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Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement
Anybody know if it is possible to replace the ball joints in the control arms? I am going to replace the bushings with poly, but that leaves the ball joints to eventually fail. The arms themselves don't wear out, so I'm thinking if it is possible to purchase replacement ball joints somewhere and press out the old and in the new, that might save some bucks.
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Which control arms you are talking about? Front tension strut has a separate ball joint as is but on other parts it's virtually impossible to renew the ball joints without factory tools and good quality parts are not available separately.
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On the arms I've replaced it was the ball joint that failed usually from the seal failing. Keep them supple with the magic transmission additive I forget the name but I have a bottle I'll look when I pass it next time.
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When I did the whole front end last summer I used these guys for their pressed in metal bushings on their control arms. Recommended by a friend who is an SCCA instructor and X5 enthusiast https://mooseheadengineering.com/#!/...egory=13660412
If you're going to go through the trouble to pretty much disassemble the ball joints, then go all-in so you know that every bushing is fresh. |
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It's not easy...but I replaced my rear control arm ball joints. Definitely was needed after 186k miles. I also did the front control arm ball joints too. Tho...there's not that much rust here in the PNW.
I used this tool: https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ece/449947_0_0 If you get a "loaner tool" with an arbor that is slightly bent...it makes everything difficult. Anyway...there's a trick to it. I will say that freezing the new ball joint def helps with installation. |
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Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement
Freeze old to remove could help also.
Steel changes size 1% per 100°F approximately so heat the outer part to 250F or so and cool the inner part to -15°F (use R134a aka canned duster). I've measured 0.003" (0.08mm) difference in my front bearings. Don't make the goof of freezing rear bearings on X5: oops they are bolt on but press over the hub: cold makes them tighter. I made a kit from an R134a can valve and a shop air duster to apply cold to things. Originally so I could freeze a water pipe to change a valve downstream. I've done that a couple times. I've used dry ice to cool a hub to remove from my front bearing but now I just needed up my bearing press to 31T capability no longer need to use heat and cold. |
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This is what I bought: |
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https://3a663eb0fef48c6d2d60-a88f8eb...79106_x600.jpg ...but it's gone a little off track due to unclear terminology around the various arms... ;) |
WTF Need clarification
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This will make the conversation MUCH easier as everyone will actually know what the hell they are specifically discussing.:dunno:
FRONT Suspension Parts REAR Suspension Parts The Front Suspension has multiple "Ball Joints" some are attached to the arms, others are separate parts. The front also has BUSHINGS that are part of two arms. The REAR Suspension has a BIG Ball Joint on the LOWER part of the hub/wheel Carrier that attaches to the lower swing arm and all X5s has few little ones in the UPPER arms that are part of the control arms (entire arm is REPLACEABLE) See Images below for details. Now that we are shop class 101, point to the image and give us the number of said part that you are all replacing....:thumbup: |
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My question is/was if anyone has replaced the ball joints that come IN the control arms. I hope that makes it clearer. Sorry for any confusion. |
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Item #6 in the rear suspension forward control arm (Upper Guide Link) has a small swivel joint (ball shaped) that only comes with the arm. Their average life span is 100K, so one replacement in 200K for the 3.0 applications, longer than most owners' ownership. In the large V8 they last approx 60K depending on driver and road conditions.
Unless your needs are such and you plan on HEAVY modifications, it works as designed. The next question just for curiosity, Why would you want to? What performance, adjustment advantage are you seeking? There was a company that made adjustable length units many years ago. Are they still around? Who knows. Use the search function on this site to find the postings. |
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Adjustable are still available from Hardrace: https://hardraceusa.com/collections/x5-e53-2000-2006 |
Well I was certainly confused on the question. Thanks @stephenVA for the diagram. I guess I was under the notion it was the rear ball joint that nobody ever replaces because it is so difficult because the BMW specific tool is def needed--just maybe not required.
At any rate, the "ball joints" that are in the "control arms" are usually sub assemblies that are non-serviceable. But I do think there is a way to service the rubber bushings in them sometimes. |
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BTW, everyone, please note that diagrams are great, part numbers great too (for google purposes so others can find your great info months or years down the road), and also that "rear suspension forward control arm" is far clearer than something like "rear front control arm" See the difference? Also many of these arms have their own special names, such as the "guide link" there. BTW, my guide links are still truckin' along at 192+k miles. Carry on. |
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I think adjustable rear suspension upper control arms are way more costly and less permanent than just getting proper rear suspension control arm bushings. In addition, using the upper control arm adjustments changes the offset more than making the proper corrections on the lower control arm for the rear suspension. This might pose problems for wheel offset and fender alignment. This was my ultimate deciding factor for not choosing to go with the rear suspension upper control arm correction solution. Using a poly bushing type in the rear suspension lower control arm is more of a permanent solution as opposed to the upper control arms in my opinion. As a side note, I've always been curious if these have been compatible with E53 rear suspension control arms: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ings-spc-72185 They are definitely more affordable if you're wanting the adjustability. And the E53 rear suspension is borrowed much of the other platforms that are listed in the compatibility tables for them. I dunno...but I wasn't willing to take the chance. |
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I will replace the rubber bushings with poly bushings. I will now have what amounts to a "lifetime" bushing. That bushing will be mounted in lifetime piece of metal, let's use the guide link. So the guide link and bushing are now lifetime, but the ball joint is not. I'm not aware of any ball joints being made that are "lifetime". If they do, I'd love to know about them. So, we have a lifetime bushing and lifetime link and ball joint that will wear out. My goal is to be able to keep a perfectly serviceable guide link and bushing and put a new ball joint into it instead of buy the alternative. The alternative being buying a new guide link assembly, pressing out the rubber bushing, installing my poly bushing from my old guide link which now has a failed ball joint and throwing away a perfectly serviceable guide link. If the ball joint can be replaced, then the only thing I will ever have to replace in the future is the ball joint. Is that making more sense? |
I can do some destuctive testing on my old arms when I replace them. I will be ordering a new pair from fcpeuro when/if the PUA ever comes though from my self unemployment. (all my customers are either IL or WI so works been a little light since Mar 17/25.
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Maybe for pros it makes more sense though. |
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Found some bad news. This is a quote from a company that MAKES special bushing for the other side of control arms:
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When the ball joint at the wheel end of the arm is used up, the Moosehead UCAB can be easily pressed out of the control arm and pressed back into a replacement arm,The ball itself could be removed and replaced but are you going to get the next bigger ball? I found examples with the aluminum arms where the ball joint can be pressed out for replacement but all signs are the wheel end is a permanent fix. Let us know if your find out otherwise and I'll cut mine in half maybe right though the middle of the ball for a post mortem that will answer at least is it possible. (eg if the steel is Forged around the ball joint forget it). My estimate is they made a trade off of size to make the end smaller made it staked on vs a pressed into solution. I'm aiming for within a month to replace my arms with meyleHD as an upgrade to the stock arms (due to my proclivities of driving over curbs regularly). |
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I replaced the front lower control arms. Since they are now "spares" for warranty return, I tried to take one of the ball joints apart to see if they are pressed in. They are not. I pulled the boot off and it became obvious how the joints on these particular arms are constructed. (see photos) The side of the control arm where the ball joint arm extends is machined, the ball joint inserted into the opposite side and then it is capped and the cap is staked or crimped in place. No swapping these ball joints.
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I've never done this...Check for snap ring on top.
Removed epoxy or glue...and years of gunk. Let us know how you go. |
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It's as I suspected I still may saw mine in half right through the ball joint top to bottom to confirm 100%.
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