DSC
 

Can anyone explain to me how exactly the DSC actually works?

It's because I have a crazy idea that if my DSC were somehow either slightly delayed or working backwards:dunno: it could be causing my ass-end to get squirrelly.

Thoughts? Magical fixes? WAG? SWAG?

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It works by controlling the torque and slippage to all four wheels from information that it gathers from various sensors. If it's not working properly then I would think you should be getting a warning and/or code unless maybe there is something wrong with a sensor that is reporting reasonable information that isn't accurate, like maybe the yaw sensor (not sure about what it's called.) Just spit ball' in though, mine works fine and I don't have any experience with DSC systems.

Pretty much what I thought, now I'm starting to think it's my DSC that is bad but not throwing codes because my ass-end is loosey goosey and no matter how much I try to convince myself that I have 50,000 hp and 25,000 lbs of torque it has to be something else and it's only momentary before it all tightens up.

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And DSC light works but never comes on? What are you using to check codes?

NOPE no lights and I use a Foxwell Nt-510 and also keep my Torque Pro on the rest of the time.

Somehow this seems like it's going to be a PiTA

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You need to get some BMW specific software running on a laptop to read the codes. Yes, might take some effort to track down such a problem. It could even be a transfer case issue but you need to be sure you are getting all the information first.

Has there been any work done on transfer case ??

IIRC, when the DSC is off (as in normal daily driving) and you lose enough grip to activate it, the DSC light will flash in conjunction with the activation. So if I gun it taking off from an icy stop sign, DSC will detect wheelspin, will slow down said wheels (feels very similar to a timing retard) to a speed where they can grip, and will transfer grip to other wheels with positive grip. The DSC light is going nuts during this process. It's not a blinker like flash IIRC. I believe it flashes directly in conjunction with whatever feedback signal it is getting from the wheels....so it's very fast and irregular while grip is intermittent or non-existent. Does that sound correct? We got a little snow today for the first time and I'd planned to take it out for it's annual test!

Only the resistor and motor but this issue predates that work

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I'll see about getting video from inside looking rearward. It's crazy noticeable when driving over the little white road markers like when they're used to put turn arrows in the lane.

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How long have you had the issue?? Why was the motor(I am assuming we are talking about the transfer case activating motor what ever it's called) and calibration resistor changed? and have you tried running the transfer case adaptation reset? Maybe you have the wrong resistor?

About 90 days or so.

Resistor was fried and the motor wouldn't fully activate and somehow it was causing an error in can that wouldn't let me take the X out of transport mode (way too involved) and everything was recalibrated after installation. At first I thought it was rear joints so all that was replaced, yadda yadda and I can't throw parts at it at the moment, but here's hoping for a pay raise....

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Edit: I guarantee I have the correct resistor after waiting forever for it to arrive in Saudi Arabia from Germany... ugh

Sounds like you are just experiencing laws of physics. DSC is post event correction it doesn't prevent unwanted yaw it corrects after it happens.

White stripes are slippery ask anybody that rides a motorcycle we avoid them like patches of ice.

Find a patch of empty pavement like an open parking lot with some snow on it (haa haa) some "Arabian snow" e g sand and do some power slides. Give a little too much throttle during a curve at a low speed. The car should start to oversteer (kick out the back end) and the DSC light should blink while the car bucks and bumps while it does it's magic and prevents a spin it will feel like chaos until things are smooth again.

If you get the car to over yaw and the DSC light blinks and the car "bucks" and then jerks back to straight then everything is working as designed

:iagree:

... with what Andrew just said - the back end "steps out", the 4x4 (DSC) lamp flashes and it's all over - car is normal again.

It feels kinda weird - you still get the initial "twitch" as the back end steps out but it isn't followed by the big lurid slide that normally follows. More like a second twitch and you're back on track.

I haven't pushed this too hard though - just a few times on wet roads so I get familiar with it. Next time we get some snow down here (in 6-9 months) I might give it a go... ;)

Once you get the DSC to kick on try the same with it disabled. It will usually result being turned 90° if on snow. I did a test on fresh snow in a bit parking lot turning a constant radius turn right near the braking point and pressed the DSC button. Instant spin out!


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So, how is this going? any progress?

Well... I did end up with a nuked DSC and I am looking for one now, so I guess that means I'll have the dot

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Nuked?

Isn't the DSC module part of the ABS module?

And I don't think a "tamper dot" is likely - that's a result of the distance recording in the LKM and IKE not matching. Pretty sure you can change out the ABS/DSC module with little difficulty - although it does need coding with the VIN of the car and calibration of the steering angle sensor (NCS for the first and INPA for the second).

Really?

I thought that whenever you added a part that the ViN had to be changed to match the vehicle it gave the tamper dot.

Well some good news then, along with what I found wedged next to the drivers side seat rails.... a Mont Blanc silver pen!!

Probably the only unexpected thing I found in the X that hasn't cost me money!! [emoji38]

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Excellent!

Tah Dah...!!

Awesome find but if had been a gold bar I wouldn't have complained[emoji38]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2f461a3127.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e98946cedb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8051e2d2eb.jpg

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I just read that nt510 can code the abs module and I think it can also do the steering angle calibration.

There's a place state side that rebuilds the abs module for $150. If you have just the right model number you can swap without programming he has a list of which model numbers


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Thanks for the info.

I went looking through the NT-510 and found where to code but when the NT-510 gives you a big warning that the operation can only be done once it does up the pucker factor. [emoji38]

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Yikes so I believe that probably means you need a zero'd out one. Question is, can you buy a refurbished one that is blanked out

I don't know but I do know what part of town I can get one that's fallen off a truck...[emoji38]

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Email the guy at cheapabs.com I'm pretty sure he will know the answer. He's probably buy your old one for $50 also.

Nope...the odometer tamper dot only illuminates under one condition...and that is when the VIN coded into the IKE (instr cluster) doesn't match the VIN coded into the LCM (despite the many incorrect statements you run across on the internet). :cool:


The odometer tamper dot illuminates ONLY under the condition outlined in the 1st data point in the info below...yes, ONLY the 1st data point:

http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...mper%20Dot.jpg

Thanks for the clarification, Qsilver7. :thumbup:

I'm currently working on the IKE EEPROM data for a motorcycle and have pages of hex code in front of me, trying to decipher the indecipherable... this system stores the distance data in multiple fields for both redundancy and temper protection, so I wandered "off piste" a little when taking about the E53 IKE/LKM (LCM) relationship. :rolleyes:

So...... um Yeah?

I will see how this goes but so far it's like masturbating with a cheese grater, slightly amusing but mostly painful. [emoji38]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eabf321751.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d0a8c467e6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1581a0c9a8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a2e620f430.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b408fb5ef1.jpg

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Cleared the issue but after installation I had trifecta lights that caused no problems but wouldn't clear. I went into service and put everything to sleep then restarted and everything was clear.

Still not sure about why fuel trim (real time) is looking like this though.....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c78ad92157.jpg

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LT shouldn't change much. Mine has typically been 0.02 to 0.05 Ms since I reset the fuel adaptations


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After 10km the LT shows 23.2 but in real time it's actually from the short term. So I guess it's back to work searching for a new sensor https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2ba8194cf8.jpg

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What do you mean "real time?" The short term integrator is always going to try to be near zero(128), If it needs to go too far to correct the mixture it then bumps the long term up or down a step and again try to see if it can keep up. Unless this works differently somehow?

23 a lot something out of whack.

I recently cleaned wife's MAF and a week later she started getting fuel trim errors. I reset her adaptations today and now I the post cat O2 now are behaving properly. If you changed anything in the fuel feedback loop reset your adaptations and see if your fuel trim comes back into alignment


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Realtime or live not just a snapshot. "They" say that the short term trim can be up to 10% before SES kicks in. Mine seem to stick around 3-5% short term and 0.02 to 0.05 ms long term.

Yeah but I think it's the crap sensors that I had to get over here as they seem to die quickly with the Saudi fuel or I didn't clear the adaptations like I thought I did.... It's always something that is either a pita to get or it's just the joy of the holiday[emoji38]

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Check long term trim after clear. The unit will tell you the timing of how long and when to turn the ignition off then back on to store the cleared value but doesn't actually do it. You have to count to twenty with the key off then turn it back on. If you're successful the long term trim will be 0.0 for the first good while of the next drive cycle.

I just did wife's today. Mine over a week ago and it's not given me a problem since

Thanks I'll give it a try after work today.

Merry Christmas back in the land of the big PX. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e5df31395c.jpg

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Mine failed. Go to the yard and pull the exact year make and model and make sure the part numbers match. All you need to do is align the steering wheel calibration and you're set.

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[emoji38]
Oh I would if I could, but over here it's so hit or miss on used parts that it's not funny...

I'm on the search now, but I may have to go to Dubai, Kuwait or Abu Dhabi if I can't get it here or even God forbid the stealership.

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