Absolutely correct. I only use a slide hammer to remove parts where I'm already planning to replace the ball joint or bearing affected. Slow force much better.

I think more likely the RACE that gets damaged from the Impact. The ball is far harder and far less surface area. A big bang will press the balls into the race making nice little dents. Once dented it will usually wear pretty quickly.


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Andrew, you speak of pump replacement motor , not the unit. It is sold that way? I seem to only find the entire unit with the extension float. What not replace it all? Is it easy to replace just the motor when the unit is out? My wheel bearings are fine, I don't hear any aircraft whine. BUT, my new conundrum is missing coolant. This happens every few months. The other day I check the o.f bottle and it's empty. Fill it, and for the past three days it's fine. I am wondering, can extensive high RPM driving suck a small amount of coolant into combustion chambers given the high mileage(250K)? I can't seem to find any coolant leaking on the ground. During normal driving n high RPM temp range is perfect. I also look n listen under the hood as soon as I stop driving after reaching normal temp. I am confounded by this one. NO codes either.

A slow coolant leak will evaporate before it drips. Add some UV dye to track slow leaks. They are usually from one of the dozen or so o-rings.

Wife's X is leaking coolant slowly I need to add a pint every couple weeks.

I recently found a drip hanging from one of the hoses on the bottom of the coolant reservoir tank.


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You can buy just the pump. I think I bought mine on Amazon. I couldn't find pierburg so I bought a Bosch. They said it's a new design. With improvements for reliability.

The oe pump lasted about 130,000 miles works out to about 26 mph average with 5000 hours which is very reasonable napkin math.

The pump usually comes with the hose clamps needed and I think the connections for power are push on.

Long drive means fully pressurized coolant system for long periods. This means any minor leak will be doing it's job and with engine hot and lots of wind the leak is more likely to evaporate

Might also check down by the heat exchanger from the transmission for small water leaks too.

Updated with pic of leak residue.

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On first gen E53 possible just remove the front half shafts or front drive shaft and you will have 2wd, my buddy have done that several times on his X5 3.0d with no issues. :dunno:

What about Transfer case?
 

That's what I thought. But what did he do with the front diff? Front drive shaft and the transfer case? Could be another way to extend life of the X if the front craps out. I guess.

Just removed like I wrote above and havent done anything with diff.

Wouldn’t that result a 38% power loss?