Subframe Bushing
 

I have had this x5 now for about 4 years and ever since i have owned it there was this "thunk" when putting it into revers or drive or when you accelerate, drove me nuts. Indie shops were quoting me 6 and 700 to do this job so i bought the tool for $75 and got to work.

As far as DIY goes this ones not to bad. The propane torch definitely made the job easier. Having a long wrench or breaker bar really helps. You still get a work out though.

I don't see how you could even do this job with out the tool.

And wow what a difference it made, this SUV feels really good even though it has 211,000 miles on it, I want to drive it all the time now. It's no wonder people keep them and keep them going for so long.

Come January/ February all this work I have been doing over the summer on this thing will all be worth it.

This thing is a tank in the snow, with heated seats :cheers:

Which brand bushings did you go with?

Meyle

They are solid rubber bushing, not like the stock ones

Are they made in thailand? Have any pictures of the packaging?

Stock Bushings
 

Look how blown the stock bushing are, all 4 were like that

You see how the stock bushing are not completely solid

The Meyle ones are solid all the way

I just looked at the box and I got the good ones made in Hamburg Germany.

The Meyle HD bushings aren't solid - they are identical to the OEM ones. Heck, they might even BE the OEM ones.

The Meyle HD bushings DO look solid at a quick glance, since there is a thin rubber section in the centre that means when you look down them, you can't see daylight. This is just a "flashing" left over from casting process.

Do you recommend Meyle or Lemforder?

If the old ones are shot, then either is better than what you have! ;)

I figure it's hard to wrong with anything back there, Meyle HD, Lemforder, PSB etc. - they are all going to last 100,000miles or more (when fitted correctly), so will likely outlast the car.

Which is why so many of us who purchased the tool will only ever use it once... :rolleyes:

I got the Kommen tool and it's such a work of art I haven't been able to part with it - yet. But unless I own multiple E53 cars, I won't be likely to ever use it again... :rofl:

Outlast the car you say huh? I beg to differ... ;)

Sorry to say but your wrong on this, the Meyle ones are solid and I only wish I had a picture to post here before I installed them.

The stock ones have a void on on either side where the Meyle ones are connected all the way around. This is something specific I checked before installing them as I was going to get Polyurethane in a tube and make them solid but I didn't have to

I mean the replacement bushes will outlast the car. Clearly, the factory bushes don't... not that mine were that bad when I replaced them at 220,000kms.

And of course, I'm talking about the I6 cars - all bets are off when you have a V8... :rofl:

Well, I guess your Meyle HD bushes were different from mine. :dunno:

I thought they were solid too, until I took a screwdriver and poked the center section - it went clean through with zero effort. The rubber in the centre was less than 1/64" of an inch thick.

Here's what I got...

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/mMoAA...Mfl/s-l400.jpg https://www.car-parts24.com/media/im...-e34-e32~2.jpg

https://3a663eb0fef48c6d2d60-a88f8eb...4868_x800.webp

PSB Are solid all the way around. Don't need a special tool to install them. Just use your hands to press them in.

And quite affordable compared to other bushings too [emoji106]. That’s where my money is going, probably, unfortunately... this spring if I can limp it along, just started to notice mine moving a bit... and on inspection... their not looking healthy ☹️


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I also need to do mine. Get a clunk at times when going from forward to reverse and vice versa. Think I'll be doing poly as well. Always been afraid to use poly/delrin/etc for fear of harshening the ride on any of my BMW's. Figure I might as well try it on my "weekend" vehicle.

Why are mechanics so intent on overcharging this?
 

I had a similar experience; mechanic quoted $1800 for job, "Well we have to drop the whole rear subframe and that involves two guys and tying up or lift for the full day.."


Tools and bushings cost me about $350CDN and did this in my drive with floor jack and stands in about 2 hours.


explain to me again how this economy works?:angryfire


k

Your time is FREE, mechanics' time for a BMW usually run $100 per hour and up.

And a mechanic will work from book time, not accounting for any shortcuts that they may know. Example, my VSS job was quoted to me anywhere from $2500 at an independent to $8400 at my local BMW dealership, I did the entire job, myself, for just under $600 and I replaced SIGNIFICANTLY MORE than just the VSS.


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missing the point
 

I would gladly pay the mechanic for their time if they were performing efficiently.

I repeat, they wanted a FULL DAY of pay for a job they were going to do in a shop, with all the tools, a lift, and years of experience.:rolleyes:

I did the same job in 2 HOURS in my driveway with hand tools.

That is indefensible no matter how you try to rationalize overhead, experience, training etc.

I know they have mortgages and kids to send to college, but I ain't keen on paying for a Bel-Air mansion and Harvard.

$1800, about $1360USD, is a lot I agree (that's CND not USD I assume). But don't downplay their "overhead, experience, training, and etc." If a mechanic can do a 20 hour job in 10 hours because of his skill, he has earned the right to get paid for 20 hours.

You did the right thing DIY'ing, and DIY is the only way I would own a BMW(s). Book times and msrp parts prices on these things are expensive. Don't blame shops for making a living, you have a choice to choose another shop. It's like getting multiple quotes on a remodel. You have the choice to pay or choose another option.

Do you need a special tool to uninstall the old bushings?2003 BMW X5 E53 M54 engine,253512KM

Special tool
 

Yes, need to extract old bushings. Tool is inexpensive on Amazon, comes in a nice box and the components are sized exactly for these bushings


Ken

You don't have to drop the subframe to do this job. All you have to do is remove the rear wheel and the bushings are right there.

I did mine on the ground with the x5 on jack stands.

What with the tool being needed only once, more or less, anybody who's bought it care to part with theirs?



I'm finding prices from $80 up to $175 between amazon, ebay, ECS, pelican etc. I'm planning to do this job next year sometime so I would be interested in buying the kit off someone who never plans to use it again. That way I wouldn't have to buy anything from China that I only need to use once.

Confucius said that a picture is worth a thousand words, what is a video worth?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRKbIdl3oQI

Thanks for all of this info. I've always dreaded this procedure...until seeing this thread. Did everyone get their PSB bushings from Armstrong Distributor or somewhere else...does color matter or is the only color in-stock the winner? RED of course.

If you have a sawzall you can cut out the steel bushing after removing the rubber center with a hole saw. You must be very careful not to cut into the subframe. Once you slit the metal bushing you can hammer the bushing so that it folds into itself. I find that once you slit a metal bushing you relieve enough of the force holding the bushing in the subframe.

I just bought this tool.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174502460097

Good Idea, I'll keep that in mind. Thank you.2003 BMW X5 E53 M54 engine,253512KM