door carrier handle carrier OEM or not?
 

ok , not posted for ages due to personal reasons, but the x5 never ceases to throw things at me, drivers side door handle carrier went yesterday , changed both sides hmmm 6 years ago so that is pants especially as i bought the OEM...
this time bought febi replacement so will see how that fares, and am even thinking of buying the dead cheopo aftermarket....for the passenger side...

How bad can they be? i mean 6 years is poor life expectancy for the door handle....especially as i dont use the car eveyday! anyone had an experience with the much cheaper aftermarkets?hasnt bmw acknowledged to poor design.... and use of what seems to be a brittle alloy that just cracks or has bits falling off it. Am in a right mind to kick up a stink, but i guess they will just say wear and tear consumable , like a battery or tire!

door carrier handle carrier OEM or not?
 

Read my awr-fix on the DHC. Most can be fixed with a single steel zip tie. (a pack costs maybe $5 so 17¢ each).

The non OEM often have minor fitment problems nothing that a few seconds can't fix but be careful of the spring if not the right size will scrape on the window. (also easy Dremel fix)

When using a knock off, move over the cable if it's in good shape. The knock off cables are not great.

Also: if you live in a cold climate, the cable can freeze and a single pull can break the DHC on day one. It's absolutely essential that you don't yank if it's frozen.

In my DLA repair thread I do an experiment where I exactly reproduce the freeze that locks up the DLA that will break the DHC if you pull hard.

Much appreciate reply, got the febi replacement just wondering to cut the tab off or not? Ashamed to say i am.not gonna do this diy in case
I hit issues...either way got the old dhcs but don't have the little bits that flaked off...cable tie fix still ok?
Ps wifes e46 been in out of all four door so many times that i can do it with my eyes shut...but wont touch thec5

IN Russia we have some people making strong copies of the carriers using cast iron or steel (since we pretty much live in North Pope), its reinforced with double the thickness on the fragile parts of the door handle and a more durable cable.

Aswell as there are some people who adopt a handle door opener sensors, so when you touch the handle from the inside with your finger the door pops out automatically, with an installation of the suction mechanism like on the OLD mercedeses S class where the door closes itself when you bring it closer to the latch mechanism

. Unfortunatelly on the our X5s It is only equipped on the Rear trunk. (With those fragile door Carrier Handles that would be an amazing addition)

To avoid the problem with the cold temperature people usually add WEBASTO & Pandora Start up Alarm that can set a temperature in your cabin upon auto start. That way the doors will not be cold upon entering the car if parked outisde.

YET TO AVOID ALL THESE PROBLEMS WITH THE X5 CARRIESR HANDLES PEOPLE SIMPLY DONT UNDERSTAND THAT THESE DOORS ARE SPECIALLY DESIGNED & MADE TO BE OPENED WITH YOUR HAND SLIDING FROM BENEATH THE HANDLE & SLIGHTLY TAPPING IT UPWARDS. (NOT LIKE EVERYONE IS DOING IT ON THE REGULAR CAR WHERE THEY JUST PULL THE HANDLE AS OF THEY ARE OPENING THE FRIDGE)

IF YOU FOLLOW THIS SIMPLE RULE - YOU WILL NEVER HAVE TO DEAL WITH THIS PROBLEM EVER AGAIN 'unless living in constant winter' (AND EDUCATE EVERYONE WHO IS ENTERING YOUR CAR - OR OPEN THE DOOR FOR THEM)

I always fight with kids for pulling on handles.....i will probably add zip tie too on new one and see,,thanks for reply

I add the zip tie to even new DHC in case of failure it'll still work

Mr Andrewwynn THANKS AGAIN, i dug out some printouts i had from years back must of got em off xoutpost too, chap had used wire instead of a cable tie and actually drilled though 2 parts of the dhc (basically in area where the the cable tie would sit ) and passed the wire through there and around same area the cable tie would pass...I have no issues trying but gonna have a hard time convincing a garage to install a diy fixed dhc....i guess though no skin off their nose, either way they get paid for the installation...if it lasts well they get one less customer returning.....

I guess issue arising over time may also have something to with the way you open the door, no tugging, just a gentle lift till it click open, be interesting to know how other x5 owners have got on....i mean how often have they had to replace fix the dhc

excellent write up :thumbup:only issue i have is probably getting a metal cable tie wrapped twice.....

You have to expand the clip for the ball to move enough to make room I've done it a few times now it's not difficult just if the first attempt or two fails diagonal cut it off and start over. It took me a few tries to figure out that a single pass wouldn't hold tight enough

If you ever open a door for any reason install the zip tie I think 3/8 of ours are rebuilt now this method. If you install before it breaks it may not prevent the break but when it breaks the door handle still works. (you may be able to tell you have to pull farther up)

i got two old dhc to play with, gonna dishwasher em and then see if i can get it done, either metal zip ties or wire or even plastic ones that as i mentioned before hopefully if cracked due to heat wont fall off and cause any jam in there....

There is so much leverage at that joint the nylon will squish like Play-Doh if it were to break from heat brittle. (which usually only happens if exposed to UV so that won't happen inside a door)

Andrew do i need the bit that fell off in order to make an effective repair?, as am planning on patching up old ones in case passenger side up front goes too......father in law who was bored today took car to a panel beater garage, guy had it all off and on in 30mins....and fitted the new febi dhc....so will be using him again for sure

Bit that fell off? I presume you mean the back side of the hinge around the pin: negative. It probably doesn't hurt to have it. On two of my repairs the hinge only cracked, I caught it before it broke and of course I left the part and wrapped the steel zip tie around it.

I might have a video of what happens if you only used a nylon zip or only one wrap of steel: the hinge pulls open at least 1mm each operation so I wouldn't trust it long term. With the two steel wraps no motion at all it's a solid fix.

I haven't ever had to replace one done with the steel repair (some are going on 3-4 years now). I forget but I think I put a shim under the steel to snug it tight.

ok sir, will make note....i'll find a way now i know...thanks again....

Hello to all sorry to revive this but suffice to say that nearly 3.5 years on from replacing last replacement with e febi branded carrier handle, same thing....pull and no joy...

I am plucking up the courage to do the cable fix and maybe even try this russian guys fix, he basically drilled a whole through old carrier and passed heavy gauge wire through to do job cable tie would

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiTjnICYUrM

One reservation, the larger of the 2 screws one in photo, that goes into the carrier M5X20-KA-8.8, should it be a tight fit into the actual door carrier mechanism or does it simple pass through and 'grab' onto the housing of the keylock cover on the outer side of the door?

Pass through if you mean the long Allen head screw that holds the back of the DHC though the door to the external part that's the key cylinder on the driver side.

If you want a guide in English:.

AWR-fix: Door Handle Carrier Repair: 28¢
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

You can post questions there when underway. I usually see the posts within minutes.

I've done this repair half a dozen times reworking to the final version in the thread above. If you can't get metal cable ties I used 16ga steel wire the first couple repairs. It needs a shim under the wrap either way and either way is quite literally better than new (non brittle weak link). Brand new will not be stronger.

Andrew yes exactly what meant, and since post.found pics to verify my suspicion ...never taken it apart so.didnt know where how allen key bolt secured carrier...pic shows it screws through carrirer handle and into the outer side into the door lock casing as such...the shim idea great fine...just curious though that it will actally allow movement of the mechanism as the shim n wire or wire tie take place of broken bit of carrier that didnt acutally have a really tight fit onto the rod ....you reckom best bet i order a new part? Or tie fix removed broken carrier i have floating about..cheers again for reply

Ps how much clearance is needed , i mean repair may protrude by how much from.surface of carrier before ot snags or brushes again inner door workings?

The shim opposite side of the broken part. There's room for the wrap and the shim used to tighten it up.

Ok yes think seen pics of screws used as shims...basically where broken part is missing and wire or cable tie wraps over the shim and the metal shaft. Im quite liking the drill n use heavy duty wire but worried protruding twisted segment will snag scrape or stop you seating the carrier properly..thats why i wanted to get an idea of clearance allowance either on side mechanism is broke or the other side

Nothing at all in the way with the wire wrap or cable tie method.

Great i'll patch up old carrier n post pic for your review if thats ok...again thanks for reply...max protrusion due to repair wont be more than 5mm, n i will chop.off that nib as indicated by many has no use at all.

On the side where space is tight there's no extra volume. On the other side the fix sticks out a bit but there's plenty of room to work.

Do you have steel cable tie? If using wire I can prob find pictures of my first repair using 16 ga steel wire.

Yup managed to get steel zip ties but not sure can double wrap...and shim trick i may use and wedge in the space left by missing part that broke off correct? Anyhow crazy day midnite here fellas , lights out for me but cheers for feedback

door carrier handle carrier OEM or not?
 

Don't put anything in place of broken missing part. The wedge/shim goes on the other side. Steel zip tie needs minor tweak to double wrap. Single wrap might work ok.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0S5p3ich2Nfrc

Look at the photo album turn on captions the first couple pictures itt shows the modification needed to double wrap the steel zip tie.

It also shows step by step how to fix.. of course left vs. right side is mirror image.

Dear sir that is MAGIC! pictures do wonders rather than me bleat on with words....my questioning of where shim goes how to double wrap steel tie...all in pics great....my only wonder is if you prefer the drilling option and threading wire through and around the rod to keep in place, rather than cable tie...gonna see if i can do both but reckon space will be limited...here are pics of the drill tactic as you can see the wire is twisted to secure it after it is threaded through drill hole location (in green) and was wondering here about clearances you see? the twisted bit does poke out a bit from actual surface of carrier on one side...ps pic 2 offending nib is highlighted blue that can be chopped off yes?

Cable tie method way better.

I don't remember having to drill holes for the wire method thought I just threaded through like the cable tie.

door carrier handle carrier OEM or not?
 

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0ec6...yjxXjf-Fi6qk_A

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...08697fbaba.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f9eecdce2f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c10f163990.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e804523054.jpg

Proper Wire method. No twisting or drilling needed.

On eBay, I see door carrier made in Taiwan (probably better than made in China) being listed for $24.

My door carrier was replaced using BMW part a few years ago ($110), so far so good.

But the next time (hopefully not), will try the "made in Taiwan" item.

ok fair point..
Anythin non eu gets loads of taxes thrown on ot for us...found german made carrier,so they say it is from latvia...but still gone stick in fixed old o e

Some of the after market carriers are pretty good, even having better cables than the original. I think just stick to mid priced aftermarket ones and avoid the really cheap ones.

Most aftermarket door carriers on eBay are Chinese.

This one is the exception, made in Taiwan.
If anyone tries this Taiwanese thingy, please report back.
At $22, it is hard to lose...

PS: It is mind-boggling to me how one can produce something like this, ship 1/2 way across the world, sell it for $22, incl. free shipping, how do they
even make money?

---

lose money on every transaction. How do they make money? volume!

that is from a Saturday Night Live skit from the First Midwest that just makes change.


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Andrew hi, good to put a voice to a brain/master of e53 diy fixes via the stuff you uploaded, ok right steel cable ties I was able to tweak as per you post to allow double loop so double strength, all good so far, now the self destruct tab as you call it highlighted in light blue , the mechansim that in you pics you remove altogether we confident it doesn't affect either the central locking or for example locking car direct via the door lock with key physically? Tad confused as in other posts i swear I saw that the little nib pointed to by magenta arrow was what has been chopped off by some....and if that is the case anyone here had any negative effects on open lock close doors?

I think that the US will take a leaf out of the book out of the EU's handling of chinese imports (if Donald gets in again),EU whack a hefty tax on them so much so that not worth you going for chinese or anything non EU, protectionsim ?stiffling of free trade competition, it cuts both ways depending in how you see it....anyhow as a backup in case my repaired one(still ongoing) doesn't cut it, found a german made one from latvia exempt from the taxation....

door carrier handle carrier OEM or not?
 

I think the tab is some form of mechanism to keep the door handle from opening itself from side impact. On my cars I found nothing it interacted with just that if moved it could stay that way when cold outside so I took them off.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0087085d7f.jpg

This is the nub that causes the problem.

When I was concerned that removing the whole thing could cause a problem eg DLA have a sensor that looks for it, I used to cut that off. When I determined nothing in the latching/locking mechanism has any way to use it I just started removing the whole thing.

On closer examination it appears that mechanism blocks the handle from lifting if there is rapid sideways acceleration eg side impact. I think the designers were concerned the mass of the door handle could unlatch the door from a side impact or roll over.

The inside and outside door handles are not active when the door is locked so it’s a moot point for anybody that drives with their door locked.

The e70 has a completely different design and I've never seen a how to DIY on replacing yet so I suspect the MTBF is much longer!

Ok Andrew thanks, reading most posts seems that self destruct mechanism is an issue as it freezes in place causing issue...? i got 0 chance of 0 degree temps out here, so wondering whether or not to remove, ok did your double steel zip tie fix took me 5 goes to get it right...as a shim i used a steel zip tie folded over a few times....see purple arrow is where I stuck under and also over instead of using a plastic zip tie as you did, so in the process I have may 4-5mm protrusion from the surface where i used shim,reckon I will have it snag or intefer anywhere? ..operation by hand there is no slack or anything, and yet to put in car anyway as is a first time for me...again thanks for all tips...an superb tips on how to double tie those steel zip ties and also the shim tactic all great

door carrier handle carrier OEM or not?
 

The self destruct tab should not be an issue for you. Safe to leave alone.

I can't tell which side the protrusion is in your photo. Maybe because too close. If you copied me it's a non issue. The close tolerance is on the other side.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6031f0fccb.jpg

This is the tight side.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b3834ad407.jpg

This is the non tight side.

I think you got it right and made it literally stronger than new.

Put some lubrication on the gear.

I think a primary cause of breakage is attempting to open a locked door.

I haven't used e53 in a while but I seem to recall a locked door the DLA locks the motion of the outer door handle rather than the century old tried and true method of "dry fire" that just detaches the handle and does nothing.

If I remember correctly, teach your family & friends to wait until you unlock before pulling the handle. (It literally won't matter on the fixed one that is nearly unbreakable).

(Out of ≈ 20 repairs over helped on only 1 broke somewhere besides that hinge break).

Of the 8 doors on our e53s I repaired 5 I think of the DHC.

I also rebuilt 3-4 of the DLA when the motors wore out saving over $200@.

Yup followed your guide so instead of bits of plastic zip ties as shim, I used a steel one folded over a 4 times or so, but also as well as squeezing under the repair steel zip tie i folded over it too creating the extra 3-4mm protrusion, basically what you see highlighted by arrow is the shim and it pops out max 5mm from surface of the carrier...just didn't want any surprises to find it would snag come install time thats why all the questions on clearance

That's the plenty of space side. Should fit just fine. The extra metal for shim is a fine solution. Did you just use what you cut off from the extra? I should update my repair guide to include that idea.

Yeah that Andrewwynn sure is a genius! Hilarious ;)

Good to get noticed. I'll put my actual problem solving skills 1 on 1 any time.

No exactly sure what your problem is with helping others out but you do you. Anti-helpb that is great for internet help forum.

Must suck to harbor that kind of hate for no reason. Good luck with that.

FYI yes, literally genius.

@Andrew Hi, great so space wise should be ok, as for the the metal shim, initially yes was from some left over shim, but again even the shim took some attempts, so in the end it was some metal from some extra long st.steel ties I had, that I cut about 10cm off and got going with shim process....

Again please stay on gaurd as have a slight thing nagging me alot now which may mean i have to undo my whole fix and start over

It's important to get the mini gears in correct sync.


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Exactly dunno if i have done that, and am scanning images / vids of movement now of carriers on sale on the web if they tally with way mine is ....don't have a new one to hand to see compare, and the old one i repaired off course didn't notice just plugged back in that arm with teeth into the gears after lubing it up and saw it had movement and thought that's it....here are the pics but no idea if one can tell if it is ok or not?....only if i compare with a new part or old decommissioned one..so am sorting of pulling my hair out now as this will force me to go get a new one.... here are the pics sideways one is of carrier as it in resting position (highlighted in yellow where the door handle bolt goes), and other image is as far out as it goes (simulating handle pull-i wedged a little whit bit in to keep it out)

Yup think i have made a pigs ear of this by ignoring that arm gear teeth situtation, looking at ones on sale first 2 images, arm needs to be in a different position...plus i compare the cable length showing highlighted in circle on mine, to ones on sale and i have too much on show, telling my arm is in wrong place ....thing is when i do undo all my work :( then difficult to tell where the right place is for that arm with teeth only via photos....so may end up having to buy a new one....or basically do i position the arm fully up in my case and accompanying cable to the final position whereby i have on show as little as possible of the cable so to speak, and i'm good? very frustrating had my older carriers somewhere but cannot find em, and ok not the end of the world to buy a new one but sort of defeats having to fix this one

bahhhh 5:38 shows the open close situation i am way out with what I did, now do i sit here now all night and give it another go? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ge7-HJ0DUz0 BMW X5 Door Handle Carrier Removal and Installation DIY E53

Not mine. If the doors are locked, the handles still move through their full motion - they simply door not open the door. They "dry fire" as you put it.

You can pull the axle out vs. redo the steel strap but it's not easy. Ask me how I know.

I think due to exactly three same reason.

You have practice with the strap now it'll probably be easier to just redo it.

That said if the axle just taps out don't have much to lose I forget if there's any retention besides friction.

door carrier handle carrier OEM or not?
 

We had 01 models I wonder when they changed that. Good to know before e70 however you are also rhd and not us market so I would be curious.

I was shocked that ours had the blocking version of the DLA.

Same part number as newer models usually if they revise something there will be a new number and supercede. Well good for you to have that. I would have family yank the handle before unlocking and I'd have to have them release the handle and re-trigger the unlock.

Hahahah I want to cry and laugh at the same time, undid toils of my afternoon and used a plastic zip tie as a test now, and I think judging by vids and photos I have put the arm where it is supposed to be , now in this rested position I am only seeing what this fella in pic is seeing in terms of cable during install of a new carrier (hope this cable length is not something brand specific though cos I will surely tear my hair out) anyhow by doing this altering the arm position, i am getting probably what is the correct full motion of the mechanism that will unlock the door....really tempted to go buy another one in case on D day I have messed up. I will proceed to the metal zip tie another time, as trying to get that spring in and under has decimated and bloodied my fingers! thanks again for all help...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6ebab39e78.jpg
This shows the exact tooth sync.

Plastic tie alone won't hold. It works as a backup to get a working spongy release (I used to put around new installs as a backup for when hub breaks but it'll be spongy). The force on that joint is insane

Hey Andrew hi again , cheers for photo browsed over that my bad as was in a hurry to see your tie fix tactic, I think I have it in right place if my interpretation of your pic is correct i.e that the arrows point to where those 'teeth' sink in and make contact ...(further down cos you lubed it all up cant see final result but im pretty confident its like i think it is) PS yup indeed the zip tie is not pulling it together fully, but was for test purposes anyhow ....thanks again...

Your pic is correct.

@Andrewwynn What trouble shooting skills?? You just reposted information from an old post of mine telling you that you were wrong about the counterweight and describing my theory on how it works, almost copying what I said word for word and now saying that it is your theory. Yikes!

You get a compliment and it goes straight to your head and you think you are some kind of expert.

Right ok I did undid my steel cable tie fix 3 more times since last posting and for some reason for the life of me xoutpost wouldn't allow me to logon! anyway ended up with a different tactic, anyone recall taking off the front cover of pc to reveal those cut-push out plates that when removed make space for a cd-rom or extra harddrive etc? anyhow used a 1cm/1cm approx part of this part as a shim under tie, and 2 other bits of st.steel cable tie to "cradle" this shim and prevent i it even slipping out... am a tad worried though that extra 3-4mm it add as a shim to the carrier will prevent carrier from fitting?2nd pic with arrows shows the st.steel ties bent on either side of the fatter shim, 3rd shows these bits now folded down and even if folded will prevent slippage off the shim off, last 2 are of other posts and am hoping if last 2 shims were all good and didn't tamper install of carrier then so should my fix. Its just that I haven't taken off x5 door card to see how that side with the shim will sit on the inner side of the door..or whether it has some clearance or actually hugs surface of door panel so to speak...anyway knew my old gateway 2000 would come in handy

For what its worth if pics and toiling was your doing respect , thanks

6 hours! But took it out and in 3 times...the cable socket on repaired old carrier just kept popping out of joint! So used spare cable from oem carrier .much tighter fit but door wouldnt open. Finally cable from broken i removed worked fine...vapour barrier tears courtesy of prior mechanic fixes, i secured up with aluminum adhesive tape....and whilst in the guts of door replaced window clip and did a st.steel zip tie re enforce as i think the sliding plates were on the way out....totally shattered as had stress.of odd weather threatening whole operation. Next time i will have a new one handy and sure that up with a cable tie...darn cable totally threw me..all goodvthough in the end...i will buy a carrier for front passenger side now. Ps heat undid the top plastic inner part of door from the door card....so had to go get some epoxy resin to sure that up too...glue gun may have worked but didnt use...

If the cable is too short for whatever reason, including the cable casing jumping out of holder, the door latch won't reset after closing and door won't open. Good call on getting a new carrier.

no idea what issue was, cos compared all cables n they had identical length, so ended up using cable out of existing broke carrier...and worked. Yup gonna get a new one for the passenger side, cos during the fix of an old broken one got a tad lost on where the teeth needed to be lined up for the arm to correctly n fully pull up the cable with ball socket...in the end all good though...still gonna strengthen new one though...gonna need the epoxy resin am sure inner plastics will have come undone unless any of you fellas know if a glue gun would work instead....

Well gonna order another one for the front passenger side to avoid any unexpected hiccups at next attempt, in case I can't fix one in place in time or it's too broke, and make sure I have got enough epoxy resin for those plastic bits that will just come off as per photo(darn sun fries everything out here)...red arrow points to plastic trim that just separated from the cardboard when i pried off the door panel...and other pic is my st.steel zip tie pass for my clunky window..seems to have sorted it , in conjunction with a new clip that secured the window to the carrier. Ok well thanks to all the great posts and photos and my fear of shim catching against inards of door were unfounded....only thing i may try next time as seems cleaner is use the tie as per the photo and not try to stuff the raised part of tie it all the way down into space near the spring....

Shucks, I just did DHC fix last night on my '05 3.0i... I already had those SS zip ties, but didn't think to add that to a new carrier... doh.


BTW, the carrier I took out was a URO brand that somebody else already replaced, and they included a Chinese knock-off with the purchase of the car. I binned the China one, and ordered a Febi. Turns out when I got the URO out, the axle pin had slid out about a half inch. But even when tapped back in place, the opening action was very stiff and notchy; so something's still not right with that carrier.


Interestingly, the Febi carrier is *EXACTLY* the same as the URO, just with different laser markings.


I've done these fixes on other E53s I've had in the past, but this one really sucked. First, the vapor barrier was shredded and taped back together with duct tape... I trashed it and ordered a new one. Next, when I was putting the lock cylinder back in (driver's door handle of course), the mechanism petals didn't align and as I pushed in the the whole lock assembly fell apart into the door! Apparently the little roll pin keeper was pounded in all the way and is not keeping the collar in place! That was a real pain to get back together, even with YouTube videos. Lastly, my door panel has also been separated from the top plastic rail...just like omodos' did above.


What adhesive/epoxy do you recommend to re-attach this piece to the door card?

Hi i ordered a chinese one as backup for the passenger side thats on the way out...just in case dont have time to zip tie fix the one i remove...right the epoxy i used to sort the undone inner plastics was 2
part syringe Job pattex brand but am sure there are other brands your end ...life saver really but added more time to repair overall...https://www.pattex-adhesives.com.au/...x-syringe.html

Thanks for that! Yes I have some similar in the shop, just wasn't sure if there are any considerations for compatibility with the existing glues that will remain (no way I'm going to try and remove the old yellow glue!).

old glue right, blunt butterknife to it and took off some of the composite cardboard type material off the door card too..this gave me ability to add maybe 1 2mm thickness of glue to bond two surfaces rather than leave existing yellowing glue on it..that old glue just totally separated from the plastic due to heat i guess...it all remained on door card..literally like card compressed paper fibres you pull at old glue and tears off...let me know if not removing any glue works out and allows epoxy to do job

Ps i scraped eased tore off maybe 70% of the existing glue leaving those round protrusions of glue you see, that fit into the holes on the plastic lining where you see during bmw production the glue oozed out of holes...that way you are sure you line up plastic innards where they should be...if you wanna be real.pro sand down old glue but will take time...j reckon it gives better key and bit to have door card-glue-plastic than old glue-new glue-plastic

Thanks, all my old glue remained on the door card as well... Plastic is clean! I'll try to remove some, but yes, it does provide some nice indexing/alignment.

These broken door handle carrier/window regulator jobs can sure get out of hand!!!

Yup i was dreading taking door card off but great vids and 8 year old daughter came in handy! And yup whilst in there did the window clip replacement...and zip tied as per images....sure delayed things