X5 M62TU Fixing the Remote Oil Filter leaks
 

I have a 2003 X5 4.4 that just started leaking oil from the front. I put some dye in the engine oil and found the leaks are the engine oil, not the PS fluid, and are coming from above the power steering pump. The oil lines from the oil filter canister that are visible from above are all dry. The source of the actual leaks are hidden but I am guessing it is where the oil lines return to the engine. I found a schematic and there are O-rings sealing the lines and they are under pressure so makes sense they would leak after 17 years and lots of engine heat.

Question: Has anyone replaced the lines or O-Rings? Looks like I just need to remove the splash shield and remove the Power Steering pump and then I could have access to the lines and replace the O-Rings. But before I start pulling the power steering, I was curious if anyone else had do this before and if removing the splash shield and PS pump would give me sufficient access or is there more to it?

There is no way to visibly check the ends of these lines to confirm that is the leak. They vanish into the abyss so asking before I start wrenching.

Yes, Multiple posters have replace these lines, o rings, or just the brass O rings at the Banjo couplers. the O rings on the pressure tubes are a common failure point.
LinkS: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...d=FB33-USA-03-
Lubrication system-Oil filter | BMW X5 E53 X5 4.4i M62 USA
2003-E53-BMW-X5_44i&diagId=11_2821

O rings x2 PN 11421702916 23,0X3,0
Pressure hose assy outlet PN 11 42 7 504 295
O rings at block 11 42 1 702 905 14,0X2,0
Brass O rings 07 11 9 963 200 A14X18-AL

Thanks for the links. Very useful. Any comment on my need to remove the PS Pump and splash shield? That should provide access?

I have only played with the 3.0, 4.6, and 4.8 models. In those cases everything gets pulled to gain access to any part, so plan on yes yes and more wrenching

No kidding about pulling everything on the 4.8iS, I swear it feels like I've had to pull the radiator to change a tire...[emoji2959][emoji1787]

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While that seems like a joke.... I have ACTUALLY have to remove the front indicator lights on my BMW bike to do an oil change.... :rolleyes: :rofl:

About to take my front bumper off so that I can get the LH headlight out in order to get to the ABS module. It can probably be done from above but I dont feel like wrestling with the thousand PS, oil and coolant hoses running there. So, yeah....

Alright folks, I'm bringing this one back from the dead since I think I'm about to have to tackle this job. Right after I did the guides and chains too (smdh). I have read of folks with E39s and E38s doing this without removing the lower timing cover, has anyone been able to do the same on an E53? I think pulling the half shaft will provide some working room and obviously removing the motor.mount. So can someone who had actually done this chime in? Thanks.

I’m assuming you are referring to the OP’s question about hidden oil leaks behind the power steering pump? Having just broken my 2002 X5 down to parade rest and changed the motor, I think the “easiest” way to get to the oil lines and triangular flange back there would be to pull the diff out. I know that you can see and access this whole mess with the diff removed. It’s serious ass pain though.

I can’t say however if you can get to this plumbing by removing the left wheel well. I didn’t remove the wheel well, but it could give a nice clear access to the block. I’ve heard that this is difficult, but it’s got to be easier than reinstalling the diff.

If you do pull the diff out, use the Bentley procedures, but you don’t need to pull the left motor mount as Bentley recommends if you slide the top right bolt in before bench pressing the diff into position. The other 3 are much shorter and don’t interfere with the subframe or motor mount. I thought I could fenegal the diff back in after dropping the motor in and I was very wrong. Motor has to come up a couple inches and the subframe has to come down a couple inches.

The triangular flange has 2 o rings, as do the two oil lines going to/from the block at the flange (one each).

Did that O-ring replacement with the engine out and remember thinking that that would be a job from hell to do with the engine in the car. I just spent another two hours under there to insert the spacer in my front drive shaft and if I had to do that O-ring swap, I think I would either lower the sub-frame or pull both radiators and the PS pump. Neither is ideal but lowering the sub-frame at least would allow a view of the offending items.