Good day!!!

Ummmmmmmmm....... I hate gremlins... I would say the very last thing that was done prior to the vibration is probably the cause... If that time frame is weeks or longer, it must be something that isn't corrected... When you rule out the logical, whatever is left must be the answer...

I recently had the center support itself fail... Not the bearing or the U-joint in the driveshaft, but the rubber support... I am talking about "Red"... My better half was driving it the most at the time... It would rattle and tap away when getting on the gas pretty good... Then, the ring broke and allowed the driveshaft to flop... Swapped it with my spare and all was right again...

Vibrations can be anything from proper wheel torque to chain slack in the TC... The replacement wheels rules out a lot of logical potential... You could lift if off the ground and let it rotate at idle... You might be able to spot the item out of round... I did that to discover a bad rear trailing arm... I was too focused on the front to consider the rear at the time... It was plain as day when I saw it...

Good luck and let us know what you discover!!!

Cheers!!

Thanks again for the suggestions - I ended up replacing the hub, and the vibration has mostly disappeared. I say mostly, as when I was putting the wheel back on after the fix I knocked a wheel weight off:banghead:

Have an appointment for an alignment and rebalance the tire later this week, so should be set.

Update on the status with this - I finally have it back on the road, after also suffering a rusted brake line...It did turn out to be the hub!

Since it came from PA, everything was rather rusted, and the ball joint was incredibly difficult to remove. In the process one was damaged, and threw the whole thing off. Frustrating, but glad to have it back on the road...

On a side note, if anyone ever needs to work on a brake line failure, I have found the best tool to get the flares just right with the lines still on the car

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bbbac843ad.jpg

Look like this? I paid like $23 on Amazon

I tried the bar that you have, but it doesn't work as well as this...I shot 100% with this little guyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...85ba7490ad.jpg

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Head Banger - Assistance Requseted
 

That is a double flare not iso flare tool. I couldn't locate an inline iso flare tool like the one you used. I suspect you tried a non iso version of the bar tool as well. Double flare might work with iso fitting but it's not the correct fitting and can fail under pressure. Flare fittings get weaker under pressure iso fittings tighten under pressure.

A "bubble flare" is open to the fluid pressure at the junction and the fluid pressure pushes the joint into the seat vs double flare where the pressure pushes the joint away from the seat.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...918de86f28.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5633ec0d7a.jpg

As you can see there is a common size hole that will make a seal under moderate pressure but can't be trusted at 2000psi of an emergency braking situation.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6402fb2279.jpg

I made this cross section of a test flare I made when dialing in my new tool to make perfect iso flares.

The red shows the internal pressure of the fluid the green shows the pressure from the "nut" fitting and the blue is the seat/sealing surface.

Notice that the red and blue push toward each other so the increase of pressure inside the pipe makes the seal tighter not looser.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f0a9a69e6d.jpg

Note how the example above is round no point. The tool used as directed did not make a proper flare I needed to start with the tubing not as far through the tool and ended up with a nearly perfect copy of the factory flare (right).

I'm hoping you had problems with the first tool because it was a single or double flare and somehow you got an iso inline tool to make a proper iso flare else you mated double to iso which is not a reliable connection for 2000psi.

The only inline iso tool I could find was this one:

CTA Tools 9210 Iso/Bubble In-Line Flaring Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDN3VPQ..._rI8mCbNTD9VXS

Too many people broke the tool trying to make flares (almost certainly could have been avoided with a little oil) but I bought the bar type. It also needed some help fixing before I could make proper flares: the threads totally sucked and I needed to clean up with tap and die also the gauge for depth was wrong for 4.5mm tubing.

My flares come out perfectly now in soft steel or NiCu which is all I will use. Stainless not worth the extra effort. Soft steel should be disallowed from car use.