AWR-fix: hub restoration
 

In the process of destructive removal of a rusted in axle, managed to damage the hub at the wheel center which was corrected on a lathe.

Unfortunately that didn't remove the complete layer of rust through every mm of every spline tooth.

No way I was getting that on the new axle!

So I spent half an hour with a file trying to get enough rust off the teeth to get it on the axle and could maybe get it half way on.

So per usual; made a tool

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...941179ce97.jpg

I cut the end off the old axle, ground off about .001" from most of the splines leaving the full height for just about 3/8".

Now I had a scraping tool to carve out the rust.

Pounded though about 20 times with a little penetrating oil, then pinched just a bit of steel wool in about 5 teeth at a time.

Once done with that, I could poke though with my thumb.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0Z532ODWDWfQ6

The album is the link above.

The hub will no go on and off effortlessly! (I always make sure the hub will go on and off with virtually zero effort before I press the hub back into the bearing).

AWR-fix: hub restoration
 

Nice! I like “making tools”. I had to make one when I remodeled a bathroom in one of my homes. I was facing some shot cast iron drain threads. They wanted to bust out the concrete and replace plumbing. To hell with that! I came up with a coupler, that had an attachment to gain leverage. I forced it upon the line, and rethreaded the old cast iron lines. No leaks to this day.

Best feeling for a diy’er! I am amazed at your MacGyver abilities Mr. Wynn.

[emoji106][emoji106] If memory serves me, it’s actually “The Cleaner”, right?

AWR-fix: hub restoration
 

I've been known as "the cleaner"

I've made threading taps and dies frequently out of pipe nipples and couplers to fix a plumbing connection into a wall that typically broke off while doing a remodel.

(For a die: when room permits use a "tee" and for a tap, use a 3-4" nipple. On one side cut flutes but not all the way through; my first few times I just cut notches through the end of the pipe, but the pipe will collapse, so now I use angle grinder and cut flutes only 3/32" or so deep.

On the other side, cut four notches that you can use with a big screwdriver etc. as a handle to turn it.

Most recently when adding a bathroom in my dad's basement: had to connect to a lead pipe going into a concrete floor.

I cut the pipe off about 1.5" from the floor and made a threading die from a 1-1/2" "tee". Cut threads and screwed on a PVC "tee" so in could connect the new sink and shower.

During the destructive removal of the axle above I messed up the threads pretty good for the lugs, so I turned one of the lug bolts into a tap to clean the threads, a trick I've used dozens of times including my first repair on my e53; PO replaced the driver's seat and cross threaded one of the bolts it was not even close to tight. When I removed it I discovered the cross thread and no way I could get the bolt to start on the proper course until I cut the sides into tap flutes.

A minute of careful trials I found the original thread course and cleaned out the threads and bolted it down with the same bolt that was cross threaded basically making a giant self tapping screw.

Oh great, now our car threads are getting spam!! Hey Hasee, go back to your cave in pakistan and find another place to troll please!! Mods any way of monitoring this and making sure it doesn't dilute our little club?

Done. :kungfu:

Boom
 

BOOM! GONE! Thank you...