Oh I saw that thread. All new DHC sold by BMW is the revised design where the cap of the boden cable was redesigned to prevent it from freezing over but I don't think that's what is causing the problem.

When the actuator is frozen, both inner and outer handle still works as in able to pull them but nothing happens.


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http://bimmerboard.com/members/q/ori...%20TSB%201.jpg

This is all I could find searching.

Yeah, my left and right all have new DHC and still froze.

There are several ways they freeze as I covered above. If the handle moves but is spongy and won't lift fully the DHC is frozen.

If the handle won't lift at all the actuator is frozen. Heat gun into the latch will defrost that condition very quickly.

If the handle lifts fully and the door will pull out a few mm, the door seal is frozen.

The main part that freezes up is the door actuator. I'm not sure how effective any treatment of the self destruct button on the DHC is and I've cut mine off so that's no longer part of my concern.

Now my main issue is the actuator lever freezing.

I have to take the driver door apart to fix the freeze issue. I'm leaning toward adding a sheet of Teflon (if I can source some) between the two parts that freeze together.

If I can make them touch but have no strength it will form a tiny film of ice that will break free every time. Possibly a layer of wd or thicker grease will repel the water in the first place.

Chime in people with your symptoms so we can determine which is the more common failure modes. I'll make another reference:

When your door is frozen, what symptoms suggest what is the failure?

If the outer door handle won't lift more than millimeters, then the actuator lever is frozen.

Treatment: open from inside, use a heat gun (carefully there are plastic parts in the actuator), then spray some water repelling agent into the lever.

Cure: still working on that

If the outer door handle lifts 1/3 to 1/2 then binds and doesn't allow the actuator to operate, that's clearly the self destruct button in the DHC.

Treatment: needs to be warmed up: usually a 30 minute drive will do the trick.

Cure: cut off the tab from the self destruct button.

Long term treatment easier than the cure: remove the lock cylinder or the fake one, and spray some water repelling light grease on the self destruct lever spring so it won't get stuck in frost

If the handle lifts like normal and you can move the door a few mm, that's means the door seal is frozen.

Treatment: easiest method is to climb in the car from three opposite door, pull the inner handle and push with your feet.

Alternative: lower window if not frozen using the key from outside: (Hold the unlock button on the key fob or hold they key in the unlock position until the windows go down, then pull the inside handle and pull the door from the bottom edge of the open window.

Alternate two: push very firm all around the door frame listening for the sound of the ice cracking. Work your way around the door. You should be able to push the door in 4-6 mm each. push then pull, keep repeating until the door opens.

So if the door handle doesn't lift or barely lifts a mm, the DHC can handle enough force to pull it hard to break the ice?


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Great explanation Andrew. This should be a sticky. Any mods left here?

It should be in the owner's manual.

The self destruct lever is a tragically bad design (BMW agrees since they removed from newer models) but the freezing arm on the actuator thats just bad luck.

My wife learned "the rules" of X5 DHC (Don't Force it when frozen) and hasn't broken a DHC since.

All four or her actuator primary lock motors failed which made it extra interesting to gain access when her only door that unlocks from outside was frozen (entry through the tailgate only option).

So now I have both front door lock motors fixed both DHC self destruct tabs removed and the passenger front actuator modified so it won't ice up Sou easily. (And if does can be unstuck much more easily)

I tried to make a water shed to keep water off but that won't help apparently the water condenses onto the metal. I'm working on a clever permanent fix and think I've just figured it out.

I will take photos for sure and makes the fix go from level 7 to level 5 difficulty: no fancy dremel work involved.

I'm pretty sure I've figured out a way to keep 99.5% of the water out and I'll be sharing soon.

After my fix, I could break the ice free without damage to the DHC. Normally when the actuator is frozen you could probably lift the car by the handle before it will break free from the ice. The weak link is the DHC which Usually breaks at the hinge.

If the handle moves a good amount before stopping it's the DHC that is still locked with the self destruct lever don't pull it won't help at all.

If it barely moves it's the actuator frozen and a fair chance a couple quick tugs will break the ice free. If it doesn't then open the door from the inside and use heat to defrost.