Originally Posted by stiubhartach (Post 1158080)

While injectors can cause lean misfire, the ECM will usually adjust by advancing the timing to prevent detonation.

Your problems sound more likely to be ignition related than fuel.

Since you replaced the plugs and the coils, the most likely culprit is the unseating of the coils.

From the Bosch website. More at the link:

“With the newly-designed coil, the customary “snap” is no longer heard nor is it an indication that the coil has been properly installed. This new design does, however, provide better coil performance at the spark plug connection point, which was the area that concerned some technicians. In other words, the original design actually gripped the spark plug tip and felt more secure; whereas the new design uses a contact spring on the spark plug tip and this design may not feel like the connector is gripping the spark plug – but in reality it does the job just as well or better than the old design.”

https://www.boschautoparts.com/en/au...ignition-coils

Originally Posted by stiubhartach (Post 1158085)

I actually just did all eight of mine yesterday, and initially had misfires on 1,2, and 7. Had to reseat them.

Pull the coils on the affected cylinders, lubed the TOP rubber boot with light silicon spray (NOT the plug boot!). Reseat them, twisting and ensuring the top seal sets down fully against the head. Make sure they’re all the way seated before you plug-in the connector socket and flip down the hold down.

Clear the codes, then start the car. Check for cylinder misfire codes. Reseat any cylinders that are still misfiring. Repeat until it’s clean.

Note:
1. Don’t use dielectric grease. It causes the coils to lift.
2. Do use DeOxit on the connector contacts if you’re worried.
3. The plastic hold downs that bolt to the head don’t guarantee that the coil is seated.

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1158086)

I noticed the lack of snap when I did a couple coil swaps recently, but I did notice that the coil floated up a bit before tightened down combined with that the cylinder misfire disappeared. I would probably put some deoxit on future swaps nothing beats the stuff to improve connections

Originally Posted by stiubhartach (Post 1158118)

Don’t drive the car while it’s misfiring. It can damage to the engine over time.

You can grease the inside of part D or Where E would start. Not the shaft. It’s a sealing surface to keep water out of the spark plug well. Do it lightly, just to get it to slide down.

Don’t grease part A. They were using boot grease or dielectric grease. It causes problems and isn’t necessary with the new technology. (It’s good for old school cap and rotor systems. )

You’ll know when it’s all the way down and facing the right direction.

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1158119)

Are you getting any other codes? Or: have codes started to migrate to particular cylinder? If you get enough misfires on a cylinder the computer will shut off that cylinder and the car will have little power and shake like crazy.

Wife's car we as only tripping misfires a couple times a week and an hour or two of driving with the cleaner seems to have done the trick. Your symptoms are 3-4x as bad and you've driven not enough to even get the temp to equilibrium. That said, I also replaced the two coils from the cylinders that acted up the most. So keep reading codes and see if you can find a cylinder that misfires the most is likely a weak coil.

Also: take out the plugs and clean them if they are gummy.

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1158120)

Have to drive to work the injector cleaner through but at constant higher speed where it won't miss.