What the heck is this noise?
 

Hey people,

This noise (ticking) I have been trying to figure out for a while (attached the video) which seems to be coming from the driver's side of the engine. I thought it was coming from the top of the engine but it's as loud towards the bottom.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWK_...ature=youtu.be

I have replaced that side of the lifters. Also, replaced spark plugs, checked out coils. I have even replaced the injectors since I thought the noise was coming from there after I listened with a stethoscope.

The noise does not start immediately after a cold start but it seems to become very obvious after the secondary air pump stops working. Would it have something to do with that? (I do get a secondary air injection error very frequently) Also, it subsides after I rev up the engine.

I have visited my old mechanic and he said that it was probably rod knocking / rod bearing. I listened to many rod knocking sounds and what I hear does not match any of them I heard.

Any opinion / help will be greatly appreciated..

Thanks,

Ozzie

To eliminate if it is from a rod knock, you can disable the cylinder so that it is not producing any power. If the knock goes away you just found which cylinder has the rod knock. This test is just to determine if you have a rod knock. Do not drive around with the cylinder disable.

Is it safe to unplug a coil and start the engine and run it briefly?


Thanks,


Ozzie

Yep, or can you have the engine running and unplug each coil connector. Do not pull the coil off the plug.

Thanks, I am also reading this noise may have something to do with the secondary air ports getting clogged because the ticking starts happening after the secondary air pump stops working..


Any opinion?


Thanks,


Ozzie

How full is oil and what grade? I would do the tests cylinder by cylinder to determine if one is at fault.

I suspect not enough lubrication backed by the revs clear it (more rpm more oil pressure). Also coincidentally the thicker cold oil stays in channels with less pressure. Does your oil light go off quickly at start (I have 3.0 but if it takes more than 6 sec. to clear the oil light I'm very low on oil.


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Oil is Castrol 5W40 (ll01) and just filled it up. There is no oil light staying at startup. There used to be until I fixed the valve issue inside the oil filter housing.



I will do the cylinder testing tomorrow probably..


Thanks,


Ozzie

So I unplugged each coil to see if the ticking would go away. It is still there. Does that eliminate the rod knock problem completely or would there be still a rod bearing issue?


I am planning on taking the pan down today to take a look..


Thanks,


Ozzie

Is there a way with OBC to read oil pressure. I suspect a oil delivery issue. You may see telltale with the oil pan off. (something you can reasonably do on the 8: have to remove the CV axles on mine).

Also: when you re-attach the stiffening plate be advised they are held on with single used torque to yield bolts. You can reuse them sensibly if you use half the torque angle. Preload to 60 N·m then turn 45° vs 90°. In testing they fail after about 3-4 full tightening processes.

I have yet to work out the exact values partly because I'm upgrading to larger bolts that achieve the same grip at normal torque (unlimited re use). But as I retire my old bolts I plan to do more destructive testing to make some determination on a decent compromise between throwing out $120 worth of bolts and throwing out the function of the aluminum plate (stiffening the entire body of the car)

You still can't see easily the crank on the V8 - while the pan is split (upper and lower) the upper pan is mostly similar to the pan on th I6 in that it blocks access to the bottom end and has the front axle running thought it....

But you can easily pull the lower pan to check for debris, foreign objects etc.