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-   -   Tension Strut (Thrust Arm) bushing Question #SOLVED!!!# (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/107798-tension-strut-thrust-arm-bushing-question-solved.html)

StephenVA 02-13-2018 06:14 PM

Parts maybe failing all over....
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by bcredliner (Post 1128752)
Hard to get a sense of the severity of the shaking without being there. I suppose thrust arm bushings could cause your symptoms but would not say that is a sure thing. I think my first step would be to inspect the entire front suspension. Life of most suspension components are not all that dissimilar. Since you only have the symptoms from 40-60 I would also verify the tires are balanced. Symptoms like this could even be driveline related.

AS mentioned above, multiple issues can give you a vibration. A quick review of the suspension by someone who is familiar with an E53 X5 will be able to point to failed part. The challenge is always the tire/wheel run-out vs the brakes vs the suspension.

If your vehicle has not had a suspension refresh at 100K then you are due. The normal vibration you feel in the wheel is a classic result of worn thrust/control arm bushing failure. (as are a host of other less likely issues/part failures).

The reason most posters are hesitant is that at 100K , everything is worn out and will show their looseness as soon as you replace just one of the interconnected suspension parts. It is easier to replace them all in one pass then it is to replace one at a time while chasing your tail on which one is causing which part of the vibration you feel in the wheel vs the ones you feel in your butt while driving but you ignore as maybe "normal".

Mileage on your X5 3.0?

Helpful?

dadysev 02-13-2018 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcredliner (Post 1128752)
Hard to get a sense of the severity of the shaking without being there. I suppose thrust arm bushings could cause your symptoms but would not say that is a sure thing. I think my first step would be to inspect the entire front suspension. Life of most suspension components are not all that dissimilar. Since you only have the symptoms from 40-60 I would also verify the tires are balanced. Symptoms like this could even be driveline related.

Just came from one of my BMW mechanics friends house. Had him take a listen as i shifted from Drive to Reverse. Looks like I need the front right drive shaft. I changed the left one as it was ripped and "clickety clacking!" and thats and easy one to determine.
Looks like i have to jack it up this weekend and start checking my front end!! No jokes please..... lol.
Thanks all.

StephenVA 02-14-2018 03:24 PM

Hands on viewing of a problem by knowledgeable individuals is 1,000 times better than internet guesses.

Congrats on grabbing a SME!

dadysev 02-14-2018 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StephenVA (Post 1128807)
Hands on viewing of a problem by knowledgeable individuals is 1,000 times better than internet guesses.

Congrats on grabbing a SME!

Yup!!
just jacked it up quick on the right side. I grabbed the axle and the inner joint (diff side) lots of play when i twist them. Definitely the problem!! CV joints should be tight.
I've changed plenty drive axles on Japanese cars but its usually the outer joint that tears, dries out and clickety clack! Never seen the inner one get loose and the boot is still in tack.
But, i've also never changed 4x4 front axles either and i don't know the history of this vehicle. Who knows if the boot ripped and it dried out before and the owner just repacked it and added a new boot. Who knows.
Thanks for the help.

dadysev 02-15-2018 02:48 PM

Changed the right side shaft, and solved my vibration issues while driving and fixed my idle vibration when in Drive or Reverse!!
There was quite a bit of play in the CV joint. The grease was leaking out slowly though the axle side.

upallnight 02-15-2018 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by white_335i (Post 1128746)
Another timely thread for me as I am accumulating parts for the suspension refresh on my newly acquired(to me) X5. Is there a tool out there to replace the thrust arm bushings(other than press) or should I be thinking about purchasing the arm with the bushing installed? Thanks,

A sawzall or hacksaw can be used to remove the bushing if you are careful and you can use a polyurethane bushing such as PSB which can be installed without a press if you split the bushing in half. I used the PSB because I wanted to keep my original BMW thrust arm and not a made in China suspension piece.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-X5-E-53...QAAOSw2s1UwZiM

BigBody 02-15-2018 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by upallnight (Post 1128869)
A sawzall or hacksaw can be used to remove the bushing if you are careful and you can use a polyurethane bushing such as PSB which can be installed without a press if you split the bushing in half. I used the PSB because I wanted to keep my original BMW thrust arm and not a made in China suspension piece.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-X5-E-53...QAAOSw2s1UwZiM

Hows your experience with the poly bushings? Im in NYC and i worry the ride would end up being way too harsh on our roads... how noticeable is the difference?

upallnight 02-15-2018 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBody (Post 1128873)
Hows your experience with the poly bushings? Im in NYC and i worry the ride would end up being way too harsh on our roads... how noticeable is the difference?

Considering it's a truck that you are driving, the ride is not bad. I would say that the ride is the same as with the OEM bushings. I still have the stock springs and shocks on the truck so the ride didn't change at all.

dadysev 02-15-2018 11:09 PM

Only problem with stiff bushing is the cold weather (if you have to deal with that) and possible vibrations as there is less dampening from the oscillations of the wheel spin.

upallnight 02-15-2018 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dadysev (Post 1128904)
Only problem with stiff bushing is the cold weather (if you have to deal with that) and possible vibrations as there is less dampening from the oscillations of the wheel spin.

Learned long time ago from people posting about frozen CCV and hydrolocked engine not to drive the BMW when the temp gets below freezing or for short drives.


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