BMW X5 E53 4.4 EU version help needed with Engine failsafe (Motornotprogramm)
 

Hi all,

as the title says, after spending a nice amount of money on replacing the valve covers gaskets (leaky) + other various bits (back end suspension + coil connectors, some coolant hoses) I know have a random Motornotprogramm error

I found a broken vacuum line (now fixed) but that wasn't it.
As my brother drove the car initially after the gasket repair and the problem happened after he went through some water (not too big according to him), 1000 km after im still getting it randomly, although still drivable. Initially it was not, car went off at every stop, now a lot better but still...

One time it starts and goes off right after, next its driving normal, but mainly i have a bit of delay in the cars response when driving at low speeds. Almost feels sluggish when i tap the gas, a sec later it rockets as if I've pressed it halfway. Sometimes the rpm is steady sometimes not. Im totally lost now..

I can't find anything related to that error, any advice/tips where to look at are very much appreciated.

Inpa shows :

Variant: ME72KWP1 1 Error in error memory Error registration 1 : 0x0087: DK-controller Error to Amplifiers adjustment <<<<!!! Error accurances: 1 Logistic counter : 40
Error accure 1st time at:
Supply voltage 11.96 V Intake air temperature 33.00 Grd C voltage DK-Potentiometer 1 0.80 V udkp1a_u 0.72 V
Error currently available Error tested -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- DK-controller Amplifier adjustment faulty current, -- -- -- DK-controller Amplifier adjustment faulty Initial, E-Flag debounce CARB debounce

2.:

Error registration 2 : 0x0087: DK-controller Error to Amplifiers adjustment <<<<!!! Error accurances: 3 Logistic counter : 40
Error accure 1st time at:
Supply voltage 12.15 V Intake air temperature 44.25 Grd C voltage DK-Potentiometer 1 0.82 V udkp1a_u 0.74 V
Error accure 2nd time at:
Supply voltage 12.15 V Intake air temperature 46.50 Grd C voltage DK-Potentiometer 1 0.82 V udkp1a_u 0.74 V
Error accure last time at::
Supply voltage 12.15 V Intake air temperature 54.00 Grd C voltage DK-Potentiometer 1 0.80 V udkp1a_u 0.72 V
Error currently available Error tested -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- DK-controller Amplifier adjustment faulty current, -- -- -- DK-controller Amplifier adjustment faulty Initial, E-Flag debounce CARB debounce -- -- -- Fault sporadic

Thanks in advance and BR

Looks like a voltage problem. Either the voltage regulator on the alternator or the voltage supply in the ebox I forget the name of it I don't have one on the 3.0.

Get voltage display real-time on the dash hidden menu and see if your voltage is stable like 13.2-13.8 and never outside that. If you get dips into 12v range especially when you coast towards a stop most likey your VR is shot

The IVM (Integrated Voltage Module), Andrew? I think they are only in the 4.8iS car but maybe the 4.4i has the IVM also... will check...

I helped change one on 4.4


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Yeah, looks like the IVM is only in the cars with the N62 V8 (4.4i and 4.8iS).

It was an N62. I just remember when my M54 was having problems that seemed similar, it was suggested I replace it but M54 doesn't have one.

Hi all,

thanks for all the tips. Could someone point me to where the IVM is located? I recon it is the E-Box, however I can't seem to find it at realoem

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/par...W-X5_44i&mg=61

Mine is 2001 year, is there a possibility that it doesn't have it?

BR

No IVM on the 2001......

I stumbled upon this thread :
Timm's BMW M62 and M62TU Engine Failsafe problems on E38 and E39

might be the next on the check list

Whats weirder is - after I plug in the laptop to read the car Im getting mottornotprogramm error. Laptop disconnected, ignition off, then back on no error :dunno:

No luck diagnosing leaks with inpa
Attachment 76367
Attachment 76368

I got the motornotprogramm again after pluging in the car to the laptop, really this car is something

Error deleted, restarted and tested the voltage with test Nr 9

when I tap the gas and rpm return to ~600 voltage drops to 12.4ish (open door, lights on, stereo(android) on, then at idle hops back on to 13.5V
With headlights on it dropped a lil more like 12.1-3V

Im baffled, what should I look at, VR, alternator, Battery? Never had issues
with the battery until now

I should've mentioned car is with LPG (off during tests and last couple of days) if it matters.


Can this voltage drop indicate something else ? RPM is unstable only when tapping the gas and they drop down to like 100-150 below normal, which is causing the initial error with the potentiometer I assume

Thanks in advance

If you are getting into 12v while running, you have a problem. Start at the alternator and see if you have a separate voltage regulator.

First indication is voltage regulator or slip rings. Is your alternator oily? Second indication is a bad ground. Check the ground by measuring the voltage drop from frame to block it should never be more than. 0.3v. (except maybe during start).

DME sockets checked, no visible issue, alternator also no visible issues

I will be replacing the battery today and am hoping this will solve it, although its never that easy with this car.

Will post results when ready

BR

Hi,

Voltage drop from frame to block is around 0.5v, or so the repair guy shop said.

All ground cables around it were rechecked and tightened, issue with the voltage drop is still there :dunno:

Should I go on with an alternator repair - i.e. voltage reg replacement?
I found a repair kit on ebay, Part Brand: LActrical, does anyone have any experience with them - are they reliable?

I can't find the bosch one anywhere.

Can it really be the voltage regulator that causes all this, or am I at a dead end

Any advise is again much appreciated. Truck is for the third week in the shop now,I'm getting desperate that they wont be able to find the problem :(:(:(

BR

BMW X5 E53 4.4 EU version help needed with Engine failsafe (Motornotprogramm)
 

1/2v drop on the ground strap seems excessive other than at start but if the voltage ever drops below 13 that's a sure sign of VR failure.

Confirm by measuring the voltage from B+ terminal to the engine block. If you get similar drops in voltage than the alternator is the fault.

When mine died it was the slip ring/ brushes and I replaced them with a &20 kit. Other than bearings those are the only parts that really ever wear. The stator windings are locked in enamel and can easily last a million miles.

Measure the ground strap voltage at start and confirm the 0.5v was just normal running. I found my problem before I got that far didn't need to test my ground strap so don't have a baseline. Within the past year somebody on xo had a loser ground strap causing his similar problems

Hi all,

long story short, after replacing the battery with a new one and retightening all grounds around the block car runs fine. Reseted adaptations as well, first time not the right way (car was running), second time the right way with the gas pedal all the way down for 31 seconds and key at pos 2.

1000km now and no issues with the rpm. Read the voltage with inpa, they still drop below 13, but only briefly.

Thanks all for the help. No I have to fight only the servotronic, after the summer tire change (from 18 to 19) my steering is crap, parking is a pita without it. Its a never ending story with this car.

BR
Dimitar

Sorry, but pressing the gas pedal doesn't reset anything - that's an urban myth....

And if you see your alternator voltage drop below 13v at any time, your alternator is possibly on the way out. The new battery won't last long... :(

Like you said - it never ends. :confused:

I don't know really. Before the gas pedal reset the car didnt even wanna start. After that it fired up right away. Dunno what we did, all seems fine, for the past 10 days. The old battery went in another car after sitting for 10 days in my boot. Fired up without any issues, was an audi a6 3.0 diesel, which leads me to believe the old battery was also fine

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