That reminds me.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/081P...zA#Chicago,_IL

I've always wondered if I can stop the fan with my fingers I've always used a piece of foam or rolled up paper etc.

I took it to AutoZone. The clerk found the testing code, but when he put it into the DuraTest (?) machine, it said that test wasn't supported. He suggested I go to O'Reilly's down the street. When I talked to the clerk there, he said he couldn't do the test without the plastic shield with the connector on it. He was happy to sell me a remanufactured alternator, which he could get by tomorrow, for $280 + tax. Lifetime warranty. No thanks!

Thanks. Just the one big fan as far as I know.

Don't think I'll be trying that!

I'll point out a couple things:

1) I'm far crazier than average
2) I juggle fire, broken glass, radial saw blades
3) engine was cool so the clutch wasn't engaged
4) I tested with something else first.

It hurt less than a high/five. Seriously, but I've done similar before hundreds of times including petting plastic house fan still under power. It's very important to come in from the back side (that's what she said).

[emoji1787]
Why do I get the feeling that someone found their Christmas Bourbon?

No pressure, but do you have an empty Listerine bottle and my address?

Sent from my SM-A730F using Tapatalk

Got the connector off, finally!

Today's novice question: Is there a way to check continuity between the gold contact on the plug and the wrapped gray wire in the second picture, without stripping off some of the wire covering?

I looked to see if I could find the other end of the gray wire. Getting the cover off where it is on the top of the engine has proven unsuccessful so far. The plastic tabs are brittle and some are against a metal rail which makes them tough to release.

You can stab a pin through the wire's insulation to do a continuity test. Leaves a tiny pin-hole that won't need insulating.

Or... measure to pin #19 on the main DME connector - X60003. This is where that grey wire runs to. It also runs down to the oil quality sensor but the DME is easier to get at.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...4i-sav/sq82UoS

Thanks for the tips, wpoll.

I was able to get continuity from four of the eight pins on pins in the receptacle on the picture below (upper left & right, middle center, left bottom). All the red wires... does that make sense?

Oddly, the gray connector on the wire, which corresponds to lower right on the receptacle, doesn't have continuity.

This page, linked from the one you gave me shows that it's a two-pin (which the plug has, but there's only one wire and one pin on the receptacle end).

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...4i-sav/Uvkk0p0

I'm pretty sure my alternator has two wires going to the two conductor plug.

I'm pretty sure there's only one for mine. There's only one gold connector on the plug in my post #76.

The post with pictures I linked to on bimmerfest, #8, only shows one wire as well. (645i N62).

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=966587