Should I Replace Transfer Case for $3400?
 

Hey All, last week my E53 got the 4x4, Brake, and ABS light displayed on the instrument cluster. Then it went away after constantly turning the car on and off to see if I could hear any noise beneath the car (which I sort of did). Anyways, the lights went off and car drove normal again but I decided to take my car to my Indy so they can run a diagnoses. My indy stated that they found codes stored in the computer stating that the transfer case motor is bad and the condition of the oil is also bad. He recommends that we replace the transfer case for a whole new remanufactured unit and the total cost for parts and labor will be $3400. What do you think I should do? I was thinking that I can just replace the gear with a new carbon one that many people have done and also replace the transfer case oil as well. However, he said that if the computer is stating the oil is bad then there is the possibility of metal shavings and other contaminants in the oil, and that simply fixing the gear for the motor alone won't last long.

So should I go ahead and let them replace the whole transfer case or do you think I can save thousands of dollars and just replace the gear and oil? Also I would need INPA to reset the adaptations for the transfer case oil right?

Also my X5 is a 2004 4.4i. Thanks in advance!

I would try changing the oil first and go from there. Mine used to make a loud whining noise for quite sometime but no dash lights or codes. I replaced the oil and used INPA to reset the transfer case. The noise gradually subsided and completely went away in about a month. This was about 3 years ago.

The lights and whirling noise is the worn gear on the actuator motor. It’s literally a free fix if you flip it correctly. $13 if you buy a new gear.

And there is a thread on this as well as a member-produced YouTube video showing how to do the fix (which is easy).

1+,

Flip the plastic gear 180 degrees. In fact, no need to separate the electric motor from the housing.

Once done, change the oil, you can buy the Ravenol brand at FCPEuro for $20 (instead of $45 for BMW brand oil).

That indy should be ashamed. Gear + gear oil change and you are back on the road for less than $300 parts + shop time. And that's generous to the shop but at least fair to the customer. They could warn you that it may not work but that they would recommend trying that before a new transfer case. $300 vs $3400... that's a no-brainer roll of the dice.

Thank you all for the replies and advice! I figured it would be best to try and replace the gear and replace the oil! I will pick up the car and take it home tomorrow. Any recommendations on which brand gear to buy?

I saw this one from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/MTC-122053-Tr...ustomerReviews

and I saw this whole rebuild kit from ECS Tuning:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...QaAhNnEALw_wcB

Should I go for the Genuine BMW part or go with the Amazon part hoping it'll last and has no manufacturing defects shown in the photos in the review section.

Also can you clarify what you mean by flipping the plastic gear 180 degrees?

If your not super handy with a wrench I would replace the motor itself for $135 off amazon if it was me. That plate isn't the easiest thing to get off to get at the gear. I will be doing the motor when I get over the flu on my wifes x5.

Also I would find another indy :)

?? - I can't find Ravenol TF-0870 on FCPEuro's site. Amazon has Ravenol for $36. I recently used Rock Oil's TF-0870 from Amazon (sold by Atlantic British) for $27, but I'd love to buy Ravenol for $20. Was it perhaps on a different site for that price?

AM.

I think he is saying just turn the gear in the actuator over to the part that's not ground down by the worm gear.

I dont mean to thread jack, but I have this same thing but with no abs light, I got the stored codes read at my indy he said the dsc is not getting any abs input. Could this be the same problem guys?

AFAIK... the gear problem will always throw the trifecta of traction control related lights. It did on mine.

I got the abs light once in the last 4 months and it went away after i restarted the car.

You need to find another Indy. The code that says the transfer case oil is "bad" doesn't say that at all. It is an indicator that it is time to change your TC oil. Then the code is reset and will not come again until it's time to change the oil again. The gear change is relatively easy to repair. Your Indy is trying to line his pockets.

Thank you for that info! I knew my indy's recommendation to change the whole Transfer Case was too ridiculous. I'll be buying a Transfer Case service kit and a liter of Shell TC fluid and do the repair myself one of these weekends.

Little off subject but jumped on here just to read this thread and I gotta say all of you that engage and provide this valuable information are just amazing!! Just wanted to say thanks to all of you that help us less knowledgeable people to save thousands of dollars!!

Even if you do have to change the tc, you can buy a used one on copart for like $600.

Our TCs are light. You can probably get a low mileage one on ebay for less than a grand, I would bet. Definitely not worth 3000 to put a new xfer case into nearly an E53 at this point.

So today I opened the TC actuator motor to see what the gear looked like before ordering parts and I found that its in relatively good condition. What are your guys' thoughts? I know I didn't take pictures along the gear itself because I didn't want to bombard you all with a ton of photos, but there wasn't any damage or much wear on the teeth like in the youtube videos from other DIYs.

Attached below are the pics of the black gear and the white gear as well. Looks like the white gear is starting to develop a crack so I was planning to purchase the whole Genuine BMW kit from ECS and replace the whole thing. Anybody know a reason why the three lights appeared and then went away?

There is enough black on your white gear to make me want to look at the gear it mates to - the one in the TC. Mine came out completely white after 165k miles.

The trifecta can come on for a sensor or a transient fault. I get them sometimes when a puddle or spot of ice makes one wheel slip, and it will reset after two minutes with the key out. Or there could be something wrong inside the tc.

Here are some pictures of the inner gear on the transfer case itself. My car has just over 126,000 miles.

That looks pretty clean. Mine didn’t have any grease or dirt on the white gear/spline, and the TC side of yours looks clean too. Certainly no visible damage.

There are much better mechanics/diagnosticians on this forum than I; Pending their replies, since you have a new actuator coming I would put that in and call it good, unless/until the trifecta returns and stays on.

Just FYI, this is what a stuffed gear looks like - you cannot see the wear if you look directly at the side profile of the gear (as in your pictures) - only when you view the gear from the edge.

The gear teeth should be flat in this view - like at the bottom of the gear. The wear is the curved hollow at the top.

https://usercontent1.hubstatic.com/8996716_f520.jpg

(image from Johnnyvest at axleaddict)

I'm not saying you missed this (I'm sure you didn't) - I'm just adding this to the thread for future readers. ;)

Yeah I was expecting to see my gear completely destroyed like in this picture and other pictures/videos from other affected cars, but when I took it out and cleaned the grease off, I was shocked to see my gear in good condition and with minimal wear so I'm confused why the computer tripped out like that.

I appreciate your reply and help though! Hopefully after changing the gears and fresh new fluid will help solve the trifecta issue for another 120k miles.

And I see you have a 2018 M5 in your signature......Great choice my friend that car is a BEAST!!! :thumbup:

Original Poster,

The computer calculates wheel rotations, so if they do not match, then Trifecta light.

- Most of the time the plastic gear is stripped from repeated activation of the xDrive on slippery surfaces such as rain or snow.

- Since you live in California, the plastic gear does not have much of a work-out.

- A rare possibility is your electric motor is kaput. I guess you can apply some battery current to the motor to see if it runs. Anyway, the new actuator should answer the question.

Classic reason is "low tire pressure".

Let's say the LF tire is 40 psi and the RF tire is 20 psi, you will get the Trifecta lights.
I learned it the hard way, don't ask LOL.

Amen brother! Yes...these forums are a huge help!!!! Has saved me thousands over the years with Volvos, Mercedes, BMW and Saabs I have owned. If you have a foreign car out of warranty, you'd be stupid to not get on a forum...unless you have money to burn..[emoji1]

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Xoutpost.com mobile app

Oh that makes a lot of sense now. And I wanted to test the motor but I was unsure which pins control/supply the power. Do you know which pins on the motor supply power so I can test it?

:iagree:

:thumbup:

Even the stealer had the scruples to tell me at least to attempt changing the oil. Some Indy's make the stealer look like saints.