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If you have to pull twice the door was still locked. That suggests door lock actuator (DLA). I have a thread how to replace the motor for $6@ vs. $235@ for the assembly.
Here's a solid clue that wpoll reminded me: when the DHC is operating properly you can slowly pull up and at about 80% up the latch will engage and slow lifting will work. When broken you'll need to go to 100% of range and in it's last days you have to move quickly at the top of the range of motion. You may have a combination of both broken. |
Thanks, looked at your post and again good job on fixing it. As the car is 20 years old now I think I will just replace the whole actuator. Then I will take my time to repair the faulty one. Thanks for that. So, I will hold off purchasing the new carrier and get an actuator instead…lol.
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Actually, I will probably end up selling this vehicle before the new one goes bad again so I I might just bin the part.
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By the way, does anyone know how long I have before it completely fails and I can’t even use the inner handle or will the pull twice on the inner handle still work? thanks
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If the double lock motor fails you would need to remove the door card and manually disengage the double lock. Other than that the inner handle should work for years when the outer handle doesn't work.
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X5 E53 Door not opening due to actuator
That's good news!. Now I am looking at an original BMW replacement or a Dorman 937-857 Door Lock Actuator Motor. Anyone have any experience with Dorman which I believe is made in China.?
Also, I understand that there is a actuator kit that includes both the front right and left as I believe BMW realised the fault in these units. But I am not sure what the part no is. Will need to do a little research. As I am quite sure that if one is going then it will not be long before another one goes. Probably the passenger front as that gets used more than the rear ones. |
The electric lock runs either just the driver or all four doors at once.
Wife's e53 with auto lock when driving off 3 of 4 failed within a year of each other. Mine without auto lock only ever had one fail by 205,000 miles. Not a big fan of auto lock on the doors. They usually give you lots of warning usually by locking but not unlocking and some of the time. If it takes a couple tries to unlock the motor is EOL end of life. They usually soft fail so I don't bother preemptively replacing. The failure point is the brushes so they have just a certain amount of use like 30,000 actuations then they're kaput. There's a range on the MTBF so some will last longer. It's very satisfying to do the repair with as couple $6 motors though. |
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Here's my problems:
So I'm guessing both DLAs have bad motors. I bought replacements from amazon and will do AW's fix over the winter break using some spare DLAs from the junkyard, after I test them first. |
Thanks Salty, there appears to be more good reviews than bad. So, that is hopeful but hoping someone on here might have experience with this brand Dorman.
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Dorman is a very famous knock off brand and write often the only "in stock" option. In general they are ok copies but you can expect a higher failure rate than the original and a likely lack of precision that can make install difficult.
Examples: 1) DHC: the return spring was too long it scraped on the window glass hard to grind it down with angle grinder 2) coolant reservoir; the lower fitting was over sized I had to use my entire body weight and plenty of cussing to get on installed 3) DHC; the cables are not shaped so they don't fit nicely. I move over the OG cables. That said dorman has got me back on the road at least a dozen times and I don't recall an example of outright failure. |
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