Engine Mount Replacement
 

I would like to start a discussion on engine mount replacement for our E53 X5s. There is virtually nothing on YouTube University that isn't a backyard hack so if anyone has replaced the mounts on your X, chime in with tips and tricks.

I have an annoying vibration in my X only at idle that can be felt throughout the car. Steering wheel, door panels, etc. My E46 had a similar vibration at idle and the mount replacement in that car solved it to where you can't even tell its running without looking at the tach.

It seems like the right side is fairly easy by removing the mount bracket from the side of the engine for additional room but it seems like the left side can be challenging to lift the engine enough to get the room needed for removal and installation.

Have any of you guys done your mounts without dropping the front subframe? I would prefer not disconnecting the steering shaft and going through all of that if possible but I probably need some education from you guys to start my planning for the task.

I did both and I recall it being the battle of the titans, one side being easy and the other a challenge - I think the driver side? But it's very much doable without dropping the subframe. One tool I recall being a savior was an extra long thin 10mm closed wrench to turn the two small nuts mm by mm. I was doing a complete overhaul of front suspension at that time, so your situation may be different if other suspension components are in the way. I lifted the engine using the harborfreight engine brace tool. Get started and those of us who have tackled it can help along.

Thanks X5only, what was your situation with the mounts? Did you have a vibration at idle and did that solve it or something different?

Yes, the engine used to have vibrations at idle and that went away - it was a kind of a little "dance" more than vibrations. But note that I did a complete front suspension overhaul, so I can't say with absolute confidence the new mount replacement is what fixed it. The mounts didn't seem to be worn out or leaking though, but you can never trust the appearance of rubber.

My E46 mounts weren't leaking or broken but they were 1/2" shorter than the replacements so they were definitely in need of replacement. What a huge difference it made in that car.

- Corteco is the OEM supplier.

- I wrote a DIY for my 1998 528i. It is similar for E53 M54.
The driver's side bracket: leave the last bolt (rear upper bolt) alone, just loosen it, no need to remove it. It makes installation easier.


DIY: 1998 528I Engine/Trans Mounts Replacement
https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=539957

Thank you Cam, I read your thread, that is very helpful. The only difference I see would be the transfer case, front left axle and forward driveshaft coming into play on the left side. One of the videos on YouTube University showed the left side bracket would not unbolt like the right side but I can't verify that.

I know when I did my 3 series, I lifted the engine enough to replace 1 side, lowered the engine back enough to loosely attach it and then raised the engine again and it lifted only one side (being that the one I just replaced was holding the other side down) and it gave me enough room to pull the opposite one out that was giving me difficulty.

I did mine a few months ago and and while I was at it I replaced the front guibo and the transmission/TC mount and that helped a lot. Having the front shaft and TC mount off allows a little more wiggle room and didn't have to drop the subframe.

It still wasn't that fun and I did it all on a lift....[emoji850]

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It has been suggested by one of our members that the front guibo can cause vibrations at idle too. I want to start with the mounts to rule them out first. I have the junior lift so I have plenty of room, I just need to research more before diving under there like a Bavarian cowboy and tearing sh!t up. :bustingup

You guys with a lift are lucky :thumbup:. I do repairs on my poor back. There's a DIY state-of-the-art garage near my place, but one could easily rack up $$$ in rental fee - they charge by the hour. I only go there for quick clear shot projects that I've done a thousand times.

I wouldn't say lucky...

I used a lift in a shop maintained by Egyptian mechanics, in a neighborhood that has bars on the trashcan and where I'm pretty sure some of them would like an American rug hanging on the wall...[emoji15]

But for $26.00 USD on a space available deal, well I'm to old to wait if there's going to be a fight [emoji1787]

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I'm definitely on my back too with the QuickJack, just a lot more room than my old jackstands but it really makes a big difference rolling around on a creeper. I think I end up with just over 24" of lift.

The subframe lowering doesn't look too bad, 50sKid video shows it really is not that hard, I'm just being lazy I guess. Anything with steering just makes me nervous...

https://youtu.be/aLevezPHueI

Anyway, ordered the Corteco mounts from FCP and should be here when I get back from the Rolex 24 this weekend. :thumbup:

Man, my mounts are definitely collapsed.... DIY seems to be above my know how and i'm without the necessary tools.

Replacement mounts are not expensive however, If I can recall accurately a local indy shop quoted me close to $3K to have them serviced.

Seems high... anyone else have experience with a shop refreshing the mounts?

I've had my mounts here for quite some time and I keep kicking the can down the road while doing other auto projects since the E53 is the most reliable BMW we own. LOL. Ssssshhhhhh don't tell anyone (or the X5).

I'll find out how bad the install is soon though. Wagon just got completed last night and waiting for trans valve body rebuild for the wife's diesel. Want to get it going before tackling Red. If you beat me to the punch good luck with your R&R. :thumbup:

X5only, I read your thread and see you lowered the subframe a few inches. Question: Did you have to remove the steering coupler u-joint?

I had both mounts and the rear drive shaft guibo replaced at the same time. Dealership charge was $2242 including parts.


The vibration from the engine was incredible. I thought either the VANOS had gone wacko or ignition timing was messed up. Everything in the vehicle seem to shake at idle - door panels, headliner and steering wheel. Both engine mounts were shot and the tech said it contributed to the guibo deterioration as well.


2002 X5 3.0 371,000 miles
2014 428i 66,000 miles


2004 325i sold at 123,600 miles
2001 325i sold at 66,000 miles


1970 Firebird Under restoration



Everything was back to normal

I had the engine mount replacement not too long ago.
Like everyone says, passenger side is not difficult at all. Just undo top 2 nuts on both side, and raise the engine.
The difficulty comes on driver side. Raising the engine only won't clear the mount due to transfer case on the way. You need to drop front subframe. Not complete removal, just undo 6 bolts until it still has couple turns on thread.
Subframe won't DROP, it's still tied to control arms, so you need to muscle it down.

The most tedious part was.... aligning mount bolts to engine. Since engine was lifted, and subframe was loose, I had to try few times to align engine mount bolts to the engine so that I can tie top nuts.

Excellent information! So just loosen the 6 subframe mounting bolts and leaved the steering u-joint connected? That would make things really easy.

Could you please post a link to the thread? That could help jog my biological flash drive.

Yes, I didn't touch steering u-joint. Oh. Forgot to note that I had to remove driver side sway bar link, because sway bar was on the way too.

BTW, this was done to m62. M54 will be slightly different, but shouldn't be much.

Changed my front guibo (falling apart) and that relieved a tiny bit of high speed vibration, but after replacing engine mounts, ALL idle vibration is gone. Like Srmmmm said, stopped door panels, dash, center console.....everything from vibrating. LOL Wish I would have done it a long time ago. Got lazy and paid my indy to replace so no help on guidance, but I'm sure crystalworks and I will have some more insight after getting to his 4.8is. :stickpoke

Where in CA are you located? My indie in OC quoted me about $750 in labor and about $1k out the door including parts. It's still haven't bug me enough to spend that $1k :D

PM me if you're in SoCal and want my indie's info.

Oh boy, I'd totally forgotten about that. Yeah, dropped the subframe a few inches. No, I didn't mess around with the steering coupler u-joint.

Looks like loosening the subframe and dropping it a couple of inches is the way to go to get the mounts replaced.

This is exactly the information I needed and why our forum and members are so helpful for planning any project. Thanks everyone! :thumbup:

Has anyone taken a gamble on aftermarket mounts? I know conventional BMW wisdom is BMW/OE only, but let's face it... the BMW mounts haven't held up great and will certainly fail again. Just curious, as this job is somewhere in cue for my E53. I'll probably go with the OE Corteco mounts unless anyone can report good service from something else.

AM.

No need to drop the subframe, although I did my mounts when replacing the oil pan gasket, which did require a subframe drop.

Just get an engine lifting device (about $50 at harbor freight on sale, but I had to 'extend' it)

Undo the engine mount bolts (release the mount from subframe), and then unbolt the support arm from the block. Take the support arm out with the mount attached, and then replace the mount on the bench.

On the d/s, you do need to get some extra stuff out of the way like the axle and dipstick tube. You may also need to remove the air intake ducting and plastic splash shield for access. I think you can leave the stiffening plate in place.

I have to do the same to my 06 M54. Same symptoms, bad vibrations at idle.

Are you guys replacing the subframe and engine mount bolts? Seems as though BMW recommends to do so.

New engine mounts are my Presidents day project along with replacing the front guibo, new poly sway bar bushings and oil level sensor. Started with the need to replace the sensor. Figured since I was going to have to drop the stiffening plate and I have the bad vibration at idle I'd take care of a bunch of items while the plate was off. The sway bar bushings have never been replaced in 245,000 miles. Even when I did the suspension refresh.

I purchased class 12 bolts and nuts for about $20. At that price replacing the stiffening plate nuts and bolts is a no brainer.

I'm going to rent an engine hoist for $40 since the Harbor Freight engine support isn't big enough.

It still works as is but it is under stress. I've used it on my E39, E92 and X5 successfully with no issue. On my E92 it hoisted the engine for nearly 3 months as I was doing a turbo and engine overhaul. Yeah, I'll take mine to a welder to extend it a little bit and add a 'lil bit of reinforcement.

Anyone replacing the engine mount and subframe bolts when you do the mounts and drop the FAC?

Fifty150hs, you mention stiffening plate, but do you actually mean the Front Axle Carrier? Or are you talking about the stiffening plate that has to be removed anyway? My question is really regarding FAC and engine mount bolts replacement.

This will be one of the first jobs I do when i finish getting my lift installed :)

WTH? Someone else with a lift?

I am jealous!

I feel like Andrew Dice Clay in "Ford Fairlane" while at the concert wondering if he's the only one who paid full price...[emoji1787][emoji1787]

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To be fair, I've done plenty of work on the dirt and without a shop so last month I had a simple 30x48x12 installed on a 6" slab. I still have to run all the electrical and finish the interior. But we just bolted the lift in last weekend!! A few last steps before it's operational. But i can't wait!
I bought a certified 10k lb lift made by Rotary (sold by Derek Weaver).

Now who really replaces those FAC & mount bolts? :smokin:

Attachment 77241

Attachment 77242

The stiffening plate. I have to pull it to get to the oil level sensor to replace it. Since I have to do that and I have the bad vibration at idle, I figured I'd go ahead and change the engine mounts and front guibo "while I'm in there".

Since the manual only calls for torquing the engine mount bolts to a specified torques, I'll reuse them. They'll get lock tight. The stiffening plate will get new bolts since I found I can get the bolts and nuts for $20 from Belmetrics rather than $150 for OE. No reason not to replace those like the manual says.

I am sooooooo jealous!

Made it home today and my mounts are here. I'm not sure if I will have the energy to jump on it tomorrow as I am still recovering from a week at Daytona. We raced the BMW Endurance Challenge yesterday finished with the win in the TCR class in our Audi RS3. :thumbup:

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Very nice!
Congrats on the win.

Congratulations!

But a real race would be Bahrain to Riyadh with a bottle of Jack and a spiral cut ham on the dash.... just saying [emoji1787][emoji1787]

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BMW just won the GTLM class in the 24 hour! Congrats to BMW and Bobby Rahal. :thumbup:

I posted recently where replacing front driveshaft guibo disc has eliminated my vibration but it's back with vengeance. I'm not 100% convinced that new engine mounts will solve it but I just got mine in today. Now, instead of me moving the M5 from lift (last picture in ad) I need someone here to buy it so I can put my X5 on it.
https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-...ckType=listing

I had jury duty all week and into next week so I have been on hold on replacing my engine mounts. I may get to it Sunday. Tomorrow is installing my new H&R 27mm/21mm sway bars on my E46. :thumbup:

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/attach...1&d=1580432595

Somebody do a nice video of some of the tricky parts. I probably wont get to my engine mounts for another month or 2. but its on my list!

bmw540san, nice M5!

I'll take some pictures and post the steps I take but a video is just something I am not capable of providing.

I was thinking like a quick video showing how/if you support the engine or lower the subframe and how you end up getting the driver side mount out, basically any tricks or tips. But pics work as well!
Sounds like it's not too fun either way.
I'll take a short video and some photos when i do mine as well.

I bought the Harbor Freight engine support bar and will post pictures of that since it is less than long enough to go to the fender seams. 50s Kid showed the Harbor Freight bar going to just inside of the fender seams of our X5's but worked well enough to get the work done replacing the steering rack on his project.

5:10 into this video.

https://youtu.be/aLevezPHueI

I saw that one. Do you know of any other place that sells an engine support bar that is long enough for the e53 (reasonably priced)? I need to pick one up too.

fleaBay has some 3 point support bars that are wide enough but the 3rd support location is just as questionable as the Harbor Freight bar inside the fender seams.

Yeah I see what you mean. Looks like we need a 61-62" bar minimum, and most are 59" or less. The Schwaben looks nice but I wouldn't pay $250 for it!

Yeah, $250 for the Schwaben was a no-go for me too.

Thanks! Selling it with heavy heart but one vehicle has to go and the M5 draws the short end.
I'll do some pictures when I do my mounts. Maybe this weekend.

I have the same bar and I've used it twice in 540 and M5. Thanks for the video. 50's kid is doing the decent video but I wouldn't hammer stuff like he did. I have relatively expensive $240 BMW genuine puller but it saved me a lot of time and effort over the years. It's built like a tank.

I agree but not having the puller, I hit my link receivers the same way with the same hammer he uses. Haven't torn anything up yet but I watch what I am doing and pay attention for avoiding any detrimental results. Always been able to get the links released with a few heavily suggestive impacts. ;)

However, I don't plan on any link removals from the spindle for the engine mount replacement. Everything will stay unless I have to remove the left axle.

I remember having some trouble when i did the front suspension of my e39 M5, the HF puller didn't open up wide enough if I recall and there isn't much room for the LCA. I was scared to bang on wheel carrier like he did.

Looks like the HF engine support is the way to go after all.

I agree. The less we remove the less chance to mess up alignment.

Is there a reason you can't lift the engine with a floor jack underneath when changing the mounts? A block of wood between the jack and the oil pan has always worked great for me other than when I was actually removing the oil pan. In that case, I rigged up a lift that functions like the HF bar using a 2x4, a bed frame side rail (like angle iron - added strength to the 2x4), a bicycle chain lock, and a bolt/nut to mount the chain to the tow hook.

Attachment 77278

AM.

Nice alternative!
But for me at least, I want under the car to be free since I'll be using a lift. For $65 with the 20% coupon for the HF bar, if it works inside the hood seal like 50s kid did, then it's worth it to me. I'll use it again I'm sure.

I think we need to lower the subframe so the plan is to support the engine with the HF engine support bar and lower the subframe with my floorjack. :dunno:

I need to do this job after I do the rear suspension refresh (maybe get to that today?) It sounds like the subframe only needs to be lowered a little bit, so I'll probably try it just using a jack under the oil pan. The control arms will keep the subframe from dropping too far if it's at all like my X3, and it's basically the same design.

AM.

On the other hand here it shows no need to loosen the subframe:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
I was going to attack mine today but I won't have time it seems. This procedure seems less involved but It looks a bit tight to get them out.

Well that looks a lot easier than it probably is but I am just trying to prepare for the worst. That article is also for a M62 so it may be different for a M54 but we will see.

My HF engine support bar came in and a test fit does show it will fit across the front if I only support the support bracket in the front by the vanos and PS reservoir. I looked for one in the rear but isn't very evident where it might be. I wonder if the transmission mounts would support the rear and allow me to simply support the front?

Nice. Good to know it fits. From my reading, I think only the front of the engine needs to be lifted, that support should work. The rear lifting point is back by the bell housing if I recall correctly.

Yeah i think the front lift point is enough for this job. But I'm with you, i would prepare to lower the subframe. Just read the comments in that Pelican article.

So, are you installing new bolts or just the mounts?

And all in. So freaking easy I can't believe I was so nervous about replacing them. The HF support bar works perfect on the 3.0L on the single bracket up front only. In short once the engine is lifted, you need another .25"-.5" additional clearance to get the studs of the mounts clear from the brackets once the mounts are moved out of the pockets on the subframe.

On the right side I just loosened the bracket from the engine and that one came right out. Pull it out towards the front.

On the left side I just loosened the 3 subframe mounting bolts on the left and didn't even touch the 3 on the right side. I flexed the left side down a little with a pry bar and the mount came right out. Pull it out to the rear.

Since the job took 2 hours from raising the X to having it sitting back on new mounts, and the reinforcement plate is out I am going to replace the oil level sensor I ordered previously so off to the auto parts store to get some oil and a filter.

I'll edit the steps in this thread:

• Raise the X and remove front wheels
• Remove fresh air intake housing then air filter housing with MAF and upper intake hose together
• Loosen the fan shroud from the 3 plastic rivets at the top so the fan will not bind on the housing when the engine is lifted
• Remove front lower splash shield
• Remove reinforcement plate
• Remove the 2 bolts and one nut from the right side mount
• Remove the 2 bolts and one nut from the left side mount
• Place HF engine support as pictured
• Start raising engine slowly with a floorjack and wood or rubber pads on the front edge of the oil pan, paying close attention and following with the HF engine support bar. Raise it until axles are just touching the main frame rails
• Loosen the right side engine mount bracket from the engine (I took 3 of the 4 bolts all the way out and loosened the 4th to allow the bracket to pivot)
• Remove mount and replace mount and realign the bracket on to the engine and tighten the bolts back to the engine along with starting the engine mount torx bolts
• Loosen 3 main subframe bolts on the left side, pry the center mount point by the engine mount and remove mount. Replace new mount and get the engine mount torx bolts started
• Tighten subframe bolts back on the left side
• Lower engine back down 5mm at a time checking alignment on the main mount bolts through the brackets
• Engine is now sitting on new mounts
• Tighten the 4 engine mount torx bolts (2 each side) and the main mounting nuts on the mounts. (1 each side)
• Reinstall the lower reinforcement plate and front lower splash shield
• Reinstall fan shroud and air filter housing with MAF and upper intake boot
• Reinstall fresh air intake housing
• Lower X and start it up and have a beer :thumbup:

Thanks for the write up and photos Overboost. You made my work a lot easier. Just so I'm clear, you removed the engine mount brackets from the engine and subframe and made the engine mount swap on the bench? That's what Bentley and Newtis suggest. I was concerned reading that, that it was going to turn into a cluster. If I'm reading you right it's not a big deal?

I have a new oil level sensor to put in as well.

Now the controversial question, reuse or new stiffening plate bolts? =O

I loosened the bracket from engine only on right side. Easily accessible. I did not remove it totally from the engine, only removed 3 of the 4 bolts and loosened the 4th so that it would rotate and clear the stud on the mount to remove and install the mount itself.

Left side engine mount bracket is impossible to loosen or remove because of all the CCV and intake mainifold hoses in that area so lowering the subframe .5" got me what I needed to remove the mount.

It was very easy for me, I can't believe I was dreading this work but from all the other engines, it may not be this easy. 3.0L is a piece of cake, even easier than the E46. :thumbup:

No vacuum lines on the engine mounts? :dunno:

I guess that's a diesel thing then... :thumbup:

Vacuum lines running to the engine mounts??? Post up a picture when you get a chance, I have never heard of that before, ever. What on earth do they do???

Anyway finished up the oil level sensor, oil change and oil filter and took it for a drive. The vibration at idle is completely gone. No more rattles from items in the console or items in the door panel pockets and the feel of the steering wheel is perfect. :thumbup:

And no, I reused the reinforcement plate hardware without a second thought. ;)

The engine mounts on the M57 engines (all models) are vacuum controlled - they can be "hard" or "soft" and are under the control of the DDE via pressure regulators.

From the TIS...

Engine mount control
The controllable engine mounts are switched to ”hard” or ”soft” corresponding to operating conditions.

Function
The pressure converter connects the engine mounts to the vacuum supply. When activated by the DDE master control unit, the pressure converter switches vacuum to the engine mounts which in turn switch to ”soft”.

The engine mounts are activated at:

- low speeds (under around 60 km/h) and
- below engine speeds that are dependent on the coolant temperature (the engine speeds are between 1000 rpm and 1200 rpm)

Troubleshooting
If a defect occurs in the activation of the pressure converter, a fault is stored.

The engine mount control is switched off if one of the following faults occurs:

- ”Driving speed signal”
- ”Coolant-temperature sensor”

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pr...-eQ1KPZyCLP1Ig

Never, ever heard of that before. Learn something everyday! :thumbup:

Wow, well done! It certainly wasn't that easy on my 4.4 N62. I recall it as something I never want to do again.

Ditto that!

Yeah, well, trust BMW to take something as (seemingly) simple as an engine mount and complicate it! :rolleyes:

Still, I'm sure it is in part why these M57 diesel engines are so civilised. :thumbup:

Hi folks,

I know this is an old thread, but rather than starting a new one, I'm wondering if anybody has experience doing engine mounts on an E53 diesel (facelift version, if that makes a difference)?

I've done a heap of searching and found a few videos, but none cover the M57 engine.

I'd like to replace both mounts, but I especially need to replace the RH mount on a RH drive vehicle.
I've managed to get the mount free by undoing the 16mm nut on top and the two E12 bolts, but after raising the engine as far as it will go, I still can't get enough clearance to remove the mount.

I was considering undoing the bracket that bolts to the engine, but the front two bolts are impossible to get to.

Does anybody know if undoing the frame bolts on one side will provide enough room, or does the entire frame need to be dropped?

Many thanks!

I have done both mounts on my V8 and I can confirm that the subframe has to be lowered. I would imagine it's easier on the 6 cylinder engine.
It's not difficult, just a bit tricky using a car jack to hold the engine up. I didn't have a brace.
I actually did mine twice.. The first mounts I installed were ebay special and the vibration was worse than the old ones. So I put them back on..
I my case the vibration turned out to be the AC compressor so I would check all the ancillary spinning components first.
I also installed some tough rubber gaskets between the mounts and subframe to further reduce NVH.

I don't have a diesel, I have a 3.0 and I did not need to lower the subframe. the engine can be raised a little and with d=some maneuvering the mounts will come out and go in. IIRC I had to remove one mount arm from the engine, but that wasn't a big deal. You'll need the HF engine support.