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Thanks for the feedback so far.:bow:
I lifted the hand brake boot and the entire car stunk to high heaven. Pulled the center console out using this. It was pretty filthy under there.. Found wires to the hazard and door lock chewed up pretty badly. One wire on the trans selector also. Easy fix. Scrubbed the carpet - dug my jug of OdoBan out and it had about 2" left in it. Mixed up 25% solution in a spray bottle. Found a nest and a couple cups of dog food in the duct that goes to the back seat. Nice for distributing odors. The mice used the channels under the carpet to get to the back. Under the rear seat on each side there were a lot of droppings. Next is pulling the front seats and the rear carpet. I'm considering going forward into the blower and ducting also after what I found in the rear seat duct. Want to make sure I eradicate this. Who would have thunk. 2 days into owning a car, I've torn the interior halfway out already (rear, center console, back seat). The parking brake cables make noise that I can hear when I operate the lever and they are drawn back in when I release the lever, so the cables may be intact. When the lever is down, there is about a 2mm of play at the end of the cables. Maybe they just need to be tightened, I'm wondering if someone went for a drive with the brake set. Will pull the rotors after I'm done cleaning but before I install the center console - will make running the cables easier if that's the case. Quote:
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Might there be some way parking sensors when there is a bike rack installed? I don't notice a difference. It just beeps when I go into reverse and the light flashes on the switch. Even with nothing in the hitch and nothing behind me. Quote:
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The new key ships already programmed to your existing EWS - the only programming the dealer would do is the sync the key for the lock\unlock function - and you can do that yourself - no tools etc. The programming of an after-market key is certainly possible but involves too much work that can permanently damage your EWS. It's not a route I would take just to save money (and not much at that) but I would certainly use it to get a non-running car back to running condition again! ;) |
FYI, Be prepared to deal with nightmares diving into BMW software. I have been trying to figure it out for a couple of years. Recently bought an A4 and bought VAGCOM. BMW should be so lucky to have that kind of software! So much easier and intuitive.
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I used to use this for price comparisons but over time I got to only comparing prices at ECS Tuning and FCP and go with the best price OE or OEM parts: Furiousmethod.com - BMW Parts Price Comparison. For other than coding this is the Foxwell scanner is a good option: https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/scanners/. I have the BMW software and never use it. IMO it is very cumbersome and not intuitive compared to how easy the Foxwell scanner is to use.
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But the BMW software does do a few things that other "scanners" cannot and for some of us it's fine for general use (at service intervals etc.). Steep learning curve though -sheesh! Getting DIS running is more a "black art" than a science.... :rolleyes: |
Had some SAR training night. Then visited a friend in the hospital last night and tonight. So didn't get any more teardown done.
Seems the Bavarian Technic software offers less than the Schwaben scan tool (a repackaged Foxwell). BMW and Mini Cooper Model Feature Matrix for the Bavarian Technic Diagnostic tool vs. http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...ction_List.pdf Reading a little, sounds like the window regulators are a common failure point. Will be pulling a door apart to see what they look like. I don't mind fabricating up a mod to make things work better, otherwise, dropping cash on 2 window regulators. I've read about this VANOS - Variable Valve Timing - there is a common issue here of some sort? I'm not sure which version this 6cyl has but i\I suppose I'll figure it out. DannyPIV in bimmerforums wrote that the E53 bushings are a problem. Which bushings might those be? |
Many bushings wear out on the e53 but commonly the front thrust arm bushings and in the back the subframe bushings. Either will net you some clunking as the suspension shifts under load change.
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