns.

INPA suite is good to have if you use it fairly frequently. I have it but very very seldom use it. I don't find it intuitive at all. I have to start the learning process over every time. In addition, to pinpoint a problem one has to be able to interprt the data. There are lots of good code readers and apps such a Torque that will show you real time information that I find very easy to use but at this point I would use old school troubleshooting.

If you go INPA route many of us have used the vendor from Rumeria without any virus issues. It takes a lot of space. I have it loaded on an external hard drive.