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-   -   Vibration at stop. What? (https://xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-forums/x5-e53-forum/111960-vibration-stop-what.html)

Oldmactech 05-27-2020 08:45 AM

Vibration at stop. What?
 
My 03 (just turned 100k) vibrates when I’m stopped, foot on the brake, in gear.

Seems to be getting worse. If I release the brake it will roll.

Idle seems high? Solution to that?
Motor mounts?

Ideas please?


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Overboost 05-27-2020 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldmactech (Post 1184780)
My 03 (just turned 100k) vibrates when I’m stopped, foot on the brake, in gear.

Seems to be getting worse. If I release the brake it will roll.

Idle seems high? Solution to that?
Motor mounts?

Ideas please?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Most probably engine mounts. My E53 would vibrate at idle to the point I could hear the sunglass cases rattling in my door panel not to mention visibly watching the steering wheel vibrate. Put a new set of engine mounts in and purrs like a kitten at idle. The odd thing was the old ones didn't look bad at all when I replaced them out but it was definitely the problem. Your idle should be around 700 RPM in gear with A/C on.

EODguy 05-27-2020 10:42 AM

Don't forget the transmission mounts and guibos if you haven't done them before.

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Oldmactech 05-27-2020 10:50 AM

Thanks. Around 750-760 cold startup with A/C on.
Will read RPM again after warmup.


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Oldmactech 05-27-2020 09:00 PM

How big a PIA to swap the mounts? (In a driveway nothing but jacks and stands)


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Overboost 05-27-2020 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldmactech (Post 1184844)
How big a PIA to swap the mounts? (In a driveway nothing but jacks and stands)


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Pretty easy for someone that did a head replacement oldmactech. That would have been much harder. Takes about 2 hours. Just lift your motor with a floor jack and then support the engine with a Harbor Freight engine support bar and lower the subframe 2 inches on the left side. The right side will come out by just removing the engine mount bracket from the side of the block. I had no problems at all on my M54 and the results were nothing short of amazing. :thumbup:

Fifty150hs 05-27-2020 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Overboost (Post 1184848)
Pretty easy for someone that did a head replacement oldmactech. That would have been much harder. Takes about 2 hours. Just lift your motor with a floor jack and then support the engine with a Harbor Freight engine support bar and lower the subframe 2 inches on the left side. The right side will come out by just removing the engine mount bracket from the side of the block. I had no problems at all on my M54 and the results were nothing short of amazing. :thumbup:

I did mine and I didn't have to drop the subframe at all. Had to do some finagling, but was able to get them out and in without too much trouble. Like OB said, they didn't look bad, especially before I pulled them. After I pulled them I put an old one next to the new and the old had collapsed about 1/2". New mounts made a big difference in my vibration. Wasn't the ultimate fix though. That took rebuilding the old belt tensioner. Idle nice and quiet and smoooooth now.

Oldmactech 05-29-2020 06:21 PM

A belt tensioner cased a vibration? Wanna know more.


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Fifty150hs 05-30-2020 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldmactech (Post 1184989)
A belt tensioner cased a vibration? Wanna know more.


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The vibration was slight. It made more noise than vibration. It was a very annoying low rumble. I had pulled the alternator and the tensioner was very stiff and the lower bushing was shot. I looked at the bearings inside at the pivot and they were flattened. So, I replaced the bearings and bought a new tensioner piston, No. 8 in this diagram: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_2190.

After I did that the noise/vibration was gone.


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