X5 E53 Air Conditioning - all systems go but no cold air
 

I have a 2004 BMW X5 E53 with no cold air when A/C is turned on.

1. I have had the system vacuumed and refilled
result: a hint of cold for a few minutes but then just ambient 80 degree air

2. ODBII - no faults

3. Compressor clutch engages and condenser fan works

4. Low pressure line was high on 1st canned R134a gauge check

Question: how would I determine if the issue is the Expansion Valve?


*NOTE: I have not tested with PSI hi/lo gauges yet

Unfortunately the only way to diagnose is with high pressure and low pressure. You need to learn is the compressor doing anything. Is I working weakly etc.


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Get the system pressure tested and provide the info. After that we can tell you what is wrong with your system. Right now it just a Wild Ass Guess (WAG) on everyone part as to what could be wrong.

2004 BMW X5 E53 A/C only warm air W/O WAG ;)
 

ok, Thank you all

I just took the readings below ..
IMHO..
1. Looks like the compressor is not doing anything ?
2. LOW and LOW = MAYBE low refrigerant still?
3. Maybe the EXPANSION VALVE is stuck?

:dunno:
@ My 71 Degrees F - My R-134a Temp Chart shows these numbers

1_Engine Off { Low = 30 High = 31 }
3_AC ON Compressor ON { Low = 37 High =37 }

0
Attachment 76372
1
Attachment 76373
2 - Here I set it to 67 AUTO but I'd had it at MAX for a few minutes as well
Attachment 76374
3
Attachment 76375


Thank you again and in advance for your support and care here

Do you have the variable displacement compressor? With the engine off the charge appears to be low. With the compressor running, the low side shouldn't be higher than the static pressure with the engine off. Something is not right.

You said the ac clutch kicked on?

When was the last time was working?

The pressure switch was unplugged on my car and made impossible to charge. Do you have scanner able to read the switch level and activate the ac clutch?

If pres switch fails open you can't charge.

It the clutch engages and no pressure usually the problem is in the clutch and often repairable.


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I just bought the car 1 week ago.. The owner told me that he never used it but did not think it worked.

The Low side Pressure switch seems to work (electrically) when I unplug it :
1. Condenser Fan kicks ON
2. Clutch on Compressor disengages (OFF)
*Not sure when you say 'switch fails open'. My assertion without probing is that the switch (pressure) will close when enough pressure is in the low pressure line. Please advise if I am wrongly thinking here.

-Also - you got me wondering what is the flow when charging? Does it flow back through the compressor or back through the evaporator or am I thinking to hard on this track :confused:

-again - I do appreciate all of your support here.

humm good question:

I am not from down under and here is my part number:
64526918000
Air-conditioner compressor


When I looked at the unit it doesn't appear to have a control input that a variable would require but I am not 100%. When I went off reading about variable compressors it looks the control is internal ??:dunno:

Also I went to aircondition.com and found this ..

"How can I tell if the expansion valve is bad?
This has to be our least favorite item to diagnose. We've had expansion valves quit working while on the road and show no signs of problem back in the shop. What's worse, an expansion valve can stick closed, stick open, or hang somehwere in between.

Of all the bad expansion valves seen over the years, I think those that stick closed are most common. Those are the easy ones. Gauges will show very low suction side pressure along with lower than normal high side pressure. The low side may even draw into a vacuum. That's a big clue. Those that appear to be stuck closed may have inlet screens clogged with ground up desiccant particles. This will look like beach sand packed into the inlet.

It's common for a defective expansion valve to stick closed, however, the expansion valve can also stick open. This is indicated by higher than normal low side pressure, and slightly higher than normal high side pressure. To some, this might appear as a weak compressor or slightly overcharged system."

So with compressor engaged and you inroduce freon to the low port does draw any in?

If the compressor is working the low side should drop dramatically when it kicks on. Initially this can actually cut off the compressor If the low side switch opens.

The low switch is not failed open if the fan kicks on when the plug is pulled.

Feels like the compressor clutch is not grabbing. There is a repair process for that issue. The solinoid is kicking on but not pushing the clutch hard enough to spin the compressor.


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So .. I received a comment with regards to me possibly having a variable compressor.. do you know how I can confirm or deny this based upon my P/N ?

If not then am I simply dealing with a weak or broken coil (for some reason I thought I saw a schematic with two coils for pulling in the clutch) ...


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