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Fifty150hs 05-05-2020 03:01 PM

Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement
 
Anybody know if it is possible to replace the ball joints in the control arms? I am going to replace the bushings with poly, but that leaves the ball joints to eventually fail. The arms themselves don't wear out, so I'm thinking if it is possible to purchase replacement ball joints somewhere and press out the old and in the new, that might save some bucks.

Clavurion 05-05-2020 05:26 PM

Which control arms you are talking about? Front tension strut has a separate ball joint as is but on other parts it's virtually impossible to renew the ball joints without factory tools and good quality parts are not available separately.

Fifty150hs 05-05-2020 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clavurion (Post 1182892)
Which control arms you are talking about? Front tension strut has a separate ball joint as is but on other parts it's virtually impossible to renew the ball joints without factory tools and good quality parts are not available separately.

Front lower control arms and rear control arms.

Clavurion 05-05-2020 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs (Post 1182893)
Front lower control arms and rear control arms.

I would say that better to forget renewing those ball joints separately.

Fifty150hs 05-05-2020 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clavurion (Post 1182895)
I would say that better to forget renewing those ball joints separately.

I figured as much, but thought I'd ask. There's a lot of experience on these forums. Thought maybe someone might have tried it. Thanks for your response!

andrewwynn 05-05-2020 08:22 PM

On the arms I've replaced it was the ball joint that failed usually from the seal failing. Keep them supple with the magic transmission additive I forget the name but I have a bottle I'll look when I pass it next time.

X5M-ISH 05-05-2020 08:32 PM

When I did the whole front end last summer I used these guys for their pressed in metal bushings on their control arms. Recommended by a friend who is an SCCA instructor and X5 enthusiast https://mooseheadengineering.com/#!/...egory=13660412


If you're going to go through the trouble to pretty much disassemble the ball joints, then go all-in so you know that every bushing is fresh.

Clavurion 05-05-2020 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1182906)
On the arms I've replaced it was the ball joint that failed usually from the seal failing. Keep them supple with the magic transmission additive I forget the name but I have a bottle I'll look when I pass it next time.

Any silicon based grease should do the trick. I've used ATE brake cylinder paste for every rubber part like dust seals and o-rings (mainly on the coolant system, makes it easy to install too). If you replace any of the original Lemförder parts the dust seals are usually still intact, so take them aside just in case.

Fifty150hs 05-05-2020 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by X5M-ISH (Post 1182909)
When I did the whole front end last summer I used these guys for their pressed in metal bushings on their control arms. Recommended by a friend who is an SCCA instructor and X5 enthusiast https://mooseheadengineering.com/#!/...egory=13660412


If you're going to go through the trouble to pretty much disassemble the ball joints, then go all-in so you know that every bushing is fresh.

The bushings will be fresh. They'll be poly. The poly bushings have a lifetime warranty so even if they do wear out at some point they get replaced for free. That's why I 'm looking for a way to replace the ball joints.

RocketyMan 05-05-2020 10:55 PM

It's not easy...but I replaced my rear control arm ball joints. Definitely was needed after 186k miles. I also did the front control arm ball joints too. Tho...there's not that much rust here in the PNW.

I used this tool: https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ece/449947_0_0

If you get a "loaner tool" with an arbor that is slightly bent...it makes everything difficult. Anyway...there's a trick to it. I will say that freezing the new ball joint def helps with installation.

Fifty150hs 05-05-2020 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RocketyMan (Post 1182917)
It's not easy...but I replaced my rear control arm ball joints. Definitely was needed after 186k miles. I also did the front control arm ball joints too. Tho...there's not that much rust here in the PNW.

I used this tool: https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...ece/449947_0_0

If you get a "loaner tool" with an arbor that is slightly bent...it makes everything difficult. Anyway...there's a trick to it. I will say that freezing the new ball joint def helps with installation.

No rust here in California either. Where did you source the ball joints?

andrewwynn 05-05-2020 11:48 PM

Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement
 
Freeze old to remove could help also.

Steel changes size 1% per 100°F approximately so heat the outer part to 250F or so and cool the inner part to -15°F (use R134a aka canned duster).

I've measured 0.003" (0.08mm) difference in my front bearings.

Don't make the goof of freezing rear bearings on X5: oops they are bolt on but press over the hub: cold makes them tighter.

I made a kit from an R134a can valve and a shop air duster to apply cold to things. Originally so I could freeze a water pipe to change a valve downstream. I've done that a couple times.

I've used dry ice to cool a hub to remove from my front bearing but now I just needed up my bearing press to 31T capability no longer need to use heat and cold.

RocketyMan 05-06-2020 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs (Post 1182919)
No rust here in California either. Where did you source the ball joints?

I got Delphi branded ball joints. Got them from rockauto. I can't remember how much I paid...def not the cheapest and decided to go with something name brand.

Fifty150hs 05-06-2020 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RocketyMan (Post 1182996)
I got Delphi branded ball joints. Got them from rockauto. I can't remember how much I paid...def not the cheapest and decided to go with something name brand.

Thanks. Were they specified as being for the BMW control arms or are they sold by size?

RocketyMan 05-07-2020 12:36 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs (Post 1182997)
Thanks. Were they specified as being for the BMW control arms or are they sold by size?

I'm not sure I exactly understand your question. They're the rear lower ball joint. Rockauto has these in a weird spot for some reason.

This is what I bought:

wpoll 05-07-2020 03:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RocketyMan (Post 1182999)
I'm not sure I exactly understand your question. They're the rear lower ball joint. Rockauto has these in a weird spot for some reason.

This is what I bought:

This discussion started off being about the lower rear FRONT arm ball joint...

https://3a663eb0fef48c6d2d60-a88f8eb...79106_x600.jpg

...but it's gone a little off track due to unclear terminology around the various arms... ;)

StephenVA 05-07-2020 07:31 AM

WTF Need clarification
 
2 Attachment(s)
This will make the conversation MUCH easier as everyone will actually know what the hell they are specifically discussing.:dunno:
FRONT Suspension Parts
REAR Suspension Parts
The Front Suspension has multiple "Ball Joints" some are attached to the arms, others are separate parts. The front also has BUSHINGS that are part of two arms.
The REAR Suspension has a BIG Ball Joint on the LOWER part of the hub/wheel Carrier that attaches to the lower swing arm and all X5s has few little ones in the UPPER arms that are part of the control arms (entire arm is REPLACEABLE) See Images below for details.

Now that we are shop class 101, point to the image and give us the number of said part that you are all replacing....:thumbup:

Fifty150hs 05-07-2020 10:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StephenVA (Post 1183003)
This will make the conversation MUCH easier as everyone will actually know what the hell they are specifically discussing.:dunno:
FRONT Suspension Parts
REAR Suspension Parts
The Front Suspension has multiple "Ball Joints" some are attached to the arms, others are separate parts. The front also has BUSHINGS that are part of two arms.
The REAR Suspension has a BIG Ball Joint on the LOWER part of the hub/wheel Carrier that attaches to the lower swing arm and all X5s has few little ones in the UPPER arms that are part of the control arms (entire arm is REPLACEABLE) See Images below for details.

Now that we are shop class 101, point to the image and give us the number of said part that you are all replacing....:thumbup:

I am talking specifically about the ball joints located IN the front lower control arms, the rear front control arm and the rear, rear control arm (sometimes called the wishbone). These control arms come with the ball joints installed IN them. For example, the ball joint in item 6 in your diagram. I am NOT talking about the ball joint that mounts to the steering knuckle or the ball joint that goes in the rear wheel carrier. The ball joints IN the control arms I'm asking about do not show as separate parts on RealOEM.

My question is/was if anyone has replaced the ball joints that come IN the control arms.

I hope that makes it clearer. Sorry for any confusion.

StephenVA 05-07-2020 11:18 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Item #6 in the rear suspension forward control arm (Upper Guide Link) has a small swivel joint (ball shaped) that only comes with the arm. Their average life span is 100K, so one replacement in 200K for the 3.0 applications, longer than most owners' ownership. In the large V8 they last approx 60K depending on driver and road conditions.

Unless your needs are such and you plan on HEAVY modifications, it works as designed.

The next question just for curiosity, Why would you want to? What performance, adjustment advantage are you seeking?

There was a company that made adjustable length units many years ago. Are they still around? Who knows. Use the search function on this site to find the postings.

Fifty150hs 05-07-2020 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StephenVA (Post 1183009)
Item #6 in the rear suspension forward control arm (Upper Guide Link) has a small swivel joint (ball shaped) that only comes with the arm. Their average life span is 100K, so one replacement in 200K for the 3.0 applications, longer than most owners' ownership. In the large V8 they last approx 60K depending on driver and road conditions.

Unless your needs are such and you plan on HEAVY modifications, it works as designed.

The next question just for curiosity, Why would you want to? What performance, adjustment advantage are you seeking?

There was a company that made adjustable length units many years ago. Are they still around? Who knows. Use the search function on this site to find the postings.

I'm interested because I will be changing the bushing to poly which is essentially a lifetime bushing. So the ball joint is likely to wear out before the poly if the poly ever does. The existing arms have about 60,000 miles on them, so they've got maybe 40,000 miles left in them. I have 250,000 miles on this truck and I am shooting for 350,000. That means those ball joints will need to be replaced sometime before I ever have to replace the bushing. Since the arms themselves are essentially a lifetime part and a poly bushing is a lifetime part I'm curious to know if it is possible to replace the one piece of the arm assembly that's not lifetime. Especially since if the ball joint can't be replaced I will need to order a complete new arm, press out the rubber bushing to install poly and throw away the rubber bushing. Along with throwing away a perfectly good control arm that comes off with the worn out ball joint. Make sense?

Adjustable are still available from Hardrace: https://hardraceusa.com/collections/x5-e53-2000-2006

RocketyMan 05-07-2020 01:14 PM

Well I was certainly confused on the question. Thanks @stephenVA for the diagram. I guess I was under the notion it was the rear ball joint that nobody ever replaces because it is so difficult because the BMW specific tool is def needed--just maybe not required.

At any rate, the "ball joints" that are in the "control arms" are usually sub assemblies that are non-serviceable. But I do think there is a way to service the rubber bushings in them sometimes.

oldskewel 05-07-2020 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StephenVA (Post 1183009)
... rear suspension forward control arm ...

Thanks for speaking up for some clarification. :thumbup: I actually typed in a much shorter, similar request that would have been post #2, but decided to delete it.

BTW, everyone, please note that diagrams are great, part numbers great too (for google purposes so others can find your great info months or years down the road), and also that

"rear suspension forward control arm" is far clearer than something like
"rear front control arm"

See the difference?

Also many of these arms have their own special names, such as the "guide link" there. BTW, my guide links are still truckin' along at 192+k miles.

Carry on.

RocketyMan 05-07-2020 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldskewel (Post 1183017)
Thanks for speaking up for some clarification. :thumbup: I actually typed in a much shorter, similar request that would have been post #2, but decided to delete it.

BTW, everyone, please note that diagrams are great, part numbers great too (for google purposes so others can find your great info months or years down the road), and also that

"rear suspension forward control arm" is far clearer than something like
"rear front control arm"

See the difference?

Also many of these arms have their own special names, such as the "guide link" there. BTW, my guide links are still truckin' along at 192+k miles.

Carry on.

Agreed on the nomenclature. This definitely helps! I still feel a little bit nebulous on what the OP goal is exactly. I've done pretty much everything suspension related on my SAV with the exception of a couple suspension components.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs (Post 1183013)
I'm interested because I will be changing the bushing to poly which is essentially a lifetime bushing. So the ball joint is likely to wear out before the poly if the poly ever does. The existing arms have about 60,000 miles on them, so they've got maybe 40,000 miles left in them. I have 250,000 miles on this truck and I am shooting for 350,000. That means those ball joints will need to be replaced sometime before I ever have to replace the bushing. Since the arms themselves are essentially a lifetime part and a poly bushing is a lifetime part I'm curious to know if it is possible to replace the one piece of the arm assembly that's not lifetime. Especially since if the ball joint can't be replaced I will need to order a complete new arm, press out the rubber bushing to install poly and throw away the rubber bushing. Along with throwing away a perfectly good control arm that comes off with the worn out ball joint. Make sense?

Adjustable are still available from Hardrace: https://hardraceusa.com/collections/x5-e53-2000-2006

From your link, those are the REAR suspension upper control arms. Between the two, they are forward and rearward. From my experience, it's not the bushings that go out in those control arms, it's the integrated joint. Back to what stephVA was inquiring about is, what is your goal? Are you wanting specific wheel alignment?

I think adjustable rear suspension upper control arms are way more costly and less permanent than just getting proper rear suspension control arm bushings. In addition, using the upper control arm adjustments changes the offset more than making the proper corrections on the lower control arm for the rear suspension. This might pose problems for wheel offset and fender alignment. This was my ultimate deciding factor for not choosing to go with the rear suspension upper control arm correction solution. Using a poly bushing type in the rear suspension lower control arm is more of a permanent solution as opposed to the upper control arms in my opinion.

As a side note, I've always been curious if these have been compatible with E53 rear suspension control arms: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ings-spc-72185

They are definitely more affordable if you're wanting the adjustability. And the E53 rear suspension is borrowed much of the other platforms that are listed in the compatibility tables for them. I dunno...but I wasn't willing to take the chance.

andrewwynn 05-07-2020 01:48 PM

https://youtu.be/E-76vbQbodY

This is the idea just need to find the correct tool and part.

Fifty150hs 05-07-2020 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RocketyMan (Post 1183018)
Agreed on the nomenclature. This definitely helps! I still feel a little bit nebulous on what the OP goal is exactly. I've done pretty much everything suspension related on my SAV with the exception of a couple suspension components.



From your link, those are the REAR suspension upper control arms. Between the two, they are forward and rearward. From my experience, it's not the bushings that go out in those control arms, it's the integrated joint. Back to what stephVA was inquiring about is, what is your goal? Are you wanting specific wheel alignment?

I think adjustable rear suspension upper control arms are way more costly and less permanent than just getting proper rear suspension control arm bushings. In addition, using the upper control arm adjustments changes the offset more than making the proper corrections on the lower control arm for the rear suspension. This might pose problems for wheel offset and fender alignment. This was my ultimate deciding factor for not choosing to go with the rear suspension upper control arm correction solution. Using a poly bushing type in the rear suspension lower control arm is more of a permanent solution as opposed to the upper control arms in my opinion.

As a side note, I've always been curious if these have been compatible with E53 rear suspension control arms: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ings-spc-72185

They are definitely more affordable if you're wanting the adjustability. And the E53 rear suspension is borrowed much of the other platforms that are listed in the compatibility tables for them. I dunno...but I wasn't willing to take the chance.

MY ultimate goal is not adjust ability. If it was I'd buy the Hardrace units and be done with it. The goal is to not be throwing away serviceable parts.

I will replace the rubber bushings with poly bushings. I will now have what amounts to a "lifetime" bushing. That bushing will be mounted in lifetime piece of metal, let's use the guide link. So the guide link and bushing are now lifetime, but the ball joint is not. I'm not aware of any ball joints being made that are "lifetime". If they do, I'd love to know about them. So, we have a lifetime bushing and lifetime link and ball joint that will wear out. My goal is to be able to keep a perfectly serviceable guide link and bushing and put a new ball joint into it instead of buy the alternative.

The alternative being buying a new guide link assembly, pressing out the rubber bushing, installing my poly bushing from my old guide link which now has a failed ball joint and throwing away a perfectly serviceable guide link. If the ball joint can be replaced, then the only thing I will ever have to replace in the future is the ball joint.

Is that making more sense?

andrewwynn 05-07-2020 01:53 PM

I can do some destuctive testing on my old arms when I replace them. I will be ordering a new pair from fcpeuro when/if the PUA ever comes though from my self unemployment. (all my customers are either IL or WI so works been a little light since Mar 17/25.

Fifty150hs 05-07-2020 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1183020)
https://youtu.be/E-76vbQbodY

This is the idea just need to find the correct tool and part.

THAT'S what I'm talking about!

Fifty150hs 05-07-2020 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1183023)
I can do some destuctive testing on my old arms when I replace them. I will be ordering a new pair from fcpeuro when/if the PUA ever comes though from my self unemployment. (all my customers are either IL or WI so works been a little light since Mar 17/25.

That's great! I'd love to know how it works!

crystalworks 05-07-2020 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1183020)
https://youtu.be/E-76vbQbodY

This is the idea just need to find the correct tool and part.

That's cool. I like the idea of saving the arm itself. But for what that tool probably costs and the amount of storage space it takes up, I'd buy new arms with the 2 ball joints every 100k miles. :dunno:

Maybe for pros it makes more sense though.

Fifty150hs 05-07-2020 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crystalworks (Post 1183027)
That's cool. I like the idea of saving the arm itself. But for what that tool probably costs and the amount of storage space it takes up, I'd buy new arms with the 2 ball joints every 100k miles. :dunno:

Maybe for pros it makes more sense though.

There are lots of ball joint presses out there on ebay for not much money. Guessing there might be something that works for not too much money. Hell, one of the presses I already have may work.

RocketyMan 05-07-2020 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs (Post 1183021)
MY ultimate goal is not adjust ability. If it was I'd buy the Hardrace units and be done with it. The goal is to not be throwing away serviceable parts.

I will replace the rubber bushings with poly bushings. I will now have what amounts to a "lifetime" bushing. That bushing will be mounted in lifetime piece of metal, let's use the guide link. So the guide link and bushing are now lifetime, but the ball joint is not. I'm not aware of any ball joints being made that are "lifetime". If they do, I'd love to know about them. So, we have a lifetime bushing and lifetime link and ball joint that will wear out. My goal is to be able to keep a perfectly serviceable guide link and bushing and put a new ball joint into it instead of buy the alternative.

The alternative being buying a new guide link assembly, pressing out the rubber bushing, installing my poly bushing from my old guide link which now has a failed ball joint and throwing away a perfectly serviceable guide link. If the ball joint can be replaced, then the only thing I will ever have to replace in the future is the ball joint.

Is that making more sense?

Oh I COMPLETELY agree to minimize throwing away serviceable parts. My most recent part I serviced a bushing in was the front suspension thrust rod. I ended up saving money because the bushing only costed $13 bux or so...while a whole new unit I think is around $40. It only took me about an hr for both.

crystalworks 05-07-2020 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs (Post 1183029)
There are lots of ball joint presses out there on ebay for not much money. Guessing there might be something that works for not too much money. Hell, one of the presses I already have may work.

Maybe I'll take a look. I don't currently have a press, though I have been wanting one to install bushings in lower control arm "lollipops" like the one on the E46 in the video. Finding a local shop to press bushings for me (at a realistic price) has been a challenge in the past. I'm sure it will have other uses as well.

Fifty150hs 05-07-2020 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crystalworks (Post 1183032)
Maybe I'll take a look. I don't currently have a press, though I have been wanting one to install bushings in lower control arm "lollipops" like the one on the E46 in the video. Finding a local shop to press bushings for me (at a realistic price) has been a challenge in the past. I'm sure it will have other uses as well.

Then the challenge becomes how and where to order the ball joints. Meyle maybe?

andrewwynn 05-07-2020 03:28 PM

Found some bad news. This is a quote from a company that MAKES special bushing for the other side of control arms:

Code:

When the ball joint at the wheel end of the arm is used up, the Moosehead UCAB can be easily pressed out of the control arm and pressed back into a replacement arm,
If a company that builds bearings for control arms moves their bushing to a new arm when the wheel side ball joint wears out it's not looking good for your prospect. Also when watching a video of meyleHD control arm fabrication they used the term "flanged" describing how the ball joint end is added this sounds like the steel of the arm is forged around the ball joint making it one with the end and not a part that can be removed and replaced.

The ball itself could be removed and replaced but are you going to get the next bigger ball?

I found examples with the aluminum arms where the ball joint can be pressed out for replacement but all signs are the wheel end is a permanent fix. Let us know if your find out otherwise and I'll cut mine in half maybe right though the middle of the ball for a post mortem that will answer at least is it possible. (eg if the steel is Forged around the ball joint forget it). My estimate is they made a trade off of size to make the end smaller made it staked on vs a pressed into solution.

I'm aiming for within a month to replace my arms with meyleHD as an upgrade to the stock arms (due to my proclivities of driving over curbs regularly).

Fifty150hs 05-20-2020 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1183035)
Found some bad news. This is a quote from a company that MAKES special bushing for the other side of control arms:

Code:

When the ball joint at the wheel end of the arm is used up, the Moosehead UCAB can be easily pressed out of the control arm and pressed back into a replacement arm,
If a company that builds bearings for control arms moves their bushing to a new arm when the wheel side ball joint wears out it's not looking good for your prospect. Also when watching a video of meyleHD control arm fabrication they used the term "flanged" describing how the ball joint end is added this sounds like the steel of the arm is forged around the ball joint making it one with the end and not a part that can be removed and replaced.

The ball itself could be removed and replaced but are you going to get the next bigger ball?

I found examples with the aluminum arms where the ball joint can be pressed out for replacement but all signs are the wheel end is a permanent fix. Let us know if your find out otherwise and I'll cut mine in half maybe right though the middle of the ball for a post mortem that will answer at least is it possible. (eg if the steel is Forged around the ball joint forget it). My estimate is they made a trade off of size to make the end smaller made it staked on vs a pressed into solution.

I'm aiming for within a month to replace my arms with meyleHD as an upgrade to the stock arms (due to my proclivities of driving over curbs regularly).

I replaced the bushings on my guide links this past weekend. I looked closely at the ball joints and they appear to have been pressed in. Hard to tell for sure, but it doesn't look like they were staked on the bolt end of the ball. I didn't screw with them since I wasn't replacing the whole arm. I will be replacing the front lower control arms this weekend and will have those to mess with to see how those are built. If the ball joints look like they are pressed in I'll see if I can press one out. If I can then it's trying to figure out where to procure a replacement.

Fifty150hs 05-31-2020 10:35 PM

3 Attachment(s)
I replaced the front lower control arms. Since they are now "spares" for warranty return, I tried to take one of the ball joints apart to see if they are pressed in. They are not. I pulled the boot off and it became obvious how the joints on these particular arms are constructed. (see photos) The side of the control arm where the ball joint arm extends is machined, the ball joint inserted into the opposite side and then it is capped and the cap is staked or crimped in place. No swapping these ball joints.

jopecasa 05-31-2020 11:37 PM

I've never done this...Check for snap ring on top.

Removed epoxy or glue...and years of gunk.

Let us know how you go.

Fifty150hs 05-31-2020 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jopecasa (Post 1185155)
I've never done this...Check for snap ring on top.

Removed epoxy or glue...and years of gunk.

Let us know how you go.

No snap ring that I can see.

andrewwynn 05-31-2020 11:54 PM

It's as I suspected I still may saw mine in half right through the ball joint top to bottom to confirm 100%.

Fifty150hs 05-31-2020 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andrewwynn (Post 1185157)
It's as I suspected I still may saw mine in half right through the ball joint top to bottom to confirm 100%.

I'd love to see the results if you do.

jopecasa 06-01-2020 12:01 AM

This might help....


http://www.944online.com/images/ianf...t/IMG_1758.JPG


http://www.944online.com/images/ianf...t/IMG_1779.JPG


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