Fuel Injection System Error
 

Hey all, long time listener, first time caller.

We have a 2005 e53 diesel, I'm in love with it, however on the drive home today after putting some fresh tyres on it the car lost all power and flashed up with the inject. system error. Luckily we had enough momentum to cruise out of the way of traffic and pull over somewhere out of the way. I shut down the car completely and tried to start it again a few times with no luck (it would just crank away but not fire up).

A quick google later and I had accepted it was something i probably wasnt going to be able to resolve on the side of the road so I was going to have to call a tow truck. I thought "I'll give it one more shot before I do" and as I turned the key she fired back to life like nothing had happened. Drove about 10 minutes home without incident, then shut it off in my driveway. Tried to start it again about a minute later after opening my front gate and no luck, It would just sit there cranking over as if it had no fuel (not throwing any errors or anything).

10 minutes later the wife went out to move it and it fired up with no problem straight away.

Being so intermittent I imagine its going to be a nightmare to try and diagnose, so I'm wondering if anyone has experienced this behaviour and would be able to point me directly to the culprit to save me alot of time and hassle chasing ghosts around an engine bay.

Sounds like a fuel pump on the way out. Diesel have two, one to move the fuel to the engine compartment and one to pressurize to high pressure for injection into the cylinders. Could be either but hope and pray it's the low pressure pump it's a lot less expensive.

How many estimate hours (divide odometer by average speed)

If they are the original pumps, I'd say probably 9000-9500 hours.

The low pressure fuel pump should last about 5000 hours. 9000 hours would be about 240,000 miles, what did you use for average speed and distance?


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From the onboard computer I got an average speed of 32.7kph (20.3mph) and distance was 300,000 km (186400 miles)

Actually, there's three fuel pumps on our 2005 3.0d E53.... One electric pump in the tank, one in-line electric pump in front of the tank and then the main high pressure mechanical pump bolted to the engine (HPFP).

Here's the in-line pump...

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/13795_x800.webp
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/bGj92asy9U8/maxresdefault.jpg

This "injector" fault could be caused by any of them. Or a clogged fuel filter. Or a failed fuel rail pressure sensor, fuel rail pressure regulator or fuel flow regulator.

A scan of the DDE error codes with INPA or PASoft etc. would go a long way to reducing the number of possiblities...

Sounds like a fun one to track down...I wouldn't imagine it to be the mechanical hpfp as its an intermittent issue? I would imagine the mechanical hpfp to just fail and thats that?

I plugged a simple scan tool in and got no codes from that, currently awaiting a friend to bring their laptop and software around to dive deeper for codes.

Most likely right but there is a flow regulation solenoid on the back of the HPFP that can fail in this mode...

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/xDIAA...WNq/s-l300.jpg

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Cb4AA...p4~/s-l300.jpg

yay, guess im stuck waiting for my friend with his software then...Thanks for the input so far, I will update once I have more information.

The hard core test I found for fuel pumps didn't test diesel only E0 E10 E20. The avg lifespan on those are 4000,5000,6000 hours.

If diesel is similar to gas in lifespan you are just about perfectly due for pump #2. (main tank pump).

If running on the original, that would be literally exceptional (or previous owner drove a lot of highway miles and the actual average speed is closer to 40 mph)

Stand outside there car when off on the starboard side and turn the key to on and listen under the right rear seat for the fuel pump. It should whirr for about six seconds then stop.

No whirr; for sure it's the low pressure pump. The problem is when it's intermittent. So; if you get a no start, than leave the door open so you can stand outside and listen for the pump and try several times turning the key to off then on. If the pump fires up it's either the pump or the ignition switch. (I've never heard of the ignition switch failure to cause a stall while driving but if the right contact opens it would be the same as turning the key to off)

Interesting on the quantify of pumps: the "diesel block diagram" combines the high pressure stuff into one black box: I've never worked on a diesel x5

Have you ever had a no start situation before the moving stall?

This is better than a "black box". :thumbup:

BMW M57TU fuel flow...
https://i.ibb.co/JsQTLYg/M57-TU-Fuel-Block.jpg

Cick the image for a larger version.

And yes, you read that correctly - the HPFP output is up to 1600bar (23,206psi).

Don't screw with diesel fuel rails when they are running!!! :yikes:

The diagram shows the excess from the supply fuel pump doesn't go to the filter/FPR before going to the siphon jet that doesn't seem correct.

Also what is the B line to the injectors for?

The diagram is for the M57TU engine in general and may not be E53 specific in relation to the actual tank arrangement... :dunno:

The B line from the injector is the injector leak-back line. In the image below, dark purple is HP fuel to the injector and light purple is LP fuel from the injector leak-back.

https://s19529.pcdn.co/wp-content/up...jector-45.jpeg

I have had 2 no start situations in the last month. The first I was in a hurry and figured I had not allowed enough time for the glow plugs to heat up. It started second try.... The other no start situation was just a week ago, it wouldn't start after 2 attempts, I pulled they key out of the ignition, put it back in and it started fine. As it was still a somewhat isolated incident and was showing no other symptoms of anything being wrong, I thought nothing of it.

Fuel Injection System Error
 

If you had reported those two situations without other new ones the #1,2 and 3 most likely candidate of failure would be the ignition switch.

It's nearly 100 chance of what caused the problem for the exact thing you did; tried a couple times and after I took out the key and tried again it started. That's the exact symptom of a failing ignition switch

That would be a lot easier and cheaper fix than anything fuel related on a diesel.

If you can get 2nd level codes read it will be very helpful. If say you hit a bump it jiggles the ignition switch and kills power momentarily when driving you will usually see the low voltage error on a lot of systems.


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Hmmm, Its definitely worth exploring then. If it were a failing ignition switch, would i generally lose accessories with the moving stall? All power accessories (radio, fans, instruments) were completely unaffected aside from the quick "fuel inject system" warning that flashed on the display.

The idea is momentary blip of power loss. Example: when a cam shaft sensor stops sending the signal the engine computer has no alternative than to cut power to the injectors. It literally doesn't know where the camshaft is within the cycle so can't determine when the fuel should spray or the spark should fire.

If any mission critical component is affected the engine will.shut off to save the engine from self destruct. If the power blip is short enough you won't even notice. The accessories will still run.

Consider: if you turn the key one click back the accessories still run but the engine shuts off and if you turn back to start position nothing happens. Eg engine will not start running again. I don't think it matters if you do it fast enough that momentum carries the engine far enough it would run the computer won't send fuel or spark.

You are right, I guess if the switch is faulty in the "ignition" position, you could still crank it over while the car essentially thinks its just on "accessories" too. A bit of research shows the switch to be a reasonable common issue with similar (albeit not quite identical) symptoms. They are cheap enough to take a gamble on so I might just order one and throw it in while I wait on my friend with his software etc.

People have been known to refurbish as well. My M.O. in such case is to Amazon a part then when I have a new part on hand attempt to refurbish. If the fix works I'm out like $5-6 to return


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Just a quick update,

While I await the new ignition switch...and wait for my friend with his cable and software, The car has been driven 8-10 times...In this it has experienced 2 rolling stalls, unwilling to start for 2-3 minutes afterwards, and one no start situation.

The first rolling stall, the car had only been running 30 seconds or so, I had just started backing out of my driveway when it shut off, It displayed NO errors or warnings. It took me about a minute of fiddling with the key to get it to start again. It was fine starting and driving for a period of 1.5 hours over 6 or so trips spread over a 9 hour period for the rest of that day.

The second rolling stall was today, the car had been running for about 5 minutes and we were driving at about 60kph, It beeped displaying a familiar "fuel inject. system" error as the engine shut off and we pulled over to the side of the road safely. It took about 3 minutes of playing with the key to get it to start. After getting it to start the fuel inject system error stayed on the display for 15-20 seconds and disappeared. The car then made a 45 minute trip in town, sat and waited while I ate dinner, then started and made the 45 minute trip back home without incident.

Still displays no current, or stored codes with my obd2 scantool.

It won't - it will likley only show codes related to emision issues - not BMW-specific engine error codes.

Time for INPA/DIS/PASoft/ISTA or a Foxwell etc.

Its a shame, it has no problem pulling toyota specific codes in relation to failed cells in hybrid batteries etc :(....looks like ill be investing in what I need to read it if my mate cant get a move on with his stuff lol

Possibly more a limitation with the specific software rather than the hardware - since it can obviously read *some* codes from BMW. :dunno:

Funny aside; "mate" men's something quite different in America. What's funny is, the context usually helps determine which meaning (eg American meaning of my romantic partner) but stronger than context is apparently accent because if you hear an Aussie accent it will be quite clear the meaning is non romantic pal.

Ok another one for me to keep an eye out for, but if it is any consolation I had this issue once (injector failure error) but car still ran and odd errors like dsc off, it was my battery! and my battery was low due to a supposedly known starter motor issue (drawing too much current on each startup causing more juice loss than could be replenished by an average daily drive)

Definitely Australian..."Mate" is interchangeable with (and the preferred term for) "pal, buddy, friend" etc over here...




I have read about all sorts of battery issues. Having said that, The battery and alternator were replaced on this one about 6 months ago...I wouldnt imagine it to be the battery as it has no problem whatsoever cranking the big girl over with plenty of enthusiasm.

Ok hope you get it sorted soon....

Update with codes.

So I managed to get some time to cruise over to my friends place and pull all the codes from my X5....It had 8 stored in memory, One that was really of interested to me.

It had 42 12 24, 42 22 24, 42 32 24, 42 42 24, 40 A1 32, 4B 90 31, 45 60 11 and 45 90 11

After clearing them all, I started the car and monitored, after about a minute of idling the first 5 codes returned but the last 3 did not, The car was not misbehaving in any way and was driving fine. I'm guessing the last 3 will return when it stalls next.

4212,4222, 4232, and 4242 indicate the first four glow plugs are dead, or the glow controller is dead. Or both. Replace all glow plugs and the controller.

40A1 is an alternator issue. Check alternator output etc.

4B90 (low rail on start), 4560 and 4590 are all indicating low rail pressure.

It could be an intermittent fuel flow regulator on the HPFP. But it could be a few other items also.... :dunno:

Alternator issue likely a cascade fault; engine not turning enough rippums to get proper power out of the alternator.

Would it make more sense the glow plug controller since what is the odds four plugs are all broken?

Alternator faults returns prior to stalling issue so not related.

Very likely to have glow plug failure. They only last 100,000km and fault out (open/short) due to number of heating/cooling cycles.

The controller is also known to go bad (same welded joints as ABS controller) so just replace the lot....

Smart thinking


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I'll put a new glow plug controller in it and see if that resolves the glow plug fault codes, if not i'll give it a set of new glow plugs.

Re: the fuel rail pressure, Is there any procedure to isolate and test/replace just the flow regulator on the hpfp? I'm hesitant to start throwing major parts at it without being 100% sure (or as sure as one reasonably can be).

There is a diagnostics process...

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ontrol/2wZTOhh

Update:

The new ignition switch arrived today. spent 15-20 minutes putting it in (it was alot more fiddly than I expected it to be)....I wont know if it resolved the issue until well...until it doesn't die again i guess...Having said that, it may well just be the placebo effect, but I can hear the in tank and in line pumps alot louder now (I could never really hear them at all before), and power delivery seems significantly smoother and stronger) again, may very well just be the placebo effect...Spent probably 3-4 hours driving around and doing christmas shopping at various different places with no issue whatsoever...so hopefully thats sorted it.

Either way I have ordered a new glow plug control module

Update with some good, and some bad news.

Bad news is..the problem remains....Good news is, the vehicle now will not start at all with the problem moving from intermittent to persistent..So that should make the issue easier to track down....

Focusing on the 4B90, 4560 and 4590 codes. Would they be likely to be thrown by a failed in tank, or inline pump causing pressure to drop before the hpfp or are there other codes for low pressure before the hpfp?

Should probably update this.

swapped out the fuel pump relay with the horn relay, Symptoms moved from "persistent" to "non existent". All codes cleared, None have returned....

New relay ordered, New relay sitting on shelf because car is running without issue and I cant be bothered pulling the fuse box out again to change the horn relay lol.

Thanks for the follow-up!! :thumbup: