WDS application
 

Hey everyone can someone give some insight on the settings needed to run the wds program on here. I get it to load up on the left side and chose what I want to see but the diagram fails to load on right side :dunno: suggestions pleeeeeeease ;)

answered my own question. Thanks for everyones help! LOL :nanana:

on a side note. i have a 03 4.6. no start no crank no communication. new starter new battery and new ignition switch. six weeks ago dealer replaced fuse f105 and everything was up and running. now this fuse has blown again and when i turn key to accessory everything powers up normally but once i try to start the f105 fuse blows. any suggestions?????

Not sure on your F105 problem but the new newtis.info is easier to access and use than WDS - but I actually prefer WDS.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e53-x5-4.6is-sav/

Looking at F105 now.. :-)

ok sweet thanks. also i should add the current key i use is about 4 months old

Looks like F105 is one of the main feeds into the IVM, where power is distributed to many other circuits. It may take a bit of sleuthing to track down what is blowing the fuse.

yeah i saw that as well but what makes it even more confusing is when i look up part (IVM) it shows its not in the 03 4.6 lol so idk

Have you checked all the down-stream fuses too? Most items that are powered via F105 then have their own sub-fuse, so if a module is faulty, like an injector etc. then it would normally blow it's own (lower rated) fuse and not F105.

For 105 to blow there is either a large fault current to a path not protected by a sub-fuse (and there's very few of those), an aggregate current generated by multiple modules (like multiple failing modules!) or a chaffed wire with a short to ground.

I would have gone straight to my standby answer for a fault like this and said ignition switch but that's a new part. Maybe check around the wiring loom near the switch for a chaffed wire? :dunno:

that was my first suspicion on ignition switch so replaced even though tests came out good but original part and i have 291000 on dash now lol i checked all fuses in glove box as well as ones behind fuse panel. all were good minus a heated steering wheel which i dont have that option so no power going to that and the fuse for abs dcs showed no power going to but believe that turns on once vehicle is running. visually that fuse look good. checked fuses in back by right tail light...all were good. still gotta check fuses under hood. what would you think about the 200 amp fuse in back by air suspension. i think if that fuse was blown i dont think id have power at all correct?

F200, in the main fuse bank above the battery? Yeah, if that was popped, you'd have zero power to a lot of the car.

It's upstream of F105, feeding F105, so your fault current is running through F105 but (good news), your fault current is less than 200 amps (but more than 60 amps). ;)

Actually, most fuses have a fuse rating of something like 2x the stated current, i.e. it takes 120 amps to blow a 60 amp fuse. A 60A fuse can safely carry 60A continuously but it take quite a bit more to blow it. :yikes:

So you have a BIG current sink somewhere. And I'm guessing that 60A fuses are too expensive to just keep disconnecting stuff until it stops blowing.. so we'll need to get a bit smarter on fault finding here... Putting my thinking cap on...

Thanks for all your input I really appreciate it. Electrical is not my forte. Whats your thoughts on the main dme relay being bad? Ill have to wait to tomorrow during daylight to diagnose. I wish it was as easy as it just being the ivm being bad.

I can't see this being the DME relay (K6300) - although I suppose a catastrophic internal fault might cause problems. It's pretty unlikely though, as the most likely fault (an internal short) would likely be present at all times, not just when you try to start the car. The fact that the fuse blows when the relay activates indicates that the relay is in fact most likely working correctly.

The DME relay is however possibly connecting the faulty module to F105 when the relay activates, causing F105 to blow. Because of this, removing the DME relay from it's socket may well remove the overload problem but not because the DME is fault (although that is possible) but because removing the DME isolates the fault from F105.

Think of it like water - there is a big leak. Removing the DME connection (a tap in this analogy) stops the leak but only because it stops water flowing down some paths TO the leak. ;)

All fuses under the hood came out good. What would you think of a bad ground off the starter? Would that cause that fuse to blow?

Not likely - the current for the starter isn't via F105 (or any fuse) so there's no path...

So KOEO (key on, engine off - aka KL-30) doesn't blow F105 but attempting to start it (KL-50) does? Sounds like maybe the starter solenoid is bad. Let me trace that circuit out... :confused:

P.S. This is from QSilver7...

"KL" in bimmerspeak refers to the ignition "terminal" positions. For many, the terms "run" & "accessory" still raises questions...because it doesn't plainly explain which ignition positions they are for those that don't refer to their owners manual for better clarification.

Below is some simple explanation:

• KL 0 = OFF (ignition off position)
• KL R = ignition position 1 ("run" - some electonics & modules are powered up)
• KL 15 = ignition position 2 ("accessory" - all electronics & modules re powered)
• KL 30 = ignition position 3 (where the ignition defauts after starting the engine)
• KL 50 = ignition start position

Correct KL 50 is when the fuse blows.

OK, you may be onto something here - needs more checking but there is a circuit to the starter solenoid via F105.

Have a look at this..

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...iliser/kP851Nc

F105 is at the top right and there's a path via the immobiliser (A146) and the start relay (K6324) to the starter assembly (M6510).

I would imagine a faulty starter solenoid would cause your fault.

AND you can easily test this by pulling the start relay (K6324) which will then isolate the starter solenoid and should not affect anything else. Car won't turn over but fuse should not blow either. If it DOES blow, then the fault has to be somewhere else - possibly in the immobiliser (A146)?

The start relay (K6324) is here...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...is-sav/UyBTGcO

Update. Finally was able to tinker more on this mess. So when you pull the starter relay out the fuse no longer blows. So gotta be a starter issue. Possibly a frayed wire going to the starter?

Phew - at least you have isolated the area where the fault exists. :thumbup:

Yeah, you'll have to check the wiring from the start relay all the way down to the starter motor assembly. I call it an assembly as it's both a starter motor and the contactor (solenoid). One quick test would be to unplug the start relay and the start relay connection to the starter motor assembly at X6510 (on the back of the starter motor assembly) and then do a continuity check to ground on that wire, using a multi-meter. If you measure a short to ground on the wire, then the fault is in the wiring. If not, the fault has to be in the starter motor assembly.

HTH... :D

Actually, looking at the images on this page...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...unting/AXDznpv

These images shows that "X6510" isn't actually a plug, it's a bolt-on connection.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/obj/800ZBd4 https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/obj/7wxynpU

Not hard to undo though.

I wonder if something has fallen down into the area and gotten wedged against one of the connections...!? :rolleyes:

Made a appointment with the place that did my starter six weeks ago. Since its concerning that id prefer for them to cover their mistake or warranty the bad starter if thats the case. Would have changed it myself but once winter hits I no longer enjoy laying outside wrenching on cars. If i had a garage it would be a different story lol. Cross my fingers they do the right thing. I will jack it up before hand amd look for a loose connection or something wedged in there like you said before it is towed there. Should be interesting on them towing cause its in a parking garage and the height is only 7 10 so they might have to drag to top floor on dollys and then put on flat bed idk lol

UPDATE...so just picked the X5 up from shop today. Their diagnosis says that the starter and cables going to starter are good. They couldnt do the proper tests to see what was drawing the fuse to blow and recommended me to bring to dealer and if the dealers tests confirm a faulty stater then they would warranty it out. They did however get the X5 to start by jumping the fuse so in my mind that cancels out the ews module. What Im thinking before I hand it over to dealer is to check the ground cable to engine to chassis. I asked shop if they performed that and they said no. Whats your thoughts on ground strap and which side of motor is that located?

Not sure where the ground cables run - will look them up.

But I can't see the ground cables being the issue. A disconnected or faulty ground cable will REDUCE the current through the start assembly, not increase it.

If jumpering F105 allows the car to start then you can only conclude that the starter assembly is drawing more than 60A and therefore blowing F105. And it's shouldn't be drawing enough current to blow F105.

It HAS to be a faulty starter solenoid, despite what the shop said. Nothing else can cause your issue.

Sounds like they are trying to dodge a claim. What brand and model of starter assembly did they fit?

:iagree:

bosch ....thats what I told them I thought the starter solenoid was no good. Definitely wont use this shop again. They did however say if dealer comes to conclusion that the starter is the cause then they will warranty the part.

We aren't there to check this ourselves vs. the shop which has had the car, so we *could* be wrong but logic dictates that this fault is either a faulty starter solenoid or the wrong model starter solenoid.

Maybe they fitted a part meant for a Mack truck or something...?! :dunno:

I have tomorrow off so Ill have time to tinker around it. Any tests you can think of i should try before shipping it to the stealer? Lol

If you have and can use a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) you could try measuring the resistance of the starter solenoid coil i.e. the resistance to ground from X6510.

It will need to be a meter that can read very low resistances, as the resistance of the solenoid coil will be a fraction of an ohm - at 12.6v it takes a load of 0.21ohms to draw 60amps. If your solenoid coil is greater than 0.21 ohms, it's ok - lower than 0.21ohms, it's either faulty or the wrong part.

This is a very general test, as the actual current drawn in an inductive circuit will depend on more than just the DC resistance, but it's a start.

(An inductive circuit is usually one that includes some form of coiled wire - like in your starter solenoid coil.)

And here's a good description of how these suckers work...

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/strtctr.pdf

If you aren't well-schooled on electrickery, this might be over the top but hey, it may help.

The key takeaway is that typical engagement currents on starter solenoids is about 35amps - well short of the current required to blow F105. Something is sucking a LOT more current down that line...

Yeah I have a DMM so Ill try that test out. Thanks for all your input I really appreciate it! I have basic knowledge on electric so for the most part I understand the pdf you sent.