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-   -   What to fix first? (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/111042-what-fix-first.html)

CoughinCamel 11-11-2019 07:23 PM

What to fix first?
 
Hey guys new to the forum and new to the x5 (well new to any bmw really). I knew it had some issues to start with and this forum helped me decide I could handle them.
I just picked up an 05 e53 4.4i with the 6sp AT about a month ago.

It came standard with the excessive camber in the rear and a bit of a funny idle. (It hovers at 600rpm but stumbles like its going to die but picks right back up.)

Its starting to do the hard shifts from 2-1 and 1-2. (Will have the fluids flushed and seals replaced soon)
Theres a whine coming from the rear as well. (Unsure of where its coming from. Hoping its the worn tire and not the diff.)

Theres a popping(?) sound coming from the front under hard acceleration from a stop but its rare. (Fearing thats splines or TC chains.)

Every so often the 4x4 triangle comes on and stays on, not the trifecta. (I just stop and go full lock both ways twice then shut it down, makes the light go away)

Under hard braking at slow speed there's a shudder(?) In the front suspension or wheels, I can't feel it in the pedal though, so I don't think it's ABS.

So the big question is what do I prioritize first. Cost isnt a big issue as I'll be doing the work myself but could only afford one big repair a month.

Emory39 11-11-2019 08:42 PM

Transmission first, then once in the air check for suspension issues

audiophool 11-11-2019 09:32 PM

Do you have an OBD scanner? One with BMW code diagnostics like Foxwell 510 will pay for itself. 4x4 light may well be the SAS (steering angle sensor) on its last legs. Check what I did to fix mine: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...r-fix-0-a.html


Rear camber is usually the rose joints in the lower arm. To check, you need to unload the rear spring - easy with air springs, not so easy with steel coils.


Shudder during stopping is probably the tension arm bushings.


Do you know how old the water pump, thermostat and main coolant hoses are? Usually a good idea to replace these along with the expansion tank as a preventive measure.



Get 'er up in the air and check for loose stuff. And have fun.

myeaglescout 11-11-2019 10:33 PM

even though I'm old school and would much prefer the nuts and bolts of mechanics, these are so dependent on the electronics, I'd focus on getting that squared away making your first "large" repair simply buying a BMW scan tool. For starters, you have the traction issue and a "funny idle" already. Even if you have a scan tool for live data already, a dedicated BMW scan tool is going to be a must. The live data will help you see what's going on better than you'd imagine. There are sensors all over the place, and that type of scan tool takes full advantage of them where a generic one does not.

CoughinCamel 11-12-2019 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by audiophool (Post 1171408)
Do you have an OBD scanner? One with BMW code diagnostics like Foxwell 510 will pay for itself. 4x4 light may well be the SAS (steering angle sensor) on its last legs. Check what I did to fix mine: https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...r-fix-0-a.html


Rear camber is usually the rose joints in the lower arm. To check, you need to unload the rear spring - easy with air springs, not so easy with steel coils.


Shudder during stopping is probably the tension arm bushings.


Do you know how old the water pump, thermostat and main coolant hoses are? Usually a good idea to replace these along with the expansion tank as a preventive measure.



Get 'er up in the air and check for loose stuff. And have fun.


A bmw code scanner is top of the list of parts to pick up, thanks for the recommendation on the Foxwell.

I have the airbags but no controls for them. I have to lift the truck then apply some jack pressure to the wheel and wiggle it in and out right?

I dont know about the water pump, hoses or expansion chamber. But so far all that seems fine.

Thanks so much for the input, I love this forum just as much as VWVortex.

CoughinCamel 11-12-2019 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myeaglescout (Post 1171409)
even though I'm old school and would much prefer the nuts and bolts of mechanics, these are so dependent on the electronics, I'd focus on getting that squared away making your first "large" repair simply buying a BMW scan tool. For starters, you have the traction issue and a "funny idle" already. Even if you have a scan tool for live data already, a dedicated BMW scan tool is going to be a must. The live data will help you see what's going on better than you'd imagine. There are sensors all over the place, and that type of scan tool takes full advantage of them where a generic one does not.

I was raised the same way, screw adjustments and good old feeling haha but I agree, I'm going to be picking up a scan tool or maybe the INPA software. Any recommendations on obd2 to USB for bmw?

I forgot to post that the service engine soon light popped when the funny idle started which this forum says is most likely my O2 sensors are bad.

I much appreciate your input on this!

audiophool 11-12-2019 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CoughinCamel (Post 1171412)
A bmw code scanner is top of the list of parts to pick up, thanks for the recommendation on the Foxwell.

I have the airbags but no controls for them. I have to lift the truck then apply some jack pressure to the wheel and wiggle it in and out right?

I dont know about the water pump, hoses or expansion chamber. But so far all that seems fine.

Thanks so much for the input, I love this forum just as much as VWVortex.


I believe you can disable the airbag pump and bleed off the pressure. Once there's no tension on the spring you can move the wheel to check for looseness.


Cooling systems are fine until they're not. I'm currently doing a repair on a friend's '06 4.4i (same N62 as yours) and it cracked the cylinder head bleed pipe 'Y' joint. That one is buried under the throttle body and is just waiting to bite. I previously did the water pump and thermostat as his pump bearing was so loose it was about to come apart. This time it's getting all new hoses.


PS: you don't need INPA, but you need the Foxwell (or similar BMW-enabled OBD scanner).

myeaglescout 11-12-2019 12:06 PM

I've read a lot of good stuff about the Bimmergeek pro cable as being top shelf, but I don't have one myself. Because I like the idea of carrying the scan tool around with me, I've picked up a cheap scan tool instead of having my laptop in the car all the time. If that get stolen, I'm in a World of Scat. I'm just using a generic scan tool right now to read the codes and live data when I'm tinkering, and I'm looking to get either the Foxwell 510, 520, or 530 (or an equivalent) when I get the time to sit down and make the decision. Both options have merit, you just have to decide which one you want, or get both if you have the cash and you'll have the best of both worlds.

CoughinCamel 11-12-2019 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by audiophool (Post 1171427)
I believe you can disable the airbag pump and bleed off the pressure. Once there's no tension on the spring you can move the wheel to check for looseness.


Cooling systems are fine until they're not. I'm currently doing a repair on a friend's '06 4.4i (same N62 as yours) and it cracked the cylinder head bleed pipe 'Y' joint. That one is buried under the throttle body and is just waiting to bite. I previously did the water pump and thermostat as his pump bearing was so loose it was about to come apart. This time it's getting all new hoses.


PS: you don't need INPA, but you need the Foxwell (or similar BMW-enabled OBD scanner).

Awesome I will look for some tutorials on bleeding those.

Oh man, dont scare me like that haha.
Ok so thats definitely on the list now. While I'm in that deep should I just go all the way to the timing chain tensioners?
This X5 has 132k on the clock. So I figured its time for that soon.

audiophool 11-12-2019 01:29 PM

I can't comment on N62 timing chains or tensioners as I have no direct experience, beyond saying that I've read they're more robust than the M62 setup. Others will chime in.


Friend's 4.4i has 300,000km on the original chains FWIW.

oldskewel 11-12-2019 01:39 PM

I would think about the risk factors in fixing a car with so many problems.

Is there a chance you'll spend __ months and $x,000 and then hit a wall in time/$$/will to keep working on it? Is this your one project, or just your current favorite of many?

Is there a chance you'll keep going through that wall and finish it, ending up with a car that cost you more to repair than it is then worth? Regardless of whether you got it for free, spent $1k or $10k on it, the question is where do you go from here.

If there are any doubts regarding those issues, then taking steps aimed at reducing risk first, or at least considering risk will be wise. For example, not much risk on the rear suspension - even if you replace everything, it will be less than $1k. Another example - a compression check reduces a lot of risk considering the limited effort involved.

Good luck.:thumbup:

CoughinCamel 11-12-2019 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldskewel (Post 1171441)
I would think about the risk factors in fixing a car with so many problems.

Is there a chance you'll spend __ months and $x,000 and then hit a wall in time/$$/will to keep working on it? Is this your one project, or just your current favorite of many?

Is there a chance you'll keep going through that wall and finish it, ending up with a car that cost you more to repair than it is then worth? Regardless of whether you got it for free, spent $1k or $10k on it, the question is where do you go from here.

If there are any doubts regarding those issues, then taking steps aimed at reducing risk first, or at least considering risk will be wise. For example, not much risk on the rear suspension - even if you replace everything, it will be less than $1k. Another example - a compression check reduces a lot of risk considering the limited effort involved.

Good luck.:thumbup:

Those are some very good points. I would like to keep this around and eventually lift it and keep it as an overlander.
I dont think I'll hit a wall unless I have have to do a major part (like a trans) but even then parts arent that expensive. It will just be parked until I can afford the part.
This is going to be my main project till its to a point I can just let it drive. I have really fallen in love with this truck.

I would like to reduce any potential monkey wrench as best I can. I kind of know what needs attention just wasnt sure were to focus first and if there were any things I was missing. Like the cooling system.

I found a couple kits for the whole rear running 4-600, which is nothing compared to the 1.5k I put into the front suspension of a 98 Nissan sentra. That was just oe parts too. (Cash for clunkers destroyed millions of dollars worth of remain parts, making a single driven hub minus bearing and knuckle, $180 no core)

I appreciate the thoughts you've put forth. Its nice to have a "are you really sure you wanna go through with this?" viewpoint.


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