WHY are these not on with my High Beams?
 

The first pic below is my current HB setup. This is the drivers side (left in USA), headlight. Why is the inner light not on??? It would seem to me this should be on with my HB xenon. The second pic is my low beams with my HID fogs, notice that light is not on again, only my angel eyes. Lastly is a pic of what I want. The only way currently to make this happen is to hold the "flash to pass" mode on the stalk. WHY? Has my X been coded to change this or did the '05 come from the factory this way. The xenons alone on high beam are not sufficient. They don't throw as much light as the low beams with the fogs. In case anyone is wondering the lights are aimed properly. My question is: why aren't, what I would consider my HB's, on when the xenons are on HB? I am new to this SAV and am learing, so any help is appreciated. TIA

Your X is has bixenon headlights and that is factory operation. It is the same on mine and everyone who hasn't additionally coded the LCM to fire the halogen high beams along with the bixenon high beams.

I know you have been trying to get more light but mine are awesome and lights up the road beautifully. I have a couple of questions.

1. Put your X in automatic lights setting. Put it against a wall and turn the ignition on. Do your headlights move up/down a slightly sideways? This would indicate the dynamic functionality is working.

2. Hard to tell by the night time photos but your lenses look cloudy. Take a shot today and post it up so I can see better. If they are as cloudy as they look to me, no wonder you're not getting the proper lighting.

Thanks overboost, I'll post a pic tonite of them shining on my garage. Yes, I have the dynamic lights, they both move, both ways. I am in the process of clearing the oxidation from the lights and yes they were cloudy. I only am 3/4 done on the drivers headlight though. I've had other cars with bi-xenons and xenon HID's alone and in their current state, mine don't compare. Would I need to use a dealer to get it coded to include these with the HB's? I have iCarly, which I don't think will do it, and an NT 510 about which I don't know.
Below are pics of the progress on the oxidation removal. Left light (with the tape around it) and right, which hasn't been started yet. Thanks again for your help, I thought you might chime in! :thumbup:

I would also look at the replacing the bulbs. They dim and color shift with age. Here is a quick chart I found

0 hours = 3200 lumens (100%)
200 hours = 2880 lumens (90%)
1000 hours = 2560 lumens (80%)
1500 hours = 2400 lumens (75%)
2000 hours = 2240 lumens (70%)


So even after 2000 hours (that's 5 1/2 years of one hour per day), they're still far brighter than halogens.

Good idea, jcp240z. Right now these xenons don't compare with the halogens in the "flash to pass" lights. I will buy some new bulbs when I finish resurfacing the current lenses. Will I need new ballasts too or do they come with the bulb? Mine have a blueish tint, very slight, but it's there. I'm beginning to wonder if a PO changed them at some point in the past...
Thanks for your ideas.

Start with the lenses. I used the 3M kit a couple of years ago with amazing results. I would guess that is the majority of your lighting issues. Even new/upgraded bulbs will not be beneficial until you get those clear again. Take your time and get more sandpaper if you need it. Mine took about an hour a side. :thumbup:

Guys on the E46F forum swear by the Phillips Xtreme Vision D2S bulbs if you decide to upgrade the bulbs.

Bixenons use a flapper inside that changes from low beam to high beam. This works by pushing the lever forward.

The inner reflector bowl is used as “flash to pass” feature which uses the halogon bulb to “flash” people.

I prefer this way since honking sometimes comes off as rude and use flash to pass by pulling the lever towards you.

Another car I have only has bixenons and people can’t tell I’m flashing them.

Nothing else needed - just a pair of D2S HID lamps/bulbs.

For the ultimate in headlight output, some suggest these...

https://www.powerbulbs.com/uploads/i...-1_620_620.jpg

From here ... https://www.powerbulbs.com/product/o...laser-d2s-twin

BTW, in some markets the headlights operate as you are wanting. My car does this, from the factory. HB is both a lifted HID (Xenon) AND the inner H1 halogen. :thumbup:

Also is not just the bulb but the bowl inside the projector wears out as well. The reflector material becomes dull.

It's probably overkill but I'm in the process of retrofitting EVOXR 2.0 projectors into my euro dynamic headlights.

According to my retrofitter (lightwerkz) these projectors are direct fit into the OEM housing and maintains the AHL(dynamic) feature.

So it will have fresh bulbs, fresh bowl and clear projector lens vs the frosted OEM ones. The results will be a very sharp cut off and much brighter/crisper output.


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Can you please post some pictures after the installation to see the difference. Thanks

Im interested as well, sounds like quite a retrofit.

In regards to coding all 4 lights, I did this in NCSexpert, it is a numbered variable, so you will need to lookup which value corresponds to all 4 on with high beams.

All you need to do is put killer driving light bulbs in the driving light sockets (the ones in the bumper) since this will fix the low beam light output perfectly.

Then code the inner high beam lights (the halogen ones) to come on with low beam xenon lights.

Presto you now have more light output than a 747 landing at night :)

This shows how to code them :

Coding High Beam lights with xenons | Crowz Nest


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This shows the bulbs to use in the bumper lights.

BMW X5 Driving Lights | Crowz Nest


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This is the stock xenon low beams by themselves.

http://crowz.narmir.com/wp-content/u...612_211239.jpg


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This is the stock low beam xenon lights AND the led driving lights (ones in the bumper).

http://crowz.narmir.com/wp-content/u...612_211235.jpg

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This super short clips shows them in action in a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUIaeS4CsGE

Another shot of them on from the front. Doesn't really do them justice.

http://crowz.narmir.com/wp-content/u...all-lights.jpg

The coding of the highbeams to come on with the xenons was the final piece of the puzzle. The halogen highbeams are actually VERY bright aand their yellowish color combine with the xenon white color makes driving a night a dream. Its more natural and fills in better. The e53 with this setup kicks my 2013 E70's butt on night driving.

Bluish xenons could be bulbs around the 5000 - 6000 kelvins range. Some don't understand the numerical luminosity range and assume the higher the number the greater the luminosity.

A xenon bulb between 4500-5000 kelvins will be whiter and have greater luminosity for the human eye. A bluer hue is lesser luminosity.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...PIAtB3_UgQUnwD

Thanks Crowz, I had already favorited your website! Found it yesterday when searching. Problem: I've downloaded the INPA software and instruction manual but don't know which interface cable to buy. I see several on Amazon but some only run on XT or NT which I don't have. Which cable should I get and from who? The interface cable listed on the site where I got the software cannot be shipped to the US.

Thanks again.

Thanks Qsilver7, I'm familiar with the difference between kelvin color temp and lumen output. I'd say these are around 6000K kelvin, no idea what the lumen output is. I prefer 5000K for my cars, I like the white light. Thanks again, I think some different bulbs and a good headlight buffing are in my future.

I just took some pics with my camera on manual and the same settings for each pic so the difference in output can be seen. I need to mention the fogs/driving lights have been replaced with high power LED's.

First pic is high beams alone.

Second pic is low beams alone.

Third is HB and Lows together (holding the "flash to pass" mode on)

Lows and the LED fogs/driving lights.

As you can see, not a great difference between highs and lows. The addition of the "flash..." lights makes a great and wanted difference. The last is to show the fogs/driving light up the short range area well.

Thanks to all for the help! :thumbup::thumbup:

The last one I bought was from a guy in Romania on ebay. I think that's the normal purchasing method most go with. Had the cable and a disc with the software on it and runs on all versions of windows. I don't have a link since it changes often.

I think it was $39.

The hid bulbs I have in the E53 are the night breaker osram ones overboost posted earlier. They are a strange color. Not really pure white but a bit off white towards the yellow spectrum. That's not saying they are yellow at all just more that direction than towards the blue spectrum.

I went with those first in a desperate attempt to get some light out of the headlights. When I bought the X5 the headlights were HORRIBLE. Between the lenses needing polishing back clear and the poor light output it wasn't safe to drive. Polishing the lenses helped but even with the night breakers they do not put out what they should. Im convinced the bowls of the headlights are failing aka the reflective material is coming off or tarnishing.

But since it has the adaptive headlights its not feasible to fix them. So I went with the method I mentioned above and it now has the brightest lights of anything I own. The hids still suck but you cant tell it now :)

Has anyone got a source for the cable that is a reliable seller and the cable will work on my E53 and windows 10? I know the windows 10 part might be tough but I don't have anything that is running XP or NT... Any heop is appreciated!

BMW Tools (INPA, NCS Expert, etc) is native to Win XP. However there are guys that have it successfully running on Win 7, Win 10 with some tweaking. I struggled several weeks trying to get it to run on Win 10 before just buying a cheap Panasonic Toughbook running Win XP off fleaBay for $75. It just wasn't worth my time to struggle anymore and have all my BMW software suites running on this machine and is dedicated to my BMWs only.

You will need a specific cable for both BMW Tools and BMW Scanner 1.4. What you are trying to do with your high beams will require BMW Tools/NCS Expert. I also suggest getting NCS Dummy for translation as all the trace file names can be difficult to decipher.

The cable for BMW Tools is a BMW K+D CAN cable and you will need pins 7 and 8 jumped in the dongle itself to read all the modules. I had to solder the bridge on mine as it came unbridged. (-2006 needs the bridge, 2007+ does not) Here is a link to what it looks like.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Whol...959683848.html

Unfortunately you are 350 miles away or I would offer to just do it for you...

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/attach...1&d=1485994586

I lived in NC for 23 years, beautiful state. I was other end of the state from you though. Appreciate the thought.

I have come to the conclusion that the old laptop is the way to go, so I will start looking...

I already downloaded INPA and NCS expert but I haven't installed them anywhere.

I have seen cables everywhere at a wide range of prices but they vary on what models they cover. They all didn't include the E53. So I haven't pulled the trigger yet.

Well, I finally got lucky. Started looking for a laptop and found a ToughBook on Ebay, with 20 minutes left. It was a buy-it-now ($99) or Best offer. I offered $60, 5 mins. later he countered with $61, so I bought it. Runs XP service pack 3 and has a 360 gig HDD. It should do the job I believe.

Another question. I attempted to change the expansion tank (I won't get in to that...) Now I have a constant Low Coolant Level warning. The cooling system is full, according to the level sensor. Did I futz up the level sensor when I put it in? Or did I not burp the system properly and I have a bubble somewhere? As always, any advice is appreciated! :thumbup:

If you buy a cable plus software from eBay etc., then you get the whole shebang.

If you download the various software apps (like I did) you can get a decent cable from One stop Electronics.

I got just the K-Line cable (as I only have an E53)

http://www.one-stop-electronics.com/...&product_id=22

You can also get a K+DCAN cable...

http://www.one-stop-electronics.com/...&product_id=16

Re. the expansion tank - some of the aftermarket expansion tanks lack the internal magnet for the coolant level sensor. The level sensor will not work with these tanks. Did you get the correct tank? :dunno:

I just ordered a cable like yours, is there anything else I need besides the software and laptop?

I'm pretty sure I got the right tank, I placed them side by side and could not find a difference. Even got out my calipers to measure the opening on the bottom. They were identicle. It came with a new sender so I assume it had a magnet. I couldn't get it to seal on the bottom fitting. Everything else was fine. I ended up putting the old tank back on as I needed it. Thanks for the help, I'll get this sorted if it kills me... :bustingup

Just to be clear, there is no coolant in the sensor section of the tank. No sealing needed, it just needs to twist in place and be connected.

Maybe I'm confusing it with something else. What I'm referring to has two wires and is about 2.5" long and attaches through the bottom of the tank. A 90 degree twist locks it in place. I didn't have trouble with that leaking, the leak was the openning immediately next to it, about 1.5" in diameter, that attaches to an elbow coming out of the radiator. I could not get that connection to seat and seal. Hope this makes more sense. Right now, my coolant level indicator rises about an inch and a half above the openning of the tank (with cap removed). Thanks for pointing that out.

I see. Ok, you are not leaking from the sensor where it plugs into the expansion tank. You are leaking where the auto transmission thermostat is. Did the clip that holds the tank down go in place? Maybe an oring issue? What about the transmission thermostat, did you replace that? They almost always break when you change expansion tanks. :dunno:

Wow. My E38 is pretty dim, this is great info. I've never replaced the bulbs.

The clip would slide into place but I don't beleive the tank was ever on the fitting far enough for the clip to get in the grooves. I have a trans tstat but I didn't notice one on the car. Where was it supposed to be? Maybe this is why I cannot get the new tank to seat on the elbow

I just looked at a diagram on RealOEM of the cooling system. I think I see part, if not all, of my problem... I didn't know the tstat went inside the bottom of the expansion tank. I had never noticed that before. I was trying to connect it without the tstat. No wonder... Now its my turn to :dunno:
Thanks for helping me out. I would never have known that if you hadn't induced me to study the diagram. Now I will try it with the thermostat, but no time soon. The tank I have isn't leaking I was just doing some PM on the cooling system. I have a new thermo and some hoses too. Thanks again.

The thermostat actually goes into the lower expansion tank bracket. The Expansion tank goes over it but without it I cant see fitting an issue. I would recommend getting the trans thermostat back in there, it helps heat the transmission when cold and keeps it cool when hot. If the old one is broken it could obstruct coolant flow and overheat the trans. Not something you want...

https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techar...mall/pic15.jpg

An excellent pic. Thank you. Now it is becoming clear in my mind how these parts are supposed to fit together. I think mine may have had a broken tstat in the lower bracket and that was impeding the fitting of the tank. I won't be able to touch it until this weekend though.

I bought one of these cables from One Stop.... Then after completing the sale found out they are in China! I'll probably get it sometime in June... I assume one end plugs in the laptop and the other the OBD port? Or will I need another adapter?

Usually China shipments are not too bad. But I would expect you will be deep into January before you see it. Too late to cancel the order and find a supplier stateside? :dunno:

It's almost worth the $15 to buy one in the states and wait for the other to use as a spare. My laptop is due today, we'll see how quick I get that up and running.

The BMW Tools install will probably take some time and reading. I know it tore me up when I first did it but I was trying to use Win8. Once I got the XP machine it went pretty easy but there are still some tweaks here and there. E53 daten files, etc...

From memory mine arrived pretty quickly but that was over five years ago....

You might need a USB A to USB B cable - mine didn't come with one. Same USB cable most printers use.

I looked back at what I ordered and I think I definitely will need a cable. I only ordered the interface. So... I ordered a complete cable on eBay. Should be here next week. Laptop didn’t make it yesterday, arriving today. Apparently the laptop has a 360gig HDD with a lot of software already on it. I plan to look through it, keep what’s useful (probably very little) and trash the rest before I try to load the BMW software.


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I had exactly that problem when I changed my cracked tank. Couldn't get it to fit until I realized the stat had blown apart and the internal spring wouldn't allow it to seat properly. Pulled the broken parts out and it went in as it was supposed to. Ordered a new stat and replaced it the next week.

Thanks, glad to know that's a possibility. I gave up and put the old tank back in (it would fit for some reason) and I haven't had time to get back at it. In the meantime I've added an upper hose, aux. pump and a T-stat to the list of to-do's for my cooling system. After that's done I want to use my new software and turn that useless "temp gauge" into something that actually tells me some useful information...:thumbup::thumbup:

Cal, remind me what cable(s) you bought for the laptop. The temp gauge buffer mod is done with BMW Scanner 1.4 but your pass to flash halogens with bixenon high beams is BMW Tools. Both are different software tools that take different cables. You need the K+D CAN cable for BMW Tools and the BWW Scanner 1.4 takes its own cable. Just making sure you got both coming...

Thanks for watching out for me Overboost, as you can see, when it comes to this software, I'm lost. Below are links to what I have bought so far. I suspect I will need some more though....

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.one-stop-electronics.com/...&product_id=22

Get this one coming for BMW Scanner 1.4

Go on fleaBay or Amazon and search PA Soft 1.4 and/or BMW Scanner 1.4. Again look for a US seller.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....rL._SX425_.jpg

Edit!

Posted on wrong tread. Sorry!

Will this one work?:
https://smile.amazon.com/Jahyshow-Sc...ds=PA+Soft+1.4

And/or this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-SCANNER...3/173543195529

Both of those are correct. I would go with the fleaBay one as the Amazon seller had some poor feedback. There are some cheap Chinese units that don't work out there, just get from a known seller that has sold them in the past.

Or, just road trip that baby down here to the lake and we'll have a code fest... :thumbup:

OK Thanks! I'll ask Santa!

Seriously, thank you for the support. I hope I don't have to bother you as much when the stuff gets here.

I edited my post after your reply...

With all the cash I'm spending on cables and laptops I probably should, it would be cheaper! :thumbup:

Below are the cable and interface plug I have so far. What else will I need? Besides the software and laptop I already have.

TIA

Time. And patience. ;)

There's a bit of setup involved in getting it all running, then once it's running it takes a bit of time to learn the tools.

You'll need a USB cable for the KK adapter but the DCAN-K adapter will work on your e53 as well. I suggest you just use that one.

You need to install drivers for the adapters when you plug them in. It sometimes helps to have the car end attached to the car before plugging in to the laptop for the first time, as the adapters are sometimes powered by the car. I've not found that to be the case though.

What setup instructions have you to work from? And what BMW toosare you wanting to get running first?

I've been working with Overboost, so far I have INPA, BMW 1.4 and one other that I can't remember at the moment. They are installed on my Toughbook laptop running XP. My first goal is to get my lights the way I want them, if that's possible.

You're in good hands - Overboost is the man!

I assume you have another adapter on the way for the BMW Scanner - it won't work with the ones in the images above. It uses a custom adapter.

It's also the easiest to get up and running and will likely do what you want lighting-wise.

^ This

You will need the BMW Scanner 1.4 dongle for BMW Scanner 1.4 to work but I think your request was to have halogens on with xenon high beams. You will use the NCS Expert and NCS Dummies for that coding and the K+D CAN cable is used for that.

Happy to help you Cal when your ready.

I am out of town this week for our first race of 2019 in Daytona. I get back Sunday night, hopefully with a win. :thumbup:

Thanks for the info. I think I have the software needed, not sure about the dongle though.
Beautiful car. Closest I ever came to something like that was my '67 Impala SS 396. Lots of fun but nothing like the beauty your with!

Good luck in Daytona, I'll be in touch next week!

Got these in the mail today. The 1.4.0 interface and cable! Next week we'll try some coding! I'll get those damn headlights on with my HID's if I have to wire it myself!