They are splined bolts, not studs. They are not pressed in. Mine were rusted away like in the picture above. I removed the nuts, popped out the studs with a punch, and replaced them with stainless steel bolts and nuts (and new gaskets).

That's what I would do too. For just about any car. They are priced more out here, but as far as I can tell from whenever I see people posting cars they're looking to buy, the condition of rust-free cars is not fully reflected in the pricing difference.

I grew up on the East Coast (PA and MA) and thought rust was inevitable until I moved out here. I thought it was completely normal to get a full new exhaust system every two years. :D (the steel they used back in those days made it even worse)

And yes, those pictures basically match mine.

Update. The shop did a nice job, and yes it required an acetylene torch and BFH. Not exactly the DIY job you'll do on your back in the driveway. Charged us one hour labor, $125. Totally worth it. I believe they installed new nuts/bolts but will confirm once I get under there again and look.

Definitely. It is worth the additional $1500 shipping cost in my opinion. The downsides to this strategy are:

Buying a car across the country site unseen
Getting a seller to sell it to you in this format, and trust you're not a scammer
Finding a California car with heated options, seats, winter package items
Finding a Cali car whose leather isn't dried up from the sun damage

But, cars out there exist that have been garaged and ordered with options. Just takes some effort and patience.

Glad you got the job taken care of.

After looking at that rusty hardware I think my strategy would have been twist fail the bolt/stud and plan to replace.

My 4.4i is a little different exhaust set up but I had the same rusty hardware on my manifold/exhaust flange connections. All 4 studs broke off during exhaust removal. I used a torch to heat up the manifold and then drive out the studs with a hammer and a long punch (1/2" extension). I was really dreading this task but it sounds worse than it was. The MAP+ torch was a difference maker, propane never got it hot enough.

Plane ticket, food, and gas is usually cheaper than shipping. Of course take a lot more of your time than shipping, but you can at least walk away from the deal if the car is misrepresented.

I flew out to San Jose to get Red. Was an annoying experience at times, but rewarding. Think the total for the trip (2 tickets as I flew a buddy out to help me drive), 1 night in a hotel, food, and gas was somewhere around $700? Would have to go back and check the records.

I know this thread took a bit of a left turn into buying a car from a dry state...But I whole heartedly agree. I look at 12 cars a year in MA, NH, RI & CT( I should really stop), and 11 are rusted out.

15-20 yr old BMW's in New England/rust belt are at least as expensive - sometimes more - than a BMW from a dry state. I think this represents a mis-pricing

I did just find an '06 325ci 'vert w/110k mi in RI in white/tan with a mint, rust -free exterior & top. It was purchased in Florida and spent most of its life down there...in a garage apparently. It has trans and engine problems, so I picked it up for $1k.

I bought my 6-speed ZHP 'vert in Florida on Ebay a couple of years ago for $6k Don't think the seller knew what a ZHP was..or cared...I won auction, flew down to FL w/in 3 days, inspected/drove it, and then decided to pay for it. I shipped it home..