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-   -   Heater Control Valve 4.8is Cabin Temperature (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/111438-heater-control-valve-4-8is-cabin-temperature.html)

crystalworks 01-26-2020 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X5M-ISH (Post 1176538)
Oh my god, recirculation mode was on. Just kidding, it's off. The diverter flap, where is this located?

What is this IHKA and where is it located?

Plenty of coolant, new cap and properly bled with the temp setting on high, blower low and all that good stuff.

Keep me posted in what you find!

For max heat you'll want the recirc on to keep reheating cabin air. Otherwise the truck is trying to heat cold outside air.

The IHKA is the climate control unit on the dash. BMW name for it is IHKA.

Not sure where the fresh air door/flap is, I'll see if I can find it on a diagram.

Thermostat sounds plausible as andrew said.

wpoll 01-26-2020 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crystalworks (Post 1176586)
For max heat you'll want the recirc on to keep reheating cabin air. Otherwise the truck is trying to heat cold outside air.

...

While using recirculation in connection with heating will increase the cabin temp, this can result in fogging of the windows due to trapped moisture.

The heater is normally capable of heating outside air to a comfortable temp as it enters the cabin - in this case it sounds like it cannot. Blocked heater core? :dunno:

Effduration 01-26-2020 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1176578)
What was the ambient temp outside when having the issue? A very common cause is a stuck open thermostat.

The dial on the dash looks like but is not a gauge. It’s more of a 3 position idiot light. Pull up the actual engine temp with the hidden menu (I think it’s 9 ) and confirm the temp gets to and stays close to 90 c. (Might be slightly different on the 8, I have the 6).

Hidden Temp on cluster is test 7 (7a I think)

And I think the 6 cyl should read closer to 96-98 degrees celsius. At least mine do (2 X5's 2 E39', & 1 E46)

X5M-ISH 01-27-2020 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1176556)
A good test for the sampling fan is with the controls on auto...

As the cabin temp when tested was warmer than the outside ambient temp, setting this IHKA to auto and lowering the temp caused the blower to increase and inversely, increasing the temp above outside ambient temp caused the blower to decrease. I did one temp increment at a time and waited for the blower to adjust (which was rather quick).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gregory891 (Post 1176566)
What fault codes do you have?

No fault codes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1176578)
What was the ambient temp outside when having the issue? A very common cause is a stuck open thermostat.

Since this winter, fall temperatures down to a few degrees below freezing. I monitored the coolant temps in real time using INPA and the temp is within specs.

Quote:

Originally Posted by crystalworks (Post 1176586)
For max heat you'll want the recirc on to keep reheating cabin air. Otherwise the truck is trying to heat cold outside air.

I had to turn that option off due to excessive moisture. Coupled with the lack of heat, the front windows never defog. Yesterday I pulled this IHKA unit to inspect the small fan on the backside. While it was absolutely quiet as it spun around its axis, there is a slight wobble to it. Maybe a deflection of about a mm. There is dust build up but nothing crazy. Preemptively, I sprayed the unit out with condensed air and I am heading to the mountains tonight and will try again with heat at the front.

andrewwynn 01-27-2020 05:18 PM

If you need to use recirc heat to get cabin warm your heater is broken. I’ve driven at -10F=-23.333 c with no problem maintaining 73f=23c also you will cause horrible fogging problems in winter. Recirc is only meant for bursts similar to a jet will used afterburner.

Can you read the status of the heater valves and heater cores?

It has a feeling of a stuck control vane, so find out if the heater cores are brought to a proper temp

wpoll 01-27-2020 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1176668)
If you need to use recirc heat to get cabin warm your heater is broken. I’ve driven at -10F=-23.333 c with no problem maintaining 73f=23c also you will cause horrible fogging problems in winter. Recirc is only meant for bursts similar to a jet will used afterburner.

Can you read the status of the heater valves and heater cores?

It has a feeling of a stuck control vane, so find out if the heater cores are brought to a proper temp

I use recirc continuously - but only when I use A/C - no point in cooling outside air all the time. Recirc can be used to reduce humidity, even win winter but you need the A/C on to do this.

+1 on the heater core check - a blocked heater core would behave like this....

crystalworks 01-27-2020 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1176668)
If you need to use recirc heat to get cabin warm your heater is broken. I’ve driven at -10F=-23.333 c with no problem maintaining 73f=23c also you will cause horrible fogging problems in winter. Recirc is only meant for bursts similar to a jet will used afterburner.

My family likes it considerably warmer than that in the winter. More like 85f. :D

And yes, can confirm, does cause fogging. We just blast the defogger for 10 seconds and that clears it all up.

Clavurion 01-27-2020 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wpoll (Post 1176669)
I use recirc continuously - but only when I use A/C - no point in cooling outside air all the time. Recirc can be used to reduce humidity, even win winter but you need the A/C on to do this.

Of course this would not work when temp is below +3 C and AC won't engage.

X5M-ISH 01-27-2020 07:14 PM

Okay okay...progress. I put the IHKA back in the dash. Now the passenger side is is toasty and matches the rear output however the driver side vents are still luke warm! Haha! This is consistent with the window, center and floor vents on the driver side.

andrewwynn 01-27-2020 07:20 PM

Soo you need to figure out if the heater core driver side is getting hot then you'll know if the problem is a stuck flapper or a stuck heater valve


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