When I did mine I bought 25’ of nicop, a six pack of 10mm flare ends and a couple 12mm.

All the parts and tools cost me less than the one premade 12mm ends pipe.

Take note: some of the 10 and 12mm ends will have S.A.E. sizes for the nut apparently to be compatible with flare tools typically used on brake lines (very weird like the mix match tire size).

Presumably only one pipe actually burst but good chance the other one is “made of rust” and should be replaced but you could probably do one at a time to get the system bled. When you replace the second one you should not need to do the full abs block bleed procedure as long as you bleed the last one quickly before air works its way up to the abs block.

I didn’t need to bleed my abs block when I replaced both my rear lines.

The best way to prevent brake fluid from draining out while you replace the steel pipes with ni-copper or ? is to depress the brake pedal about halfway with a stick or other wedged between seat and pedal.

That way you don’t lose all your fluid, and you likely won’t introduce air into the ABS pump.

This is discussed elsewhere on the forums, please have a search.

That makes perfect sense when your pipe already busted might as well push the full way down. that will close off the path to the master like holding thumb on top of a straw. Good call.

- Pushing the brake pedal all the way down has its own risk (small risk) of bringing the rough spot(s) on the piston, causing damage to the master cylinder seals.

- This is why the gurus recommend, during routine brake bleeding, place a piece of wood underneath the brake pedal to avoid excessive pedal travel.

- As mentioned in the DIY I posted above, pushing the brake pedal halfway down is enough to stop loss of brake fluid.

That’s a very good point about all the way down. I think I had the same issue with my brake caliper recently.