Jammed shut now what? Window
 

Front driver window is jammed shut and won't go down? I am not sure if I need a new motor,regulator or switch panel. The other windows all work properly. If I replace the reg/motor system how do I get it out without being able to let the window down? Do I just cut the cables system to release the window down? Then have to jam it up to install the new gear? What are the real chances it's just the switch and not the motor? It is an original 01 after all.
Thanks for your knowledge..:dunno:

Almost always the controller board. You can try to use the key to roll down all windows to test if it's the physical switch. Find my repair how-to. Usually just need a wire jumper to fix the problem.


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You're right. At one time the key fob rolled all the windows down including open sunroof. But then, the driver window would go down intermittently. Then sometimes, only about a 1/3rd with key or switch and then, not at all. Where is your link to fix? Thank you so much. The key fob can still open all the other windows n roof.

Search by my username andrewwynn and window switch. I didn't make an official AWR-fix thread just in somebody else's thread I think. I have photos exactly where to solder a jumper it's a common problem.


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If you haven’t gotten the window down yet I believe you can simply unplug the window motor and apply 12v to the window motor plug. One way will try to roll it up and one way will roll it down. If memory serves I think my window motors were green & brown wires - I think power to green and ground to brown is up - power to brown and ground to green is down, either way, you’ll figure it out once your in there.

Unplugging the window motor and powering it directly bypasses the switch and should roll the window up/down, assuming there isn’t also a window motor issue.

Good luck [emoji106]

What he said: you could apply power directly to the motor. You can do a little research to know which pins you can do without taking the door apart the switch controller pulls right out.

Open that up and look for corrosion under the relay and you'll know that's the problem also


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This is great to know. Someone on Utube posted an interesting diagnostic idea. It seem to work. He explained that when applying the switch to engage the motor it applies load to the circuit. He tested the switch using the overhead lamp, if the switch was working the light would dim slightly. It worked, kind of. In the up position all the windows exhibited a slight dimming including the driver window. But when the driver window was engaged in down position I didn't see a slight dimming. So I deduce that the switch is probably good and I should move forward with a new regulator / motor combo replacement, plus the plastic junk for about $50. DIY. Does this sound right? BTW, this regulator was replaced about eight-years ago or so. It had the classic BMW fallen window syndrome.

Try the 12v power directly to the motor first. That’ll show you exactly what you need to fix.

Because the X5 has so many complicated systems, it’s important you accurately diagnose the issue before throwing money into parts. That’s a deep hole that’s almost unending and very expensive.

Regulator not related to window doesn't move. You don't need to take the door apart to confirm the switch is corroded it will be quite apparent.

You can determine which pins go to the motor and likewise apply 12v to make it move.

It's at least 10:1 odds that the switch ckt is at fault I've not seen a case with your symptoms that wasn't the problem.


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When attaching a 12Volt line to the motor plug does it matter which prong I attach it to? I am not very informed on this electrical stuff. What do I attach the ground line to? I have to use the 12volt power from the jump point under the hood, it's all I have. Is that OK? I can see two wires going to the motor from below the switch box in the door handle. Ready to give this a try and diagnose properly. Thanks so much.