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Window Regulator Longevity - Pro Tip
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3rd time replacing my driver front window regulator. Total pain in the ass wrangling them in and out. Got a tip on the Facebook forum to spray silicone lube in the window channels. Along with copious amounts of lithium grease on the regulator tracks must say the window now glides much more effortlessly. Also applied to the other 3 windows as preventative measure.
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What brand of regulator are you using? What is the point of failure?
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Seems that the cable always gets snagged / spaghettied somehow. I've used OE and cheap Chinese don't seem to matter.
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Jbweld will make it last... possibly forever.
It may fail somewhere else but it wont fail where you jbweld it. |
Just ordered a URO "Premium" regulator. It has ball bearings in the cable guides instead of a bushing. Plan is to lubricate this with Triflow. I think lithium grease is a good idea, but it's too thick for use in northern climates (it's about 10F outside now) where it will harden over time.
I normally steer clear of URO stuff, but the video on Rockauto was pretty convincing. |
3rd regulator on the same door? How long have you owned your X?
Also, curious, do you open/close your doors with the windows down? I've read that does/might cause extra stress on the regulators? Never experienced a re-failure myself, but thought I would ask. |
@scott zhp Lubriplate at one time made some low temp white grease that was great down to -40 C/F. I used it in the chain case of my sled back in the day. It actually didn't seem to seperate as much as the regular stuff either. I think what happens to the bowden cables(same as what happens with the door handles) is that the cable lining gets a grove worn into it and then the slightest bit of moisture freezes the cable into the grove.
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Somewhere there's a "rubber glove fingertip" mod for the cable end to keep moisture out. You snip the finger off a heavy duty nitrile glove, fill it with your grease of choice and seal the end of the cable. Made me laugh, but I bet it works. |
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More Information for ÜRO PARTS 51338254911PRM |
They should give you a commission... I think I'm going to try those on the next window failure as I have not done the rear regulators as of yet.
Are regulators on the e70 a problem area as well? |
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My (wife's) E70 is a 2012, bought it CPO in 2015 with 24k miles coming off lease. I haven't touched any of the regulators yet and haven't heard any complaints. I did have the OFHG replaced under CPO warranty, so that issue is still around. |
Seems like I tried those before and they failed but I would be willing to try one again for the heck of it. I'll stock a few and when needed use one of them next time.
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Is the bearing even a factor ?
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Wasn't for me that I could tell but Im all for research.
Mine fail from the glass sticking and when it free's up it jumps the cable off the pulleys. |
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Agree. I'll even pull up a little and just open the door lol. |
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You guys are hilarious. I worry very little about them and use them just as I would in any other vehicle. They are a service item if original. And if serviced, with the extra precaution mods, shouldn't need tending to again. Regulators are quick and easy, no cause for fret. Now Xover pipes, transmissions, etc. Those I sometimes worry about lol.
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My right rear regulator failed last spring -- first one in 12-yr old vehicle. My theory is just the opposite: if they're used regularly, better chance the cable/pulleys don't get "stoved-up." The left rear one on my M3 was the first (and only, knock on wood) to break -- so same reasoning: those are the least-used regulators. In both cases, it was the cable wheels/guides made of PLASTIC that got brittle and broke, so it's a losing battle when they're built to fail.
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In the last week I've been traveling where it's over 100 degrees everyday, and one day was a 115- as soon as I jump in , all four windows go straight down to let some heat escape, I never give a thought to regulators breaking! :whew:: |
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