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My car is 2006 X5 3.0 6spMT with 130K.
The FRONT windows: New "Sliding Clip" and new plastic clip, all is good. Actually I Wrote a DIY for the FRONT glass. I have a specific question re REAR windows...since the REAR glass works perfectly and is rarely used, I suspect that the sliding clip and plastic clip are still OK. Anyone here recommends replacing them on a preventive basis? In other words, how many people here have a REAR glass dropping down unexpectedly while driving or let's say parking at airport? |
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I have. 2 rear windows and 1 front window on the first e53. 2 front windows on my current e53. Part of the reason I like to fix them preemptively. They will fail. And it always happens when you don't have time to work on a vehicle, or worse, when out of town at a hotel valet station in Dallas on the first day of a sectionals tennis weekend after arriving for a late check in at 11:00PM on Thursday night. :D |
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I just recently had to "secure" my sisters 2006 in place as the slider clip let go of the top cable end... the glass fell to the bottom of the door, but didn't shatter... Technically, I think it would work for a short time, but I unplugged the motor until replacement parts are obtained. I may just do the JB weld fix, but I don't have access to the vehicle all that often... I have to look into why Becky's are moving slowly... I should just take one day and do all of them on all of the X's.... Order the surplus of parts needed and tackle it head on.... To answer the OP question: I would do the corrective fix to all of them if you have the parts and time avail... BUT not really replace the regulator if it isn't showing signs of failure... Fix the failure point before hand so you don't have to replace the whole thing later on... So, yes and no... Shrug!! Cheers all!!! |
They move slowly from to much friction. Over time the added stress breaks parts. Lubricate the sliding surfaces with dry lube made for Windows. Brought my windows right back to normal speed (60 % faster!)
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ChiefRider. Been there, done that.
THE common wear issue on the E53 (and recent BMW's) are the plastic clips that attach the window the the window regulator. There are two part numbers - but them from a dealer, it's reasonable money. Buy genuine parts. You need the "long" type for the front doors (BMW 51338254781 they are black in color, two per door) and "short" version (they are tan/brown in color) for the rear doors. BMW lists the same (black) part for front & rear doors, however the tan/brown one fits more snugly for the rear windows - as you parts counter guy). In the US, they're about $1-2 each, similar in Europe - nothing that will break the bank :) The regulators do also fail, usually the plastic sliders that track the window up and down, as well as sometimes the pulley or cables. They can be lubed (when you open the doors up) - use synthetic grease. Failure is more common in cold climates (people who might open windows with iced up glass AND the cold/hot seasonal change isn't kind on the window to regulator clips). There are 2-3 vendors who sell the plastic slider parts if you want to rebuild yours. My experience - RR regulator failed. It was the crimps on the cables that failed, then the cables wound up so badly that it made NO sense to rebuild. I bought a used genuine regulator from the UK (there are good OEM aftermarket ones and junk aftermarket ones - be warned, I researched this a lot). Why used may you ask? (a) rear door windows aren't used as much as the front (b) rainy places use the windows less. (c) At $35 for used, I can replace a lot of them (3 years later and doing fine), and its less than 15 minutes to remove the door card and access the regulator. For the front doors - especially driver door - buy new OEM when it fails OR buy a good used one (in reserve) for your peace of mind. I personally have a reserve part from the RF door from the UK - which would have seen less use (it's it the passenger window there and the rainy country theory), so a good budget part - "just in case" part for the LHD driver door. I agree with the suggestion to keep some "duct tape" in the car - if this fails on the road. I did this to keep the RR window in place (window switch unplugged) while I was waiting for my window regulator to arrive. My advice and experience: Proactive replacement of ALL of the window clips on ALL doors made a HUGE different in quiet windows and eliminated any infrequent door rattles I had. The plastic clips were all damaged and broke apart as I replaced them. I combined this with front door speaker upgrades - handy since I had the door cards removed. Do this and Dynamat your doors at the same time. 3M silicone lube in the window felt / rubber gliders is a good idea as well. |
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