E53 4.4i Replaced Alternator Bracket Gasket now the engine spins but wont start
 

Hey all, I have changed out the bad oil seal on my X5 alternator bracket. Now I go to start the car and it spins over but wont start. I think its the immobilizer because I had the battery disconnected for a few days while I was working on it.

Can anyone point me in the right direction to correct this issue?

Thanks in advance

Check your alternator connections.

Attachment 79004

Am few xo member have had same problem recently. EWS sync was the problem.

Yes basically there are 2 connections at the alternator and one is the main lug and one electric wire connection and I know I got those correct. I have ISTA+ is there a way to resync using that software?

Scan it with ISTA+ and see if it gives you an error on the EWS module.

How are people losing their sync on the EWS anyway?

I ask because there was a member who did not plug in the harness all the way and had the same issue you are.

Three in 2020 on xoutpost lost ews sync that I'm aware of


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Make that four.
It turns out that receiving your brand new Foxwell scanner and running directly out to the garage to plug it into your X eager to test EVERYTHING, without first hooking up your battery charger/supply, is a really bad idea if that same X has a more or less depleted battery from the previous days of messing around with installing a couple of oldschool amplifiers. :rolleyes:



It's bad enough having your battery voltage drop below the critical point of getting communication errors between the various modules. But when it happens while your shiny new Foxwell is busy accessing those same modules, all hell breaks loose.
And amidst the multitude of resulting faults and error codes i also had:
2737 - DME: EWS 3.3 anti-tampering protection
27A4 - DME: EWS3.3 interface management engine-immobilizer


It took me half a night -and a couple of INPA sessions to get the car running again. :(

I was wondering if voltage was an issue in these situations. Why I purchased a power supply for ncsexpert sessions.

Side note, what old school amps you put in Freestyler?

I have no doubt that low voltage in one form or another is the root cause in most of these "my-car-has-gone-batsh!t-crazy"-situations.

It would have been a neat design feature if this, for it's time, very sophisticated control & error reporting network had a automatic voltage check added to all error registrations, so the error log would read something like:
Error code XXXX - Transmission is FUBAR -But wait.. Simultaneously a low voltage condition was also registered. So maybe fix whatever dodgy connection you might have or try charging your battery before replacing the transmission. :D



Two matching Denon DCA-800's.
Most who were part of the high-end car stereo craze that went down during the 80's & 90's, will know what those are. :bow:

When you do a full scan you will see half a dozen modules reporting insert voltage error so it's pretty easy to guess it's the actual cause. That said the ews thing is a suck-o-rama situation

^Yes, but that happens anytime the battery dies {or alternator goes). Is it just bad luck to trip the ews in that situation or is it usually due, like freestyler, attempting to read modules or? LoL, my battery is constantly going dead (if it sits for 3+ days) because I haven't deleted ehc2 yet and the battery is 4+ years old. Maybe I should get on that... ;)

I've helped dozens of people with dead batteries issue. 4 so far have mentioned ews and at least two of those were no battery for over a month. It's rare to take out the ews.

If your battery can't hold a charge for week it's long over due for replacement

And yet you think the boss won't notice the "additional" areo e53...[emoji848]

I applaud your risk taking personality [emoji1787]

I hope your electric 4 series and mine can race someday!![emoji6]

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I wholeheartedly agree. I replace every 4 years habitually under normal circumstances. But I did not want to do so before coding out the EHC2. It keeps the truck from fully sleeping I think and it flashes the level selection LEDs permanently.

I've already got an electric X5 and an X6. We can set up a bracket. :thumbup:

I'm afraid to ask what you did that got you your electrics..... I'm even more afraid of what will be the reason for my next one![emoji28][emoji28][emoji28]

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I was playing around with my brand new Foxwell as well when all hell broke loose on my X. It seems to be the common denominator. My EWS is still out. And I can't sink it because I can't keep car above 12 volts. I was also doing a battery register at the time with my Foxwell. DONT DO THAT!!!

Well turns out I had my timing messed up as I had replaced intermediate levers and made a stupid mistake. Needless to stay I retimed but I think I have valve damage so I am in the process of pulling the head. I had low compression on the driver bank. Somebody come drill a hole in my head :dunno:
I have the timing tools but I think I was 180 degrees off.

I helped bring 3 M62tu back from the dead with exchanging a good handful of valves. I spun suspect valves in a drill to pick the straight ones. We had a courple spare heads from a donor motor not terrible work, you'll figure it out. Get a second pair of eyes on the timing. I had almost three danger thing happen: I was doing the 720° turn to tension the chain and I just loosened the cam nuts and left the timing tool attached. Of course the left hand thread nut tightened without me realizing, fortunately my buddy was there in the garage and noticed the intake cam wasn't turning before I turned the crank far enough to break shit.

The way I messed up was that I forgot I had the intake timing clamp on the camshaft and spun the motor by hand using a socket on the harmonic balancer.
It was tight so I saw the clamp on and removed it. Thinking I just tightened the balancer bolt what really happened was the vanos intake gear moved. The car never started up and I realized my error. So now I almost have the head off and want to do a leak down test before actually removing the head.

It has been running rough for a while and I thought it was intermediate levers. I had ordered and installed some different levers from a functioning motor and that seemed to help but still had uneven combustion. If the bottom end is good I will get a donor head and make 1 good one out of 2.

Any thoughts on this? Could the cam shaft be worn? Can I use a caliper to measure cam lift to verify. At least I am becoming an expert on the tear down of this motor.
:rolleyes:

Unless your car was in the range of the bad I.L. it's not likely they were the problem. When the engine can't get the valves into the right place with good levers it's the eccentric shaft that is the problem. That said you should be able to do a compression test to confirm you didn't do any damage to the valve.

I think N62 has a different type of rekuctor wheel (aokid vs plate) I actually distorted the rekuctor wheel when the cam nut self tightened.

If you are having problem on only one bank you should be able to compare eccentric shafts. Also the set points for however the eccentric motors know where they are could be a problem I don't know how the motors know where zero is. I have heard of people replacing the motor/s to solve the problem.

Yes I believe mine was in the range, manufacture date 3-2005. I am planning on doing a leak down test and listen for air escaping to see what gives. I have removed both the intake and exhaust camshafts. I'm determined to get this thing running smoothly again. I am only the second owner and the first took good care of it. It now has 140K miles on it.

http://australiancar.reviews/_pdfs/B...tin-110205.pdf

June 04 to Feb 05 according to the service bulletin.

Somebody on xo just recently posted they were able to get the Valvetronic adjusted but that if the problem returned the eccentric shafts would need to be replaced.

Update, I did a leak down test and all cylinders are good with no loss. Now my thinking is it is either levers, cam, or eccentric shaft. I was thinking of purchasing a used head complete with gears etc and using those parts in hopes of correcting this issue.
Has anyone had to do this? New parts are too expensive for me so I am willing to chance it on hopefully a lower mileage used part.