And I hope you did something to keep the rain out - if the drivers door master switches get wet, corrosion in the circuit boards in this unit will cause many other faults, including door locking issues and mirror problems....

It was a lite drizzle when I was driving home and I parked under a carport. I also put a blanket up to keep most of the moister out of the car. Today at work I am also parked under a carport.

If the bolt that holds the glass to the lifting mechanism gets loose the window will go up and down fine until lower all the way:. Then the back edge tilts in too far and you won't be able to raise the window.

You can usually wrap some gorilla tape around the top edge of the glass to push it forward and the window will operate more or less normally.

When you open up the door you will likely find a very weird almost square nut at the bottom of your door. The bolt that holds the window will rattle loose and bring forth your symptoms.

If the window was able to raise and lower ok until it got stuck it's very likey nothing broken

If the window is still visible at the sill you might be able to assist it back into position and close the window. I had this problem while I was out of town where there was maybe a 1/4 inch of window above the sill. Not enough to get a good grip on it with your fingers.

To close the window I picked up a roll of 2 inch clear packing tape and attached 2 pieces of tape to the top of the window to form pull tabs. I put one at the rear of the window and one about 8 inches forward around the middle of the window. I got about an inch of adhesion on each side of the window glass and left a 2 inch tab above the window to grip. Then I was able to pull on the tabs while engaging the motor to close the window. After it was closed I used more tape to secure the window to the frame so I couldnt open it again until it was fixed.

The main problem was the black clips had broken causing the window to tilt and jam against the rear window track. If you can use the tape pull tabs to create some lift at the rear of the window you might be able to get it back up.

I also found that the metal/plastic window clip guide was broken where the regulator cable attaches to open/close the window.

Here's what you probably need:
Black Clips
Regulator Guide Clips

FYI You might want to shop around for better prices on these items.

P.S. I now keep the tape in the X5 just in case it happens again with another window.

The window would struggle to go up, but going down it was fine. I was in the drive through and rolled it down to order then rolled it up until I got to the window that's when it wouldn't go back up.

The tape worked! Thank you for the tip! Now I don't have to drive to work with the window down!

Xo doing what it does


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You can also use a stick (like chopsticks) to help push the glass forward so it doesn't get caught coming out but the tape is safer.

Almost certainly the bolt just loosened up but there is a solid chance the clip broke

The window parts break because nobody ever lubricates the guides. I've used dry Teflon lube spray and got 60% faster windows instantly. How much faster do parts wear when pushing 38% harder every time ?

One of the YouTube mechanics I watch uses silicone spray i going to try that next time I think it will last longer in the wet.

I finally got a chance Sunday to open up the door panel and see what was wrong with the window. I ended up replacing the regulator and clips but I think the old regulator was fine it was the regulator guide clips that were bad and since I didn't order those clips I just replaced the regulator and the window clips. I lubed up the cables before installing the new regulator. I didn't replace the motor, but I think I might have to in the future as the window rolls up and down it seems to struggle a little bit. But this might get better in time. When I first tested the window it really struggled but worked, I played with it a few more times before putting the door panel back together and it started working better, but it still isn't as smooth as the other windows.

I think the problem has been going on for a while. The old regulator guide was wired around the cable. See picture.

Glad to hear the tape worked!

You should order the regulator guide clips and replace them too if they are broken.

Also in that photo the slotted bolt holding the window glass to the clip is not the original bolt. You might also want to make sure you have the correct bushing nut. Anything that was previously hacked to get the window working may be degrading the performance of the window mechanism.


Here are the correct parts.
Bolt: 07-14-7-154-229
https://cdn1.pelicanparts.com/catalo...-229-BOE_1.jpg

Nut: 51-33-8-242-760
https://cdn1.pelicanparts.com/catalo...242-760-M9.jpg