Originally Posted by Maruzo (Post 1142322)

Hi all, does anyone know what this looped white cable is used for from the product photo?

Originally Posted by mr_robot (Post 1142344)

Where did you find this? Is this plug and play for the oem mk4 navi?


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Originally Posted by Crowz (Post 1142327)

On the ones I have bought like that it disables the grid that shows on the screen aka distance lines when you cut it.

It should say what it does in the instructions.

Originally Posted by 4.8isguy (Post 1142375)

I had similar image on my backup camera using navicks module. Ended up needing a resistor.

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1142365)

I cannot see any power return for the camera power anywhere. The red and black wires (+12v and gnd) for the camera appear to only connect to the camera decoder (whatever that is - a switch?) but there is only a single wire feeding the decoder...

If you get any signal from the camera the power return must be coming from the video cable and this could make for a very unstable picture.

Did the decoder come with the camera or did you buy it separately?

Try connecting the black wire from the camera to a ground screw somewhere and see if the image improves.

Originally Posted by Maruzo (Post 1142383)

Hi Wpoll,

Camera has a video cable and a power cable. The video cable has an additional wire besides the video feed. The power cable has + and - wire.

The way I wired the first camera was this:

video cable connects between the camera's video out to the cam video in on the av harness I purchased (see picture I posted earlier)

For the power cable, the positive wire is connected to the 12v wires from both sides of the backup light, as well as to the 12v on the switch box. The negative is connected to the negative from the switch box.

That's pretty much it. The camera works but due to a defect on the lens (mostly my doing), the image aren't sharp. So I purchased another thinking the wiring should be the same.

Anyway, that's where I'm at. I'll report back once I re-wire everything one more time to make sure I didn't miss anything.

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1142388)

The polarity of the wires on the reversing lights matters...

If you have connected to the left reversing light, then the red wire from the camera AND the red wire from the decoder need to connect to the White/Yellow wire on the reversing lamp. The black wire from the camera AND the black wire from the decoder need to connect to the Brown wire on the reversing lamp.

If you have connected to the right reversing light, then the red wire from the camera AND the red wire from the decoder need to connect to the Blue/Yellow wire on the reversing lamp. The black wire from the camera AND the black wire from the decoder need to connect tot the Brown wire on the reversing lamp.

Should work fine with a connection the either reversing lamp - just pick one. Or you could power the camera off one lamp and the decoder off the other, just to split the electrical load up.

Originally Posted by Crowz (Post 1142392)

Flickering and flashing can be caused by two things that come to mind.

One the Hz is wrong. American and European video signals are not the same.

Second is from something I remember reading on the forums a long time ago. It had to do with powering the camera off the rear lights. It was either the source itself or the computer doing the bulb check it does that was causing the video signal to go nuts. IF that's the problem you can diagnose it by providing a clean 12v power source like connecting to the battery itself long enough to see if the problem goes away.

Originally Posted by Maruzo (Post 1142406)

...

The only thing now is I do not have the parking lines. Do I need to cut the looped white wire built in on the camera cable?

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1142408)

Not sure on your camera - cut it and see! You can always twist it back together if it does something else. ;)

Glad it's going, btw... :thumbup:

Originally Posted by Maruzo (Post 1142453)

... On a side note, I took out the bulb inside the right license plate light holder and soldered the + and - of the camera's led light to the + and - of the bulb holder.

This allows the camera's led to light up when the plate light is turned on. But I am now getting a license plate light error.

Any idea what could have caused this error?

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1142461)

The extra electrical load of the camera LED power circuit is probably causing the lamp monitoring to trigger and error. There's a couple of ways to address this; either code out the lamp monitoring or use an electronic circuit (a high impedance voltage detector driving an electronic switch or relay to power the camera) to isolate the load.

Probably easier to code out the lamp monitoring....

Originally Posted by Maruzo (Post 1142487)

How do you code out the lamp monitoring? I have the BMW 1.4 scanner tool from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Scan-Diagnost...8-6&ref=sr_1_6

Works fine with the software that came with it. But my windows xp notebook crashed and i lost the software.

Any recommendations on a good software to run the coding?

Originally Posted by Overboost (Post 1142516)

BMW Scanner 1.4 will work on any Windows OS from XP up. Just get the proper drivers for Win 7 and up. As far as the cold/hot monitoring, here is a screen shot of the check boxes to clear.

http://i.imgur.com/C2YDFvx.jpg

Originally Posted by amancuso (Post 1142542)

Was this an expensive upgrade? Would love to do this to my X.


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Originally Posted by Maruzo (Post 1142581)

Hi Amancuso,



That depends on whether you want to connect to the oem nav screen via the oem tv module or not.



If you do, then you need to buy 1 oem tv module (around 100), 1 oem tv retrofit cable (135 fm ebay), 1 av input output loom for the camera's video connection(48 fm aliexpress), 1 tv output loom with green wire for the backup camera switch and a yellow wire for the tv function control using the nav buttons (this loom came with digital tuner, so no idea how much by itself), finally the ccd camera itself (between 25 to 40 on ebay)



You add all that up and it's around $323 before the digital tv tuner kit, which is around 130.



Total in parts including the tv tuner is around 450



I'm sure there're are cheaper ways, but you'll have to mix and match those parts and make sure it works for you.



Right now my backup camera works great, tv works as well, but i'm still trying to figure out how to get the audio working.



Good luck!

Originally Posted by Maruzo (Post 1142580)

Hi Overboost,

Thank you for the detailed settings! Which software is this one?

Originally Posted by mr_robot (Post 1142903)

So this camera direct fit to the stock license plate lights location? I read some don't actually fit the E53

Originally Posted by Maruzo (Post 1142580)

Hi Overboost,

Thank you for the detailed settings! Which software is this one?

Originally Posted by Overboost (Post 1142981)

Yes sir. Just go to your ZKE (GM3) settings and deselect selective locking. It is key dependant so unless you know which key you are using, just deselect them all. :thumbup:

http://images55.fotki.com/v608/photo...3coding-vi.png

Originally Posted by Maruzo (Post 1143087)

Worked like a treat. Now one click unlocks all doors!

Thanks Overboost!

By the way, is there a similar coding for removing the annoying chime when your driver door's open and the key is in ignition?

A lot of times we need ignition power while working on the car. It's such a hassle to have to endure that noise all day long!