I don't want to tear it down and then have it not fix it... I don't like going in twice if possible (though I realize the irony in trying a "repair" vs. a new part). I don't mind doing work, but I HATE down time if I can avoid it. I've thrown many perfectly functional parts in the recycling pile as a result of preventative maintenance. Everyone has their chosen method of running these money hungry pigs right? :dunno: ;)

I was thinking the same as I was typing. I frequently order a part in-case from a returns friendly supplier. Then if I can fix it, I can return it and if I can't I have the replacement part on hand.


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^I hear you. If it's anything like the sensors in the E30 AFM (which it appears to be) the contact strip is not usually the problem. The contactors wear out and no longer make reliable contact to the strip whose composition escapes me right now. But cleaning the contact strip and replacing the ring with the contacts should repair it. I'll compare the two when it gets here. Coming from Germany though so could be a week, could be a month. :)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ebfdb142c2.jpg

From the kit it appears this is the wiper. It looks exactly like the wiper inside a camera zoom lens.

If that's the case, a good cleaning and re-tension the spring sweeps. In wosrt cases when the spring lost its flex, I've put rubber under to add force.

The curved tips of the contacts wear away and sharp ends don't make good contact. Replacing the contacts is good plan for sensors worn in that way...

Definitely better to replace but I've repaired similar by bending in a new curve. As long as it can be calibrated to match the sightly new offset it will work..

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b0a8aeb8e7.jpg

Yellow arrow old, blue new. I have special tricks for dealing with tiny things like this, but a drill bit will work as a form to put under the fingers and I would probably use a razor blade to push down and make the bend.

Since I'm pretty sure my car needs this, I will likely get my hands on a repair kit or a pick n pull before I risk destroying mine.

Here's the thing with sliding contacts: I had one once that varied from 0.1 Ω to 1.8 Ω as it slid.

Two drops of deoxit gold and 20-30 quick slides to work it in and it went to 30-35 mΩ (0.035-40). Literally 60x better conductivity.

In my case where I had two hiccups in 8 months, a simple boost in conductivity might punt the problem for years.


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Well got this done and in yesterday. Man is access under the dash a PITA when you are 6'8"! I have a nice bruise on my right ribs from the seat rail. Anyway, this appears to have remedied the SAS codes though I wont know for sure until I put some miles on the truck. I did read the life data via the Foxwell and the sensor was doing what it is supposed to.

My contacts were VERY worn at 118,000 miles. All the fingers were worn off completely. The kit appears to be quality and it comes with a nice T6 driver so at least you get a tool out of too. Kind of expensive for what it is... but it's only half the price of a new sensor so I can't fault the seller much.

https://i.postimg.cc/fkQNsJ4z/Steeri...e-Sensor-1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/ZYBvJ2k2/Steeri...e-Sensor-2.jpg

Dayamn. Can’t we just get those metal brush things from somewhere. Still seems like an expensive repair.

If you have an old broken zoom lens from an SLR camera it will have the same type of contact. A typical electrical relay will have half a dozen springs made of springy copper that should work great to make some sliding contacts.

If my car wigs out again or as a preemptive strike, I'm thinking of taking mine apart to work on a fix.

I'm thinking maybe I'll replace the contact with the actual silver contact from the relay, might be a better solution than the fingers.

I would drill and tap the aluminum ring and use a tiny screw from an old iPhone or watch to mount it.

Q: are the two contacts going to two places or just redundant?

Also: very odd that the finger tips point up. That's not the way I would expect nor have ever seen. I'm wondering if the guy who makes the kit reversed them as an attempt to increase the pressure to reduce resistance. The end of the spring fingers usually curves away from the surface to help it glide over the surface like snow skis.