Engine won't crank FIXED
 

2004 diesel. 2 days ago I left for work and car started normally in the morning, but on leaving work I turned the key and all ignition lights on, but engine won't crank, no clicks, no dimming dash lights, just won't crank. Pushed car out of parking spot and started with jumper leads to workmates car.

I figured battery is stuffed, so yesterday got a lift to work and bought new battery after work. I get home, pull out the old battery and notice that the little battery condition window/indicator is green meaning battery is okay. Check with multimeter and old battery is 12.4v after sitting for over 24 hours. Check new battery is 12.3v. I cleaned battery terminals and put old battery back in. Car starts, no problem.

Today, car starts in morning, drive to work, reverse into parking spot, passenger side mirror tips down, but when I put car in park, mirror doesn't come back up. I turn ignition off and back on, mirror still down. I try to start car, ignition lights on, but no crank again. I have new battery in back of car, connect new battery to jumper points under bonnet (hood for the Americans), still won't crank.

I tried locking unlocking with remote, then locking with remote and unlocking with key in door, still won't crank over.

Any ideas??? Car is still at work.

Might be your ignition switch. It sounds like switch issues I've experienced with another vehicle and also read about on this forum. Starting can get sporadic. On my Monte it had issues when it was warm but eventually failed completely. Get your tester out and see if you are getting power to your starter or ignition relay.

+1 ingition switch.


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Something you can test to see if it is the neutral safety switch is put your foot on the break and shift the car into neutral and try to start the car in the neutral position. That might get your car back home and narrow down the problem.

I did a lot of searching on the net and one of the thoughts was a dodgy key not communicating with the immobiliser. Took spare key to work this morning (left vehicle there overnight) and it started no problem with spare key.

Here's hoping problem solved. Weird thing is though that the key which failed is the only original I have. My 2 spares are Chinese knock offs which I bought on eBay and had cut and programmed. I have been using the original key for over 2 years, no problems. I don't think it's the key battery as the remote works fine from a fair distance away.

Cracked board or broken solder point on the key perhaps? Does the key unlock your doors but won't start the vehicle?

Had it happen to me a few months back now, was ignition switch. Seems to be a common problem, reasonably cheap and easy to replace.

Spare key didn't work tonight after work. Hot day, was 37deg C (98deg F) when I went to leave work, so may be heat related. Have 4 days off from Tues so guess I'll be pulling things apart.

I remember Salty_Dog had a similar intermittent starting problem recently as well, and his was the ignition switch assembly also.

Cheap part and and easy to replace.
It is not the actual part that the key goes into, but the electronic bit behind it, so you don't need new keys etc.

I am now leaning towards starter motor brushes. I got a lift to work today and before leaving tried to start it. Same deal, ignition lights, no crank. I then got the wheel nut spanner out of the back and used it like a hammer and gave the starter a couple of hits on the side. I then, tried starting the x5 and she bursts into life. Got it home and will pull the starter out tomorrow as I now have 4 days off.

Will keep you posted.

That's entirely possible.

Dead spots on commutator is a very popular failure mode on a starter. On starters where you can get a screwdriver into the armature and turn it a smidge is the easiest to help along.


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Finally got the starter out and took it apart. 2 of the 4 brushes are worn right to the end which would have been causing the problem. The carbon buildup inside makes me surprised that it worked in the first place. I was hoping I could replace the brushes but the wire leads are spot welded to the field windings. Even if I could get hold of a spot welder I wouldn't be able to get in there to fix.

I hate throwing away parts that could be fixed, but it looks like I am going to have to source a new starter motor.

On this side of the pond, there are shops that rebuild starters and alternators. Check around to see if they have any down under.

The lead that is spot welded should be copper. Cut leaving a nub and solder in the replacement.


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Ordered new starter, should be arriving today. I will keep the old one and see if I can repair at a later date.

That's smart thinking if you take apart post photos


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New starter motor is in. It has never cranked so fast since I've had it. Problem solved.

Good to hear.

The starter was probably using excessive current it seems to be the way they go at end of life sometimes double the normal current.


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Is your new starter the same brand? Or something different? Expensive?

I made some local enquiries and prices varied from $600 to $1600 for a replacement. I then had a look online and got a new starter on ebay from Melbourne for $200
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brand-Ne...72.m2749.l2649
Not sure of the brand, but it works fine and I will look to repair the old starter for a back up.

Uh-oh..The brand is listed as 'Trump. I wouldn't rely on that starter too much. You may think it's there to start your engine patriotically, but it's really there to sow discord between the glow plugs and the injectors, all the while stealing everything it can and smuggling it away to secret Russian bank accounts;)