swapping N62 motors
 

I am in the process of taking the trashed motor out of my 04 E53 with 4.4. I have just purchased a used motor that came out of an 05 745. I know I will have to change over the oil pan to accommodate the front axles etc. What I see different now is the 05 motor as the EGR vacuum modules on the back of each head. The 04 does not have these. Also the 05 didn't have the oil cooler lines. But I think that may be a case of just swapping the alternator bracket. Has anyone had experience using a sedan motor in our trucks? I did it on my 01 and just used a 740 motor and swapped over the necessary parts. Hoping this will be the same. Any help appreciated.

The good news is that Sedan or X i believe the 4.4i is the same block. With regard to the oil pan, alternator bracket/oil cooler lines and covers you should be fine, but I'm not sure what you'll do with the egr modules?? - Swap heads, that would kind of suck...

'Fade, Thanks for the reply. Until I actually pull the original motor, won't know for sure, but thinking I may just block off the 05 spot where the EGR's are. I can feel the protrusion on the 04 head where the gases go, but no outlet for it. Trying to figure out how the 04 deals with EGR situation.
QUOTE=Purplefade;1162540]The good news is that Sedan or X i believe the 4.4i is the same block. With regard to the oil pan, alternator bracket/oil cooler lines and covers you should be fine, but I'm not sure what you'll do with the egr modules?? - Swap heads, that would kind of suck...[/QUOTE]

I looked into this a while back when I had to swap the engine in my e70 that I hydrolocked while stupidly going through some water....

Here is the thread that had the most info: https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...-swap-question

The exhaust manifold bolt pattern is different on the heads (but there is a undrilled boss there) so you will have to drill/tap the head for that.

Be careful with the oil pump, the pan is different so you have to change that but I believe that the pump is also a different part number. The oil pumps also cost something ridiculous like $850 new.

I ended up finding a 70k e70 4.8i which was a direct swap and I didn't have to play around with the oil pumps.

I do have the oil pump and pan that were still good from my original 115k hydrolocked engine. I still need to sell them along with the heads if you need to build it up before doing the swap. Strangely my engine just took out the timing chain guides when it slammed to a stop and didn't bend a rod or take out a bearing so most of the parts are still good (zero metal in the oil, etc).

-Rich

Attachment 76144So as to not pass along false info, what Rbryant has posted is incorrect at least in my case and my scenario. The exhaust manifolds bolt up perfectly. Will just have to deal with the EGR valves and the rest should be good to go. Started to disassemble things tonight. Sent FCP $500 for misc seals/orings/gaskets and will hopefully be putting the "new" motor together this weekend and maybe install next week. Will keep this thread going and updated.

Thats pretty strange. According to realoem, they do not bolt up, as others have reported. On the N62 4.4i the manifold port (from the top) points, 'right left right left'. On the 745/750, the ports point, 'left right left left'. Have a look...

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_3588

For a 4.8is the setup is also different. It is 'right left right right'.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_3608

You included the gasket for the coolant cover at the back of the engine where it mates to the transmission, yes?

gasket
 

YES!! Don't want to do this huge job again! Thanks for reply!

That is also what I have seen. I guess the N6244 was the same between the cars and the trucks where the N6248 isn't.

Either way, the good information is that there are several exhaust manifolds and bolt patterns in the N62 family and they sometimes require drilling and tapping if you mix and match.

I was expecting only one side to be different between the e70 X5 and the engines I looked at from an E65 750i. Which is also different than the 4.8is. It probably all just comes down to how the exhaust manifolds fit best.

Did you happen to look into swapping an N62B48 engine for the extra 40hp/40ft*lbs instead of putting another 4.4l engine in? Would it take more than just changing the control module?

-Rich

As I mentioned in my previous post the 4.4i manifolds between the cars & trucks are not the same. In fact, the bolt patterns are completely opposite between the 745 & the X5 4.4i N62.

In regards to the 4.8, I’d have also swapped if one were to be going through all this trouble. Transmission (torque converter) is also a different unit.

OK, I spoke to soon.....Damn!! Weird part is the drivers side of the engine manifold fits fine. I just tried the passenger side and just as you all said, completely opposite bolt pattern! I assumed since the one side was fine, the other would be as well. Looks like I have decision to make. Think I will just set up a jig and drill and tap the head. I should have held out for a E53 motor. This motor has 120K miles on it and was $1K. Wondering if I should just try to sell it and but the correct one. Pondering......

This truck is just going to be a daily driver, so don't want to get involved in the hassles of changing this and that to get a little extra juice. Trying to keep it simple...

"Told you so..." :nanana:

Hehe well now we know it is both the 4.8is and 4.4 that have the different manifolds on an e53 compared to the cars.

-Rich

So, after thinking about this, I am going to make a jig to place on the existing studs of the head and use the old X5 exhaust manifold as a template. Than use the jig to drill through. But, need to figure out how to exactly match the x5 manifold to the cylinder head so it is located perfectly and that I don't get any leaks once I connect to the exhaust system. Thoughts anyone?

swapping N62 motors
 

I would just bolt the manifold to the head apply a liberal amount of lubrication and use the manifold as the jig. Aluminum of the block will drill much easier than the manifold, if it lines up well and centered shouldn’t damage the manifold at all. - Be sure to center punch the head so your bit doesn’t wonder [emoji106]

Dykem (sp?) steel blue

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

+1

I agree, the manifold will work fine as a jig. Bits tend to drill pretty perpendicular. Getting the threads square with a tap is harder than the drilling. You might want to get a special tap that can thread the hole all the way to the end as opposed to a regular tap that is really made for putting holes through flat plates where the hole is drilled all the way through the material:

Something like a: Thread Forming Tap (Tru-Flo™) is likely better for this job.

https://www.natool.com/engineering-data/tap-style-guide


I would also add a drill stop to your bit so that you don't drill deeper than stock. If you were to drill too deep.

I don't know what you would hit if you drilled too deep but it is better to not have to figure it out.

Something simple like these from amazon will work fine:

https://www.amazon.com/Piece-Adjusta...15682791&psc=1

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....bL._SX679_.jpg



-Rich

Thank you Rich. Good advice. I am just trying to make sure that the manifold is exactly where it needs to be on the head. Need to pull the existing studs. Than, take a straight edge, using the old stud holes as alignment, to mark the new drill holes. Going to just take my time and measure 100 times before drilling. Will take pics and post them up for others down the road.

So... how did this end up working out lol