| oldskewel |
12-22-2018 07:35 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by 80stech
(Post 1149876)
Well turns out the red gauge light gets turned on by a switch in the dual coolant temperature sender/switch. The NTC resistance portion feeds into the DME which works the gauge over whatever bus that is on and the NC switch portion goes directly to the light. So no coding that! ;( but would works out nicely for someone who wants to splice in an Arduino or voltage comparator to work the light.
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Nice that they have a separate sensor for the light vs. the gauge needle. Good redundancy.
I'd be concerned about some other system using that sensor before modifying it.
But if it's independent and you just want to change the temp the light comes on at, wouldn't it be most easily done with a resistor?
For example, looking at overboost's post #45, if those numbers were correct for our cars (I know they are not confirmed, but as an example, if they were correct ...), and if we found that the light came on at 120*C and we wanted it on at 110*C (again, just taking easy numbers here for the example) ...
The light would currently come on when resistance dropped below 115 Ohms (at 120*C). We want it to come on at 110*C (when the actual resistance is 140 Ohms). So we want to add a resistor that makes 140 Ohms look like 115 Ohms. To do that, you wire one in parallel with a resistance = (140 * 115) / (140-115) = 644 Ohms, in this example.
Would that help?
I have not even done the firmware parameter re-coding yet (partly because I don't even have an INPA or anything beyond a standard OBD2 reader), but I think the warning light would be at least as important as the needle.
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