Secondary air system question on a 3.0i
 

This is the the graphic/schematic on RealOEM.com for my car - 04, E53, 3.0i

I have the larger hose (hose not pictured but you see the large port) into #1 but NOT the smaller hoses or even the port for #3/4
And I don't have #5

My #7 goes into the firewall

I am working on solving a code that others have said there #3 hose was rotted/leaking and I don't even have it!
any others missing this line?
THANKS

- Maybe your small vacuum hose is cracked and broken off, this is why you don't see it.

- I fixed my SAS system in my 1998 528i and wrote it below. You can find some useful info in that DIY:

DIY: Troubleshooting S.A.S. and How to Replace the Famous Fuse # 107! - Page 3 - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

The later 3.0's don't have that smaller hose - it's a different system. The valve is opened by pressure from the air pump and not a vacuum solenoid like in the earlier system.

You can test the valve by taking it off the car and blowing through the big hose port. If you can't the valve could be stuck, and you might be able to unstick it by cleaning with carb cleaner or the like.

The air pump should come on for the first 30 seconds or so after a cold start. If you disconnect that big hose and start the car from a cold start, you should feel a big rush of air come through that hose.

The only other component is the mass air sensor on the filter housing at the other end of the big hose/air pump. If the filter's clean and everything else checks out, that's likely your problem. INPA can tell you for sure - just activate the air pump test and you should observe airflow on the sensor reading. That was the problem we had on our '05 - the sensor wasn't reading any flow. Replaced it and all good on that code since then.

THANKS!
I will be blowing it tomorrow......

My error code is P1093, bank 2 - too rich

Oh, I don't think your problem will be with the air injection system then. The code I was getting had to do with a faulty secondary mass air sensor.

That air pump system described above just pumps fresh air into the exhaust for x number of seconds on startup to help light off the cats. After it shuts off, it doesn't come into play anymore until the next cold start.

Bank 2 too rich could be a lot of other things from bad o2 sensor, leaky injectors, bad plugs or coils, etc.

Thanks touring!
Working on solving this code for a year, I am getting desperate -

all new O2 sensors (rears twice)
swapped injectors/coils/plugs between banks - error didn't change bank
new fuel filter (pressure regulator)
New MAF
no intake leaks, new rubber boot into throttle body
new DISA O ring
new Idle control valve
new valve cover gasket
New gas cap
New gaskets/bolts between exhaust manifold and first section of tailpipe

Hey Kevin, did you ever fix the pressure leak down of the fuel system after you shut the engine off? If not I would cycle the key on and off several times but don't start the engine, and pull the three spark plugs in bank 2 to see if any are wet.

I see where your thought is but he said he swapped injectors and that should have moved the fault to the other bank.

You do need to make sure the pressure holds power off. I would check the plugs for weeping injectors nonetheless. Maybe multiple injectors leaking and swapping them didn't isolate to one bank. I would do as suggested to keep fuel rail pressurised for an hour or two (turn key to on to charge fuel rail) then off, do that every 30 minutes for an hour (3 times) wait another 30 minutes and at 90 minutes pull all the plugs and look for wet plugs indicating injectors not closing completely.

If so, injector cleaner may clear the problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

THANKS.
trying to work on one issue at a time but they all can be related.
My rail does NOT hold pressure, within 5 min its almost down to zero with eng. not running. Engine running pressure holds where it should. I changed fuel filter twice and new fuel pump to correct this. I also had the fuel rail/injectors sitting on a towel turning pump on, on/off, let sit and never saw a drop of gas. My car starts perfect on a cold start, prefect on a hot start, but stumbles to start on a warm (sitting an hour after a long run) start. I have changed the duel temp sensor and the temp sensor at the radiator with no change.
My motto - some guys play golf, I play mechanic!

THANKS for all the input.

How long injectors sitting on the towel? You said pressure drops after 5 minutes means you would have to cycle fuel pump on at least every five minutes to keep pressure up.

Fuel rail leaks pressure after replacing FPR and fuel pump? That leads to indicate a faulty new part if injectors aren't leaking (unless you have a leak to the world: no gas smell?)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I had my gage on the Schrader valve, turn key to start pump, let it sit (maybe 1/2 hour), watched valve pressure drop - no injector leaks. BUT also at the time of my test I was ignorant to know that the pump does not keep running if it knows eng. is not running (I kept the key turned thinking it was constant pump).
Also checked the rubber vac line on both the filter and eng side.
Also entertained the thought that I switched the lines on the filter (return and in), checked and re-check that (what a PAIN to drop that cover). One is blue, one is black, pulled up the back seat and cover to see return line.

ruled out faulty parts as I did this in order -
1.new fuel filter
2. new fuel pump (felt with milage/age doing this as maintenance was wise)
3. another new fuel filter (thinking I got a bad one)
all quality OEM

I don't believe I have any rail leaks, no smell or evidence.

So I sorta gave up on this issue maybe about a year before until this new Bank 2 rich code showed up. Not sure if its related

TAHNKS!

Didn't you state in another post that the pressure was almost down to nothing after 5 minutes after you turned off the engine?

How often are you getting that bank 2 rich code? Is it setting the check engine light?

I have this same code on our '05, but it's also throwing a code for a failed functional check TEV valve, which I think may be related in my case. The TEV is akin to a canister purge valve where it vents fumes from the gas tank back into the engine. When that valve is open, the ECM expects the mixture to go lean momentarily, and if the valve is stuck, there will be a temporary rich condition instead. I haven't had time to fully diagnose this one, but my point in bringing it up is that there are a lot of other things, seemingly unrelated, that can trigger your code.

Also, are you using a generic OBD reader or BMW tool like INPA? INPA will give you a lot of information with the code like the engine hours when it set as well as related non-emissions codes that don't have a corresponding OBDII code.

I would definitely check any fuel venting (cap should have vacuum when removing).

Pump runs about 3 seconds when key turned to position one. It relies on the check valve in the pump to hold pressure.

The FPR also must have a check valve and if that is bad I suspect leak goes back to tank: you can use a hose pinch tool to prevent return to the tank to eliminate fpr leak from the equation.

You can also do that for the pump check valve.

Eg: pump on then immediately add the hose pinch to both Supply and return lines.

If pressure holds it's FPR or pump if doesn't it's engine side

If pressure holds release one of the pinch tools to determine if FPR or pump.

Thats interesting.......my original "service eng soon" light was due to purge valve. (valve in front of eng). I replaced it with cheep Ebay valve. Got the code again, replace with OEM. soon after - this P1093 code showed up. I tested the valve with voltage and can hear it click open/close.

I have used the more sophisticated code tools on my laptop (also P1093), but since using OBD fusion

Yes, that's the TEV! I find it interesting that we've both had codes related to TEV and bank 2 rich. Like I said earlier, though, I haven't had time to do anything other than pull the codes at this point.

Hi Kevin, did you ever figure out your problem? I finally got a little time to mess with the X's and have made a little progress. I replaced my tank purge valve, and so far that's taken car of the 250 - functional check TEV error (INPA).

However, I still get 2 errors and a CEL consistently about 5 miles after a reset - 227 & 228, lambda control tolerance bank 1 & 2 deviation rich (again, INPA error which I understand actually means I'm running lean).

Lambda integrator 1 & 2 (is this the short-term fuel trim?) are both running at ~16.2%, which is outside the + or - 10% allowed.

I'm 99% sure I've got a vacuum leak because it's consistent and affecting all cylinders though I don't see any obvious signs of where it could be yet.

I never solved my loss of fuel pressure at the valve at the fuel rail, but its running just fine, (except for some hard starts when the eng is warm).
I solved my "bank 2" code - my post cat O2 sensor wires were reversed.

I did learn about intake vacuum leaks.......
did you change this intake boot (attached photo), they rip on the folds and sometimes you hear a whistle when there leaking. Also the DISA valve has a replacement "o-ring" you can buy on Ebay (BMW doesn't sell just the sealing ring). I am sure you have cleaned your MAF sensor wires (special spay cleaner). I ended up replacing my MAF trying to solve my "rich" code - and it kept the code away for about a month - it does affect the trim. Did you do your Crank case vent system. Some on line say its there gas cap? Mine looked ok and I always thought I was getting a good seal - but I did wiggle in another O-ring on that seal and made it real tight.

On a side note.....I went to get my yearly inspection sticker. So as I drove into the station I cleared the "check eng light". The guy backed my car out with a "failed" sticker!! He asked if I cleared the light? "yes, I did". He said it won't pass unless there is at least 60 miles of history on a cleared system.

Glad to hear you're sorted - yes, when you clear codes, all emissions monitors are set to 'not ready' and take drive time to return to 'ready'. I learned this a few years ago, too, by resetting right before a test.

Thanks for the tips on the boot and DISA. I'll check those out more carefully. I did do a oil filter housing gasket a while back and now the tank purge valve, and even though the rubber looks good, something must not be seated right. Maybe I'll get a smoke machine to make quick work of finding the leak.

I'm pretty sure my MAF is fine because the live values are smooth and consistent. I can swap it from my other X as I have with the gas cap. It's nice to have a 'Chinese blueprint' when diagnosing as it saves on parts-swapping exercises.

make a cheap "harbor fright" smoke test, thats what I did.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsgB9eBl58I

Spot on, I hooked up a smoke machine, and got smoke pouring out of that intake elbow even though it looked fine visually. That smoke machine sure is a handy tool!