Originally Posted by e39_touring (Post 1126154)

Another thing that apparently was important to watch, though I didn't know it at the time, is the compressor temp viewable in inpa. My failing compressor would increase in temp as it was pumping while the temps on my new replacement compressor would barely budge after several test cycles.

Originally Posted by brucemillar (Post 1126670)

I have now refurbished my compressor. This included:

A new cylinder/bore
New drier Springs
De-rusted and cleaned out the blocked drier internals.
New piston ring
New seals & O-Rings


All parts were available from the wonderful www.bagpipingandy.com

Errors cleared and she runs like a dream. The car raises and lowers really quickly with the compressor shuts off correctly.

No errors.

Thank you all for your help.

Originally Posted by brucemillar (Post 1126670)

I have now refurbished my compressor. This included:

A new cylinder/bore
New drier Springs
De-rusted and cleaned out the blocked drier internals.
New piston ring
New seals & O-Rings


All parts were available from the wonderful www.bagpipingandy.com

Errors cleared and she runs like a dream. The car raises and lowers really quickly with the compressor shuts off correctly.

No errors.

Thank you all for your help.

Originally Posted by brucemillar (Post 1126682)

The kit cost £90 posted in the UK. It comes with really well laid out colour, photographic, step by step instructions. You cannot go wrong if you follow the instructions.

I removed the unit from the car (two minutes and two connectors). Then did the job on my living room table, using a small 1/4 drive set and a 10mm spanner.

When you open the drier canister (if you opt t replace the cylinder bore). It is full of silicone beads - and I do mean full. These can go everywhere (ask me how I know) but can be swept and re-used.

My drier was clogged with rust at the valve end, where there is a lid that is like a pepper pot lid. The holes were blocked by rust stopping air flow. A wire brush and job done.

What I now understand is that the ECU must have a timer. So when it issues a command it looks for + response withing that time. When it does not get that response withing that time, it throws an error. In my case 116. So the ECU was calling for air and the compressor was delivering air, but not quickly enough for the ECU. The error does not say that!! It says that there was "a constant pressure" I now think that this means that it was expecting a pressure change within a time? But did not get that within that time. Hence the error would keep returning.

I am not mechanic, rather a home enthusiast and this can seem like a scary job. It is not. With the compressor on the table, you see all the constituent parts and understand their operation.

It only takes a tiny pressure drop for the system to fail. If it fails with the "Air Suspension Inactive" It will most likely shut down the power to the compressor until you clear that error. Replacing fuses will do nothing at this point. You need to clear that error using a scanner to get the compressor powered up and running.

Now when I put mine back together again. It re-calibrated itself on all three height settings, without e touching anything. I just cleared the error, switched on the engine, SHUT THE DOORS, and watched the car level itself out, quicker than it ever as in my ownership.

YES. REMEMBER TO SHUT THE DOORS as they have an interlock to the system and will stop it leveling until they are all closed.