Anyone ever replaced Rear Control Arm Bushings?
 

I am trying to press out and replace my rear control arm bushings on my 05 4.4 and am seeing MASSIVE scoring on the inner race of the control arm. I have have only removed one bushing so far as I don't want to screw up my control arm any further if I have done something wrong. 12ton Press and 50mm press sleeve. Just doesn't look or feel like other bushings I have pressed out in the past.

Did my e70 inner bushings a few months back and about to do my e53. The ones on the e70 didn't look pretty but I sanded them, put lube and the new bushings went in fine.
Maybe let them soak with some WD-40 or other penetrating lube before pressing them out?
YMMV.

If I have imperfect bearing / bushing race I'll find a bimetal hole saw about the exact size and use foam mounting tape to hold sandpaper and use a drill to hone the opening.

Anyone ever replaced Rear Control Arm Bushings?
 

Just replace the arms.

Worked for me.

The LOWER control arms are $600 each. The two bushings needed for each arm are a total of $30 per side. Please tell me you don’t help people with money issues for a living. I am replacing EVERY bushing and ball joint on the whole vehicle. But I am not going to chuck an extra $1,200 at the thing for no reason. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5eaacaabdf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1ad5efcaa5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...65e363d156.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1c8d62f5fb.jpg


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In this post you indicated LOWER, I have not had any issue with my lower, only upper. That was my assumption.

Yes I am a retired broker, but I think it’s unfair you slam me, because you did not state which arms that were faulty.

Regarding pressing in new bushings, make sure there is ZERO play!

lol


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The swing arm bushings you are replacing have to be compressed to install. I would imagine if they don't have compression applied as they start to come out they will start to expand as they come out and cause damage. You will need to precompress the new ones with hose clamps or you'll never get them in.

I currently have them at -10f in the freezer as I have done with other bushings in the pas. I will heat the swing arm to expand it prior to pressing. But I will definitely take your advice about trying to pre compress the bushing prior to installing. The scoring on the bore was just odd and not like anything I have ever seen before. I have done a ton of bushing replacements but this set just was very different


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Can you elaborate?

I find you to be funny and not very helpful.


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I feel like you are doing way too much!

Just my two cents!

Glad you don’t control my two cents. Please troll along somewhere else.


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Troll...

Now I find you funny...!

Mate I think you're being a bit harsh here... there are all sorts of levels of experience within this board and regardless of the value you might attach to a response, they are offered in good faith.

Whether they are right or wrong doesn't make them any less valuable after you asked for help/opinions.

You've already given back a correction/spray that was quite personal so leave it at that, delete the others and move on.

Cheers

... and if you had called them swing arms or maybe used the word "lower" before you freaked out, maybe you would not have got responses that you found so offensive.

Yes, and had I noticed that the pics of the lower arm bushings hadn’t posted with my original post as well... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...571bc56d16.jpg


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See image below. It is designed to be compressed when installing. A small engine piston ring compressor or as others have mentioned, leverage 2 worm drive hose clamps will accomplish the same thing. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-18500-S...96652412&psc=1

Better version:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W9FW7ST...dDbGljaz10cnVl
No need to freeze them or resort to other extremes.

BMW never designed them to be replaced in the field. USE big time caution when pushing them out. Make sure the bushing tool does NOT hit the face of the arm bore. You can just use PVC material and avoid destroying the arms.

Many posters just cut out the inside rubber and then it was easy to pull/push out the outer shell.

Helpful?

Love the Piston ring tool that's what I will do when I need to do this job


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The play I was referring to was some cheap probably Chinese made bushings the did not fit correctly.

The DIY below should be helpful...

Bushings Replacement DIY for Rear Lower Control Arm / Swing arm
https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...swing-arm.html

Great post!

So 390 Beers later... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d674196b47.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a10ae2797b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...39b333ab47.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3dfab64e42.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d88b22f05b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b8052a6da1.jpg
She is back on the road and in for an alignment tomorrow morning. 6 Pressed in bushings. 4 pressed ball joints. 6 control arms. 4 sway bar links. And a shit load of cleaning!


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Great job and she looks great.

I'm jealous of your shop, for me it's either laying on open flames, broken glass or my favorite both broken glass on the surface of the sun....[emoji16]

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I as well. What is your ceiling height?

My ceiling is 9'6" from the floor at the lowest point that happens to be directly above the lift towers. The lift is 9'3" so just squeezes in. Can get about 4' up with the X5, and about 5'6" up with my M3. Wish it was taller but I know that I have it better than 99.9% of DIYers so I don't complain. 12 4' light fixtures help almost as much as the lift!



https://www.twinbusch.com/product_in...products_id=20 is the lift I have and I LOVE IT!!! I did have to get the $400 spreader plates due to my concrete being just a hair thin and I didn't want to take any chances

Glad you got her back up running!

So final cost tally.

$211 for alignment and re-torque all fasteners while suspension is under load.
$792 Bushings / ball joints / control arms / overnight shipping
$94 all 4 sway bar end links
$273 Bud Light
$94 Pizza


I would call this a success. I was quoted $4,100 for a shop to do all the labor and provide the parts. I trust at the end of the day I did it better and saved a TON. I can say without question it handles just like it did the day it rolled out of BMW in 2005. The difference is BEYOND anything I imagined. I can not believe I put this off. Love the truck more now than when I bought it.

Yeah mine was night and day after the suspension repairs. Great savings!

Man, whata beer tab..! LoL...

Anything worth doing is worth doing right!!!



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Wow, well done! Just saw your post. Could've helped you a lot with those beers:D.

You should have come down. The beer supply was not an issue. The bigger issue was finding all the roaming 18mm and 22mm sockets


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Got her out for a decent drive today before leaving for a 900 mile road trip tomorrow morning. DAMN it feels like a totally different car! I can not believe I waited till it got this bad to fix it back to factory condition. Switched back to the studded tires so I know the road trip won't be quite as fun as possible but can not wait to get her up to speed on I-84!

Did you do the rear ball joints when you did the work on the rear or just the upper arms and lower control arm bushings?

I really need to do my rear ball joints, I'm sure. I am getting the itch to do mine, I'm sure they are beat at 175,000 miles.

EVERY BUSHING AND BALL JOINT I COULD FIND WAS REPLACED! So Rear ball joints on the spindle carrier, integral links, LOWER control (swing) arm bushings, both upper control arms, sway bar end links. Front torque arm bushings, ball joints, lower control arms, sway bar end links. The tie rod ends were in perfect shape as they were replaced 18 months ago (approx 10k miles).

Thank you for the reply. I have also done the complete front ball joints, thrust arms and control arms and upper arms on the rear were replaced with Hard Race adjustable arms and toe links but need to replace the integral links and ball joints. Did you do the rear ball joints in the car and what mobile press did you use?

I used a BFH (Big Fu***ng Hammer) for removal as pressing without the BMW specific tool proved to be futile. Absolutely douched everything in PB Blaster then used a torch to heat around the ball joint. Just swing for the fences and they popped out. I used the autozone 23 piece press kit to put the new one in. I froze all my bushings and ball joints in my -10 deep freezer and coated everything in copper anti seize. Everything went fairly amazing


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Copper anti-seize.... [emoji2959]

Why didn't I think of that?

If you had said that before I did mine I would have bought you beer and a pork sandwich (which over here is cost more than gold) just for the idea..[emoji1787]

Glad everything came together for you easier than mine!!

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I have found VERY few situations where painting copper anti seize on everything in site is a bad idea (yes I know not to coat rotor or contact surface of pads with the stuff) but in most every other situation it makes a bit of a mess but when you come back to it later... I keep like 3 bottles of the stuff spread out in all corners of my garage so it is always at arms reach


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I now have it added to my list to order from Big PX land[emoji106]

Here lately I seem to be reading things on here and then having whatever I read about happen to my X...

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I am glad it worked for you, but this scares the hell out of me. pounding out a steel bushing pressed into an alum housing. I bought the tool. Any BMW-style rear ball joint tool with at least one flat side should work.

I bought the CTA tool for $120, but the Bavauto rear bushing tool on ECS also looked good. I bet there are even cheaper options on Ebay

I agree on the being scared part. But my family has to drive 450 miles tomorrow for seeing family for Thanksgiving. I was out of time. And there is no way I could fit three kids, my wife and myself along with a weeks with of crap in my E36 M3/4/5. I would have been pissed if I broke it but would have just rented something for the week. But I told my wife I would try what I could in the time given. It worked out for me.


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I agree the pounding on the lower side of the ball joint could possibly break the ring of the carrier, not much material there. It scares me too so I think I will go with the tool as well since I will be on the ground in the garage. Eff, can you link the CTA tool you bought? I saw the BavAuto tool on ECS.

Using the ball joint tool make the job safe and easy. Approx 10 mins a side. I have now done three sets of these ball joint. The tool is simple to use, keeps the new joint square when you pull the new ball joint in, and will not remove any material in the swing arm. Note: Make sure you apply lots of of your favorite WD-40/PB Blaster rust penetration spray on these areas 24 hrs before you start, as many of these ball joints hang in salt spray all winter long year after year including the CA "beach surfer" crowd users.

Using copper anti-seize will makes disassembly easy for any future tasks. Especially true on wheels, rotor to hub, etc where you are into them on a 2-4 times annual bases. Pulling the wheels off and doing a proper cleaning (wash, scrub tires, clay wheel, wax, protection on the inside and out side of the tires will keep your X happy and all shiny... :)

Thanks everyone. It looks like it comes down to the BavAuto tool on ECS Tuning for $102 or the CTA tool for $130 because of the needed flat edge for our E53. Any further advise on my choice?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto.../b8800028~bav/

https://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-869...all+joint+tool

Either will do the job.

THE CTA tool has a bearing built into the center where you crank on the hardened nut to press the bushing in or out. I am not sure the Bavauto tool has it.

At the moment, I have 4 cars with these rear ball joints (2 x5's & 2 E39's). I bought the CTA tool thinking it would more smoothly remove/install and might last longer. It worked great the one time I have used it so far. If you go the CTA route, make sure you get a 26mm deep-ish socket or box end wrench to turn the nut.

I have the CTA tool and it works perfectly every time.

Not a bad video, but the E39 is a little different. on the X5 the key trick to this job is relieving spring pressure on the wheel carrier. On a car with air suspension you unhook an air hose leading to suspension. On a car with coils, you need to compress the spring with a small spring compressor or a modified bottle jack.

On an X5 rear ball joint, you only need to remove:
1. The long bolt that goes thru the rear ball joint
2. The bolt that holds the integral link at the top
3. the lower strut bolt to give some extra wiggle room.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...ng-set-up.html

and check out the other link in that thread for more info.

Exactly the information about the bearing in the tool I appreciate. Is it necessary to remove the swing arm or can it be done by lowering the arm enough to get the tool in place? I would assume removing the lower shock bolt as it becomes a droop limiter? I have the ZSP sport suspension with coils not bags.

You do not have to remove the swing arm. If you release spring pressure and unbolt the three bolts I mention above the swing arm will actually slip ABOVE the wheel carrier with the ball joint. You can then remove/reinstall the ball joint from below the swing arm. Levering the swing arm down and back into place took me quite a while. I used a long wooden stake (1-2 inches thick) to lever the swing arm down. I put the lower strut bolt thru the lower strut hole (without strut attached) and used that as a lever point to push the swing arm down.

My head hurts. This might just be too much to do on my floor in the garage... :(

I did mine on the floor of my garage. It's really not that bad. I had read somewhere that getting both sides of car off ground made it easier to re-align everything as the rear sway bay (attached to swing arm) is not under tension if both sides are off the ground, so that is what i did.

I keep thinking by disconnecting the right side level sensor and removing the lower shock bolts and sway bar links on both sides it would give me the lower control arm droop I need to access the ball joint carriers. :dunno:

I did mine on the floor of my garage when I did my suspension refresh. It wasn't too hard. ONCE I got the proper bushing removal tool. Those "universal" tools do not work on our X5's. You have to have a flat side or it won't fit. With the correct tool, it's a snap.

I was in a jam time wise and had to buy this one. Cost is ridiculous, but I'll probably sell it when I someday let go of my X5. If I don't buy another. :yikes: https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2006-20...EAAOSwZ7VddDYc

The tool you need is also available super cheap on Ebay. If you don't plan on using it more than once or twice, they're probably OK.

I bought the perfect rear ball-joint bushing removal tool from aliexpress for $63 with free shipping. This is the OEM replica with the flat edge. It arrived in about 2 weeks. Surprisingly very good quality. Bushing out and in within 20 minutes.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3245...43d24c4dzwSi4m

I always check with these guys before buying any expensive tool.

Looks like the vendor has a presence on ebay with even lower price at $52 with free shipping.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Supercrazy-...kAAOSwed9dtebU

OK, I pulled the trigger on that one. For $50, I'll give it a try. :thumbup:

Now I still need to get a proper tool for the rear lower control arm inner bushings. Anyone have tool recommendations for that one?

Save yourself a lot of heartburn. Do what I did. Take it to a machine shop with a press. Yes, it cost me a little money, but I didn't have the heartburn of having to deal with fixing things or getting a replacement part after I effed it up. Pulled the arms, took them and the new bushings to the machine shop, dropped them off and picked them back up a few hours later. Money well spent and time saved.

Are you suggesting pulling the spindle carrier for having the ball joints replaced? Because that is what everyone for the last 25 posts has been talking about. If it has to do with my original post about the lower control arm bushings, they are easy to do if you have a press and follow the compression instructions given here and or the other included thread on how to press them. If you don’t have a press you can not do the bushings at home.


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You're right, I need to do this right instead of trying to make it a one day project. Certainly if the lower arms are completely off, I should have a straight shot at the ball joints.

I need to find a local auto/race machine shop close by that I can schedule with. The X is our daily so I have to limit the downtime.

I'm not referring to the ball joints. They're easy with the correct tool. I'm talking about the swing arm bushings that have to be compressed before being pressed into place.

Good advice. That's what I tried but everyone I asked were not willing and wanted to do the whole job or charge more than a couple of $100, more than enough to buy the tools. But if he can find a non-automative shop with a shop press, they may not care and charge a nominal fee or probably even do the work for free.

X5only, didn't you do yours with a C-Clamp? I want that tool you used.

https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/...swing-arm.html

No, I didn't. I tried but it required tremendous force. I ended up using a shop press as mentioned earlier. But as Fifty150hs pointed out in post #58, at least try looking for a shop than can remove and press the bushing for you.

I'll buy the cheap 12 ton press from Harbor Freight is I have to but won't I still need those adapters used in the C Clamp tool? If I can get those adapters to cleanly remove and reinstall the bushings, it can be done in minutes on a press without a doubt.

The press and receive adapters here is what I need. :thumbup:

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...g-arm-pic3.jpg

You can rent the c-clamp tool and dies from autozone in their 23 piece set for $140 that is fully refundable when returned (I think they allow you 4 days)


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I stopped by my Advance Auto and they have this one for rent. I just don't know if it will have the size dies I need. This is the one they offer. Does this look like the one you rented?

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...126_144448.jpg

Yes. But I have a press already and a set of press dies.


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Can you tell me if your press came with the dies you mention, and specifically did the rental kit have dies that fit that I can use? I see a mention of the Sir Tools 3027 adapter in the other thread and can pick that up for $55 so I might go that route.

*EDIT* I went ahead and ordered the Sir Tools 3027 bushing adapter kit from Tool Discounter

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/produ...kit-sirbmw3027

https://www.tooldiscounter.com/tool_...sirbmw3027.jpg

Shankly Bushing Removal Tool, Bushing Driver Set, 50 Piece Seal Drive Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072LWQNW8..._ECF3Db58AN7XQ


Titan 12 Ton Hydraulic Shop Floor Press H Frame 24000 lb w/ Heavy Duty Steel Plates https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N02V1DX..._3IF3DbGCZY9ZB

I used parts from the rented kit basically as a receiving cup so I didn’t have to do some wonky unsafe pressing


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Thank you :beerchug:

Thanks @X5only! I ordered the Supercrazy rear ball joint removal/installer kit you linked for me on Wednesday and it showed up today! Gotta love Amazon :thumbup:

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...129_175519.jpg

A large box from FCP Euro showed up today with lots of suspension bushings and bearings! :thumbup:

Are you going to replace the rear upper arms? and or the front lower arm? They all have bushing / ball joints that go out. I just drove our X 1,300 miles after replacing everything and I swear it drives as good as the day it firts drove off the dealer lot


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Did the rear upper control arms and toe arms with adjustable Hard Race arms earlier this year. Also all front arms and ball joints were replaced at the same time. Only thing left up there is sway bar links and front wheel bearings. :thumbup:

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...226_160027.jpg

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...124_122922.jpg

Looks good. Can’t wait to hear how you like it after you complete the parts you just got!


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Started the work in the rear today. Not going to lie, this is a genuine PITA. No matter how much preparation and planning goes into a project, it never goes straight.

Got the bushings pressed into both lower control arms, replaced the sway bar end links, integral links, ball joints and got one side back together but still working on the left side.

I am struggling with my Fleabay ball joint tool, it's like the flat edge isn't flat enough for the left side and won't sit flush on the back of the joint so it wants to press out uneven and causing binding. Right side went perfect. :dunno:

Amazingly all the parts have 176,000 miles on them and didn't look too bad.
Even the ball joints seemed tight. I'll continue the drama tomorrow and hopefully get to the front wheel bearing.

Have you used excessive heat yet?


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No heat yet, the problem isn't rust or frozen joint, the tool doesn't fit flush on the back side of the carrier and causes the joint to begin pressing out at an angle and binds. It moved 1 to 2 mm on one side so it isn't frozen, just not pressing out straight. I pressed it back in and will take a grinder to the tool tomorrow when I continue. Having the lower control arms off gives me plenty of view and can see the receiver cup not flush on the carrier. :dunno:

I would still heat the carrier. But that is me.


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Yeah, haven't gone for the "Hail Mary" yet. I can see the problem and need to sort that out before shoving that joint out at an angle. I tried moving forward anyway but once the bolt got tight I stopped because don't want to damage my press or carrier so I will get that sorted first.

Grinder or a bandsaw will cut a little more off that flat side


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Just a little grinding on the flat edge of the tool for it to sit straight and she came right out. Rear is done other than putting it down and torquing all the bolts at ride height. Moved to the front and got the bearing out and pressed back in with little trouble other than the axle remover press I got didn't fit the X5 hub but luckily the axle came right out.

A little nervous pressing the bearing out, Holy **** that was tight. My 20 ton press jumped an inch with a loud bang when it finally started to move. I can't imagine doing that on the car with the kits they offer with the stud. I can see now what Andrew means when you need to go with a 3/4" stud to replace the stripped 1/2". I can't see how that would possibly have moved with that tool.

You are going to be in utter shock the first time you drive it after all this. Mine was like a totally different vehicle! Congratulations on the progress


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Thanks! It has been an effort. My pit crew would be laughing at me for all the blood, grease and difficulty this was for me. :rofl:

Honestly though all the parts that came off were decent looking and feeling to me, even the ball joints seemed fine but at 176,000 miles there has to be wear for sure.

Here is the bounty of replaced components.

Are you skipping front ball joints and bushings?


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I replaced all the front arms and ball joints a year ago when I did the rear upper arms. The reason I did the front bearing was the idiots at my Indy that replaced my front axles bent the front hub somehow banging out the old axles and the wheel hub centric was out of round and had a slight shimmy in the steering wheel over 65MPH.

That's when I decided to start trying to do this stuff myself so I know it gets done right. :thumbup:

https://xoutpost.com/attachments/x5-...124_122922.jpg

The stock kits have 3/4 push rod. It needs to be 7/8 minimum I used 1”.

The BANG is exactly what happened my first couple but since I use impact now I can’t hear the bang from the bearing.

I have two bearing jobs in the queue. Left front on my E53 and right rear on an E90. I’m going to try to use some off the shelf parts to do the press to give some DIY ideas for others.

And finished. Had the alignment done, torqued all the bolts and a new set of rear Conti 315s. 3 complete days but happy to have it behind me. Happy dance. :strut:

Fantastic.



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I think I see a set of B6s at around 200,000 miles. The current factory struts and shocks still feel really tight, and the rear shocks damping felt amazing by hand.

Another note, on the X5 I marked everything before disassembly and after the complete bushings and ball joints, the alignment came back within .1 degrees of camber from where it was before the work. I guess the old bushings and joints really were in decent shape after all but at least I know they are new now. :dunno:

I just did the BBK, B8s and H&R 21mm/27mm sway bars on my E46 so the money in my slush fund is getting low.

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/attach...1&d=1579128775

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/attach...1&d=1577651507

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/attach...1&d=1577573687

:thumbup::thumbup:

Did you replace front end rear control arms by chance and do you still have 'em if they are in hand me down shape. Bought some new lemforder and the week I was about to install my wife's X5 needed them worse. (much worse).

Since then "something else" keeps getting in the way of my control arm replacement :

Two new rear O2

One at a time front 02

Front right bearing

Front left bearing.

Wife's right rear.

Wife's sway bar links.

Sorry Andrew, I did replace those front control arms complete along with front tension arms as well but threw them away when I did the work last year. They would have been in very good used condition but they are gone. I will keep you in mind in the future with any parts I replace.